Need Help! I want the fastest Stock block N/A LT1 M6
07-14-2008, 10:07 AM
#1
Need Help! I want the fastest Stock block N/A LT1 M6 Ok Guys and gals I need your help!!!!! I recently bought a 96 Formula WS6 hardtop M6 wit 27,000 miles on it.
Well Im selling a couple race snowmobiles to build up this car. As of now all there is done to the car is a B&B triflow cat cack on it.
I want to build the fastest possible Street car on the stock block N/A.
Whats the best combo's such as heads,intakes,porting, cams,rockers,springs,exhaust,,ignition,suspension, rear ends/gears etc, etc,etc,.
Now this car dosnt have to be a friendly driver to the average guy but I would like to be able to drive it to work and the track or cruising, I dont care about gas milage. I just want the fastest possible street car that retains good handling.
Any input or sugestions you can give would be great! I have owned LT1s and LS1s b4 but prefer the Lt1 cars better, for what ever reason. So that is why im building this one up!. I still want to smoke the average heads and cam package LS1.
Thanks!
AChotrod
Well Im selling a couple race snowmobiles to build up this car. As of now all there is done to the car is a B&B triflow cat cack on it.
I want to build the fastest possible Street car on the stock block N/A.
Whats the best combo's such as heads,intakes,porting, cams,rockers,springs,exhaust,,ignition,suspension, rear ends/gears etc, etc,etc,.
Now this car dosnt have to be a friendly driver to the average guy but I would like to be able to drive it to work and the track or cruising, I dont care about gas milage. I just want the fastest possible street car that retains good handling.
Any input or sugestions you can give would be great! I have owned LT1s and LS1s b4 but prefer the Lt1 cars better, for what ever reason. So that is why im building this one up!. I still want to smoke the average heads and cam package LS1.
Thanks!
AChotrod
07-14-2008, 12:12 PM
#3
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You can start here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/750499-fastest-lt1-s-ls1tech-com.html
Read thru the sigs and then start asking questions.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/750499-fastest-lt1-s-ls1tech-com.html
Read thru the sigs and then start asking questions.
07-14-2008, 12:59 PM
#4
yes I read through most of that and I know alot about the cars. That just says whats done and how fast.
What I want to know is what works best, flows the most power how streetable are these parts,Are Lt1 stock or aftermarket heads worth messing with, or should I find a set of LT4s and Intake and go from there. What valve trains have you guys had the most luck with etc. Whats the hottest streetable cam etc.
Looking at the new Edelbrock LT4 Intake and heads. Whats your opion on them is there something better with more potential like the AFRs, patriot, trick flow heads etc.? Should I get bare heads and build them or buy complete?
What I want to know is what works best, flows the most power how streetable are these parts,Are Lt1 stock or aftermarket heads worth messing with, or should I find a set of LT4s and Intake and go from there. What valve trains have you guys had the most luck with etc. Whats the hottest streetable cam etc.
Looking at the new Edelbrock LT4 Intake and heads. Whats your opion on them is there something better with more potential like the AFRs, patriot, trick flow heads etc.? Should I get bare heads and build them or buy complete?
07-14-2008, 03:20 PM
#6
So when the car is retired from the road and becomes an all out drag car would the LT4 heads/intake be worth it. Im not afaid to spend some extra coin if its worth it down the road.
I just want the best options availble and not worry about having to do things/ buy parts twice.
Any info is appreciated.
07-14-2008, 05:01 PM
#7
The ported lt4 setup would be good or you could also do some ported aftermarket heads and have them shaved to get the compression back up! Also for the best gains go with a custom grind cam. Check with Advanced inductions I believe they are a sponsor on here for advice.
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07-14-2008, 05:07 PM
#8
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converted single plane intake manifold, AFR 220's (or comparable) worked over by someone other then AFR, a big solid roller camshaft, shaft mount rockers, $$$$ into the rotating assembly and valvetrain to be able to sustain the rpm's you are gonna need to spin it, stand alone engine management (FAST/BS3/Accel DFI etc.), good oiling and cooling system. should ditch the opti and go to a belt driven distributor!
converted GEN1 SBC heads would be another route to take...options are endless there!
built T56.
probably a twin disk clutch.
9"!
lots of $$ in suspension and chassis.
lightweight wheels.
lots and lots of time dialing it all in at the track, tuning the engine management and suspension!
remove alot of weight from it.
and alot of money to do it all
oh and there is no aftermarket block based on an LT1, stock blocks are all you have to work with (LT1 or LT4)!
converted GEN1 SBC heads would be another route to take...options are endless there!
built T56.
probably a twin disk clutch.
9"!
lots of $$ in suspension and chassis.
lightweight wheels.
lots and lots of time dialing it all in at the track, tuning the engine management and suspension!
remove alot of weight from it.
and alot of money to do it all
oh and there is no aftermarket block based on an LT1, stock blocks are all you have to work with (LT1 or LT4)!
07-14-2008, 05:32 PM
#10
Advanced Induction ported gm heads. No need for aftermarket ot LT4. If they can take a 3400lbs+ car into the 9s NA on an 383 LT1 turning 7-7200rpms why on earth would you need any more head on a stock shortblock?
The stock shortblock is going to limit you rpm wise so there will be little opportunity to make it "wild" Mine is mellow enough to hand the keys to anyone or tow a small boat around. Mine is all outdated stuff from them too.
The stock shortblock is going to limit you rpm wise so there will be little opportunity to make it "wild" Mine is mellow enough to hand the keys to anyone or tow a small boat around. Mine is all outdated stuff from them too.
07-14-2008, 05:34 PM
#11
Well I should have about 5500-6 grand to put into the motor. Already have a torque arm,control arms, panhard bars, Suframes,and Strut tower brace on the way. Can you buy a built trans then send in your core to save down time? This is my DD right now.
What kinda of tuning stuff is availible for tuning at the track besides messing with the suspension tires etc.
What kinda of tuning stuff is availible for tuning at the track besides messing with the suspension tires etc.
07-14-2008, 09:32 PM
#13
Advanced Induction ported gm heads. No need for aftermarket ot LT4. If they can take a 3400lbs+ car into the 9s NA on an 383 LT1 turning 7-7200rpms why on earth would you need any more head on a stock shortblock?
The stock shortblock is going to limit you rpm wise so there will be little opportunity to make it "wild" Mine is mellow enough to hand the keys to anyone or tow a small boat around. Mine is all outdated stuff from them too.
The stock shortblock is going to limit you rpm wise so there will be little opportunity to make it "wild" Mine is mellow enough to hand the keys to anyone or tow a small boat around. Mine is all outdated stuff from them too.
Thanks
07-14-2008, 09:49 PM
#14
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AFR 227's, and have Lloyd/AI port them. If they can port the"stockers" and perform that well...Just think what they could do with Aftermarket heads? Its all in the heads, man. They're the "base" to a killer setup. Then, custom grind SR cam and a single plane..
Tony Shephard, OutlawZ, Taner...Id check out their setups...
Tony Shephard, OutlawZ, Taner...Id check out their setups...
07-14-2008, 10:42 PM
#15
07-14-2008, 11:01 PM
#16
talk to herron performance and his "rattle trap" LT1! he may be beat now but he got 7.4s out of his being totally stock with mild bolt ons..... but even if he has been beat by now he can still help you along your journey and he also runs an online parts catalog and he has all kinda good suspension that he used that helped him get that car to hook like a beast!
07-15-2008, 06:24 PM
#17
The people throwing out stupidity like AFR 227s have no clue what they are talking about. On a 350ci motor you would have to spin the motor WAY WAY beyond the shortblock or pcms capability to get those to start working.
The one guy I personally know using them(afr 227) does so on a 7200rpm 434ci motor fed boost and a little nitrous to cool it. When he started a blower 383 with more modest goals for a friend, the called AI for ported GM LT1 castings.
Most guys are incapable of seperating what works in bench racing land from what works here in the real world, and can't tell the difference between applications. What a 7200rpm big cube blower motor needs is nothing like what a 6500rpm NA 350 needs, and on a stock shortblock you would do well to limit to about 6500, at least try and keep peak to say 6300 so even if you do rev over 6500 it is not that much over.
Now if you are going to do like some guys and have the motor gone through and still call it stock then you could stretch the rpms a bit more, just have the rods redone with better bolts. High rpm stock shortblock LT1s have been known to spin rod bearings in particular, this is most likely due to stock rod bolts stretching.
IMO the best reason to look at aftermarket castings would be if you need a big chamber to drop compression for boost, other than that, the stock heads work wonderfully in everything from daily drivers to all out racecars.
The one guy I personally know using them(afr 227) does so on a 7200rpm 434ci motor fed boost and a little nitrous to cool it. When he started a blower 383 with more modest goals for a friend, the called AI for ported GM LT1 castings.
Most guys are incapable of seperating what works in bench racing land from what works here in the real world, and can't tell the difference between applications. What a 7200rpm big cube blower motor needs is nothing like what a 6500rpm NA 350 needs, and on a stock shortblock you would do well to limit to about 6500, at least try and keep peak to say 6300 so even if you do rev over 6500 it is not that much over.
Now if you are going to do like some guys and have the motor gone through and still call it stock then you could stretch the rpms a bit more, just have the rods redone with better bolts. High rpm stock shortblock LT1s have been known to spin rod bearings in particular, this is most likely due to stock rod bolts stretching.
IMO the best reason to look at aftermarket castings would be if you need a big chamber to drop compression for boost, other than that, the stock heads work wonderfully in everything from daily drivers to all out racecars.
07-15-2008, 07:38 PM
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He's looking for suggestions for a stock block, not stock bottom end. The guys that I mentioned, are using the STOCK BLOCK.. I know for a fact, Taner drives his around, shows/cruises,etc. Another thing is, that he said nothing about using the factory pcm. A standalone was an option, that he stated.
07-15-2008, 08:08 PM
#19
Well he also said he has $5500-6000 to spend, and that wont do a good motor. A good topend will pretty easily be $3000 by the time you are done totaling everything up. He is also asking about tranny and tuning add those in and it is the entire budget, without having touched the bottomend.
AChotrod, please clarify, I am taking this post as meaning stock shortblock, meaning not rebuilding the engine, just modifying the topend.
Even so if you do mean a "built" engine first your budget wont allow it and second, don't listen to the bench racers. LT1 heads and intake have gone 9.88 at 138mph in a 3400lbs car without any special density altitude or anything and it is a BRACKET car not heads up.
Yet guys act all impressed by 11.0 from converted heads and single plane intakes, I don't get it.
AChotrod, please clarify, I am taking this post as meaning stock shortblock, meaning not rebuilding the engine, just modifying the topend.
Even so if you do mean a "built" engine first your budget wont allow it and second, don't listen to the bench racers. LT1 heads and intake have gone 9.88 at 138mph in a 3400lbs car without any special density altitude or anything and it is a BRACKET car not heads up.
Yet guys act all impressed by 11.0 from converted heads and single plane intakes, I don't get it.
07-15-2008, 09:04 PM
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Well he also said he has $5500-6000 to spend, and that wont do a good motor. A good topend will pretty easily be $3000 by the time you are done totaling everything up. He is also asking about tranny and tuning add those in and it is the entire budget, without having touched the bottomend.
AChotrod, please clarify, I am taking this post as meaning stock shortblock, meaning not rebuilding the engine, just modifying the topend.
Even so if you do mean a "built" engine first your budget wont allow it and second, don't listen to the bench racers. LT1 heads and intake have gone 9.88 at 138mph in a 3400lbs car without any special density altitude or anything and it is a BRACKET car not heads up.
Yet guys act all impressed by 11.0 from converted heads and single plane intakes, I don't get it.
AChotrod, please clarify, I am taking this post as meaning stock shortblock, meaning not rebuilding the engine, just modifying the topend.
Even so if you do mean a "built" engine first your budget wont allow it and second, don't listen to the bench racers. LT1 heads and intake have gone 9.88 at 138mph in a 3400lbs car without any special density altitude or anything and it is a BRACKET car not heads up.
Yet guys act all impressed by 11.0 from converted heads and single plane intakes, I don't get it.
read it all, up until i posted, then show me one place where he says stock shortblock!?!?!
thats right, sit down and STFU!
is AI's car a 6spd car, NOPE! again, STFU!
my point stands by the topic and original info given! if you want to be the fastest stock block M6 LT1, you will need the high dollar parts, tuning and time involved to make it happen!!