BIG_T

iTrader: (1)

then i would have never bought a lt1. its always something breaking, starting to break, or u know it will soon with these cars. i replaced the opti and fresh tune up 1k ago. well the damn random studder it had is back, my msd6al gave out on me so im rocking stock ignition, it was a weird hick up deal around 5500-6200 like its hitting a fuel cut off. i just spent 5k in part this summer the car is tuned too and everything is new (except fpr and pump) that could cause the studder issue

/rant

LT1forever

iTrader: (4)

Look on the bright side, at least your not dumping money into a mustang.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

There are two things that bother me about my LT-1. First, the oil leaks. The car was fine for the first 3 years, then the manifold started its usual leak at the rear. The car was still under warranty at the time, so the dealer took care of it. Since then, I've had to pull the manifold twice, as the RTV dries out at 3-4 year intervals. Then, the oil pan gasket started seeping, so I put in a new "one piece" FelPro pan gasket. I just can't get it to seal up completely. I always have a drip or two on the tranny inspection cover....

I, of course, didn't help matters, because I decided to upgrade some of the valvetrain. This, naturally, required removal of the valve covers. I also decided to get "tricky" and modify a set of the tall, black Proform valve covers to clear the alternator. Maybe welding the "patch" in place, after "clearancing" the RH cover warped it a little, but I always have a drip or two of oil hanging off the starter.....


Secondly thing that really bothers me is the distributor location. Although it might have been a good idea, in theory, putting the distributor BEHIND the water pump was pretty dumb. Besides the obvious, being that if the H20 pump leaks, it dumps on the distributor, just changing the distributor cap is an ordeal.

I strongly believe in good maintenance. I changed my distributor cap about 5-6 years ago, when my car had about 30-35,000 miles on it. The cap and rotor's contacts both were pretty well burned, as well as residue from them coated the inside of the distributor housing. A few weeks ago, I decided to change the cap and rotor again, as the car now has 71,000 miles on it.

Yes, I know that I'm 5 years older now, and don't have quite the same amount of ambition as I used to, nor the same amount of patience, but HOLY CRAP!! I don't remember having to tear as much stuff off the front of the engine as I just did, just to change a simple piece of the ignition system!! There are too many brackets in front of the distributor that have to come off!!


The LS-1 in my C-5 has coil packs, right on top of the engine, and it hasn't leaked a single drop of oil in the 7 years I've had it.


End of rant..............

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I think the LT1 gets too bad of a rep. My OEM distributer in my 97 SS lasted 140K miles before it bit the dust. My fuel pump went out about a month later. No it wasn't fun replacing those things by myself, but what can you expect after 10 years...nothing lasts forever. As far as I'm concerned, with regular maintenance, the LT1 can be just as reliable as any small block Chevy.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I feel your pain, hell i just dumped 2k in a rearend/gear up-grade & the car slows down, plus i'm still on the original Opti, heck i'm sure the Cap/rotor are original too, i'm sitting at 158K, i know it should be changed, but after all the other crap, i'm just not in the mood.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

That's why my car has sat for about 2 years.

Crows93Z

iTrader: (1)

hell my OEM opti has lasted up till now (151k). the only thing i have had to replace is the ICM, due to it breaking down. Now i've melted a fuel line on my muffler once, had to fix that. And I changed the fuel pump to give myself some extra insurance so I figured i'd get it done anyways (was whining like a bitch).

it has been a dependable car for me, I've owned it for about 51,000 miles in only about a year and a half, daily driving it on the street everyday, stop and go traffic.

i guess LT1's are just hit or miss. i know mine surprises a lot of cars though.

Lt14mla

iTrader: (2)

theres more than one reason why they say the devil built the LT1

Hot94Z28

I agree with him.

PNYKLR-TA

iTrader: (1)

i totally agree with both these guys.

the way i see it is, my little sister and girlfriend have both wanted a mustang for their entire life because the mustang is "cute"

and just to set the record straight my girlfriend drives my car but is terrified of it because its, in her words "loud, mean, and uncontrollable"

and to me that makes it worth every penny.

and btw ive spent well over 10K on mine now. and i only paid 5,800 for it originally.

mpe331lx

iTrader: (5)

I wish that I could make my LT1 as fast as my mustang for the same amount or less money.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Dem is fightin werds...

PNYKLR-TA

iTrader: (1)

haha that was funny. too bad we call couldnt tell how much sarcasim you were intending to put into that statement.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBUJos-9pkY

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Ever stop to think that waste of money MSD ignition might have been what wore out the opti?

Ever stop to think a cap and rotor are WEAR ITEMS but most people are too stupid to grasp that and leave them go till it fails and then blame the "damned opti".

I own 3 LT1 vehicles, all bought used with 50k, 125K and 172K respectively and today they sit at 180K, 130K and 227k again in the same order, so that is over 190K I have put on my LT1 vahicles I bought used.

Somehow I do not have a fraction the trouble, many of you seem to, so maybe the real problem is behind the wrench and wheel, not under the hood. Have found the WP, and opti to be reliable, any oil leaks were minor things like old oil cooler lines(b-bodies route oil to an external cooler), goofed up an oil pan gasket install once my fault, and one rusty oilpan on a car that sat a LOT before I bought it. Never had an intake manifold leak.

Last summer I took the over 200K car to the east coast, perfectly reliable.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

In order:

Yes, I think that possibly pushing more current through the "opti", by using an MSD box might cause its premature failure;

Yes, I agree that caps and rotors are indeed "wear items", that's why I just replaced the one on my car....again. I replaced the OE parts at 35,000 miles, and most recently at 70,000 miles. It's just a real PITA compared to the "old time" SBCs, otherwise I'd change them at 20,000 miles like I used to;

After taking a hard look at my oil dripping, it might be a valve cover gasket, not the oil pan, as I thought. As I previously mentioned, I installed aftermarket valve covers, and that might be part of the problem;

I'm just not sure I agree about the manifold leakage....As I mentioned in another discussion thread, you have "B" bodies, and a lot of people here have the "F"s. I've never seen a "B" body EGR tube and its routing, but I can personally assure you that the "F" body tube is VERY close to the rear of the block/manifold interface, and it appears to cook the RTV with regularity.


So, I pretty much agree with what you're saying.....

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I Love LT1s!!!!! Had the manifold leak way back in 97 but thats all. That is actually the most common problem with the car.

Big T. Try cleaning you MAF. Over oiling your K&N can mess up you MAF and sometimes they just get dirty and make the car run like ****. Dont touch the wires Ive used Carb cleaner.

WHITEBOY_ZACH

iTrader: (2)

b bodies have the same block and intake. and on the couple camaros ive messed with the tube is in the same place, but ive never had the intake manifold leak on me and ive been through two 197,xxx plus LT1s. and ive only had to replace one opti...in four years

i love my LT1 motors but LS is gettin cheap lol

blackz6sp

iTrader: (11)

That 6al is over 10years old now and prolly has over 60,000miles on it, they way msd is a hit or miss I'm surprised it made it that long! That is prolly the stock pump in it too.

PNYKLR-TA

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=mpe331lx;9799572]I honesty do wish that my lt1 could run 9s for as little as I have into my 96.


in all reality it really just comes down to the cost of the car, i mean honestly how much cheaper could ever part/parts you need for your v8 be that much cheaper than our v8's?

the thing that most likely made it cheaper was the actual car itself. those mustangs are so common that ive seen multiple of the same body style and color lined up at lights in phoenix.