I have a 1996 SS and my mods are LT4 hot cam, intake,heads and i have 4.10gears in a stock 10 bolt will it hold up on a drag radial? The tire is m/t et streets brand new and if so how should i lanch it i have no suspesion work at all. Thanks for you input..

 

itll launch well, but that 10 bolt will be on borrowed time. it might last, it might not. ya might wana have a backup axle ready

 

I was told do lowers and torque arm and frame connectors and that will help it out big time cuz it wheel hops like crazy and im on a street tire rite now

 

I haven't destroyed mine yet with full suspension, 3600 stall, 3.73's, and M/T's but its time is ticking. The suspension will definetly help because the wheel hop will kit it real quick. An A4 wont beat on the rear quite as bad as an M6 will but still doesn't mean it will last forever unfortunately.

 

M6 or A4 is probably the single biggest part of the equasion. M6 is a lot more shock load and far more likely to do damage.

 

i have full suspention with nitto dr 315 on a m6. and i dead hook and broke both axels. the stock 10 bolt wont last.

 

oh yes for sure, m6 is very harsh on every other part in ur drivetrain while the a4 is very gentle. but with 4.10's and m/t et's it doesnt really matter what transmission youve got, that puts a lot of stress on these weak diffs. my opinion dude, start saving for a 12 or a 9

 

Ive been running 4.10's and bfg drag radials all year with no suspension mods. My best 60' was a 1.81 no issues yet. I got this rear end out of another auto car that used it for a couple years doing the same thing..So 3 seasons on it holding strong..

 

he is a4 with 4:10's. thats overkill for an auto really but launching will be a little easier on the rear than an m6 because the power rolls on as opposed to slamming on.

 

if ur an A4 please tell us how it is driving with 4.10's everyone swears its a nightmare but i dn i kinda want to get 4.10's

 

Yea it a A4 it pulls really well from a dig alot better then my stock gears. The only problem is i spin through second and i have brand new tires and if it dont spin it wheel hops. At 55 mph im at 2500. But i like the gear, crapy gas milege but i didnt buy it for that if i wanted that i would of bought a honda. But thats y i want a drag radial because i spin like a mad man.

 

I ran some BFG drag radials on my car with 4.10s in a stock rear. I had originally swapped my 3.42 10 bolt for a 4.10 out of a 94. I stripped the teeth off of the pinion in that one, but I believe it was due to improper installation. I know who put the gears in and he is by no means a genious. I rebuilt it with a stud girdle (all from thunder racing) and haven't had any problems since. I would imagine if you aren't too crazy with your launch, it will break the tires loose before any real bad damage occurs. That's the way its worked for me anyway...

 

In the b-bodies with 2.93-3.08 gearing 27-28" tires driving around in "drive" instead of "overdrive" is a good test of whether you will be able to tolerate increased highway rpms of 4.10 gears.

Don't feel like doiong the math for the f-body but seems to me it would still be a good test.

 

You should be fine.. but don't count on it. My stock one went out just cause it was time I guess..the Clutches burned up and the Spider Gears stripped pulling out of my driveway.
I put an Auburn Pro Series Diff in inplace of that. Once I got the suspension hooking up with my 402 LSX, it lasted about a dozen 1.56-1.58 60ft's..it shattered on a wheelie.. I was using MT ET STREETS, size 275/50 R15 on Draglites at 12 psi.

Best words of advice, I have followed these as well..

Don't **** around with the 10-bolt when you break it, get you a 9".

 

I think im just going to wait and get BMR lowers maybe frame connectors

 

i drive mine in drive not overdrive right now... (brake switch malfunction, lockup is not working in the converter) and i dont mind it at all... so i guess im gonna go to 4.10's in stead of my stock 3.23's

 

Wat would be better for my car a 12 bolt or 9"

 

9" will hold more power..both cost about the same. The 9" is a little easier to work with..expecially with a Gear Swap.

Personally the one thing I don't like about the 12 Bolt is that the Torque Arm Bolts up to it with 4 individual Bolts, instead of the 2 big Bolts. I've heard from many people that they come loose, and about the only thing to keep them inplace it to Tac-weld the Nut.

 

merv is building a motor really hard? im thinking about building a motor to put in my car when im good and ready

 

Honestly.. no. It's just like a giant Erector set man.. just put it together the way it goes..

That and when you built your own Engine or whatever you do..you can see how it works, and troubleshoot it alot easier.
I'm tearing my Car apart right now, in the process of my T56 Swap..