Motor out the top
If you're pulling it out the top, you have HAVE to take the intake manifold and ALL the accessories out. I've done it twice, and I don't see how you could pull it out the top without taking everything off. Basically out the top=longblock.
Here's the easiest way to pull it out the top. remove hood, radiator and all front hoses, etc. remove alternator, disconnect tranny, no power steering pump, smog pump, etc. Put all that crap on later..... Turn motor 90 degrees in the engine bay so the front is aimed toward the drivers side. Get motor low enough in the bay so that the valvetrain clears the cowl then start rotating motor back to straight..... works everytime. Lose the valve covers as well cuz they'll hit and if they are nice you'll jack your **** up....
here's a few shots of us doing mine from the top.....
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: SE Michigan
You don't have to take off the intake to lift it from the top. You need an engine lift plate. TPIS (tpis.com) makes the Happy Hooker lift plate that bolts to the top of your intake. I bought one a couple of years ago for about $50 and it was worth it. It makes lifting an LT1 from the top a breeze.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Ok, I take it the happy hooker comes with bolts to use with it? I wouldn't trust the actual fuel rail bolts, as I have one snapped off on the front driver side, and hey the engine I bought also has one broke off in the same location. Some dumbass at GM over torque that bolt for over a year?
Thanks for the pictures, I guess I will look into getting one, although I guess I will have to fix that bolt, or I can go the remove intake route I suppose. No rush here though, still don't have clutch money, being unemployed sucks. Sunday I will probably try to get the last two bolts out for motor to bellhousing, if its not raining, 40-50% all on the 5 day forecast, in FL that means its going to rain.
Thanks for the pictures, I guess I will look into getting one, although I guess I will have to fix that bolt, or I can go the remove intake route I suppose. No rush here though, still don't have clutch money, being unemployed sucks. Sunday I will probably try to get the last two bolts out for motor to bellhousing, if its not raining, 40-50% all on the 5 day forecast, in FL that means its going to rain.
12 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, KY
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Any advice on getting the bellhousing to motor bolts on the driver side? Having a hard time getting the middle and upper one out.
Got around to working on it today and got the accessory bracket and a/c out today, but can't seem to get those two bolts out. I can barely get the wrench on the middle one, and don't seem to have any room to turn it, so I'm perplexed. Between those two bolts, and one in each motor mount and the oil cooler, it should be ready to come out.
Got around to working on it today and got the accessory bracket and a/c out today, but can't seem to get those two bolts out. I can barely get the wrench on the middle one, and don't seem to have any room to turn it, so I'm perplexed. Between those two bolts, and one in each motor mount and the oil cooler, it should be ready to come out.
i had to remove my intake and i ran intake bolt to a chain and used the hoist to lift the engine out, had to remove all accessory's and water pump! if you dont it will hit the front. Didnt have to remove my hood to pull the engine out, it cleard with lots of room.
ive done it both ways out the top and bottom. I prefer doing it out the top. Once you do it both ways youll know which way you like better.
ive done it both ways out the top and bottom. I prefer doing it out the top. Once you do it both ways youll know which way you like better.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Its def. coming out the top, I just have to figure out how to get those last two bolts? Bellhousing to block there, the middle and upper bolt on the driver side?
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Verdad Gallardo well i had the trans tilted down and used a thin wall short swivel 9/16", 6-Point socket with a 24" extension , came out with no problem.
Happy hooker in action:
http://www.akmcables.com/l99.htm
That's an iron headed motor. Suspended by 4 fuel rail bolts. If I hadn't done it myself several times, I wouldn't trust it either.
BUt it works great. Note the hood is still on the car. 
And yeah, 2-3 feet of socket extensions with wobbles will get to those bolts. Nobody said it was easy!
http://www.akmcables.com/l99.htm
That's an iron headed motor. Suspended by 4 fuel rail bolts. If I hadn't done it myself several times, I wouldn't trust it either.
BUt it works great. Note the hood is still on the car. And yeah, 2-3 feet of socket extensions with wobbles will get to those bolts. Nobody said it was easy!
Here is how I did it.
I pulled off all the accesories. Leave the manifolds on.
Take off the wheels in the front.
Take off the struts.
Take off Upper A arms.
2 bolts and a small bolt take out the power steering rack.(Dont forget your hoses too!)
Take off the Hubs/Spindle assembly.
6 bolts take off the front subframe.(Becareful about power steering/brake lines)
[[At this point youll need to hold the engine up, id attach a hoist, thats what i did]]
Take off the torque arm if you didnt
Then the driveshaft
3 or 4 bolts take off the trans xmember
At this point brace the back of the trans with a jack so it doesnt come crashing down
Set something like a dolly or something under the trans/motor assy
lower the two in sync onto the dolly
as it is coming down just check to make sure your not pulling any wires or hoses
disconnect stuff as needed.
Take pictures through the process. Itll help when it comes to putting it all back together.
And label your nuts bolts/// i didnt and its still a mess.
I pulled off all the accesories. Leave the manifolds on.
Take off the wheels in the front.
Take off the struts.
Take off Upper A arms.
2 bolts and a small bolt take out the power steering rack.(Dont forget your hoses too!)
Take off the Hubs/Spindle assembly.
6 bolts take off the front subframe.(Becareful about power steering/brake lines)
[[At this point youll need to hold the engine up, id attach a hoist, thats what i did]]
Take off the torque arm if you didnt
Then the driveshaft
3 or 4 bolts take off the trans xmember
At this point brace the back of the trans with a jack so it doesnt come crashing down
Set something like a dolly or something under the trans/motor assy
lower the two in sync onto the dolly
as it is coming down just check to make sure your not pulling any wires or hoses
disconnect stuff as needed.
Take pictures through the process. Itll help when it comes to putting it all back together.
And label your nuts bolts/// i didnt and its still a mess.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Yes, that is def. the way its happening next time.
Ok so I didn't use the happy hooker, I have a slight problem with using it as I have a fuel rail bolt broke off, the front driver one. Guess what? Its also broke off on the motor I'm putting in also! Anyone have any advice on getting it out?
Ok so pictures below, I pulled the intake manifold off, doesn't look like I can get the hoist in far enough though? I had a chain hooked into I would guess if looking at the book would be holes 1 and 4 in the tightening sequence. Anycase one on each side. When I try to lift the motor it pulls the hoist into the nose instead of trying to get the engine up. I think I got the block separated far enough from the trans, how should that all look? 1st engine pull here, need some advice.
Ok so I didn't use the happy hooker, I have a slight problem with using it as I have a fuel rail bolt broke off, the front driver one. Guess what? Its also broke off on the motor I'm putting in also! Anyone have any advice on getting it out?
Ok so pictures below, I pulled the intake manifold off, doesn't look like I can get the hoist in far enough though? I had a chain hooked into I would guess if looking at the book would be holes 1 and 4 in the tightening sequence. Anycase one on each side. When I try to lift the motor it pulls the hoist into the nose instead of trying to get the engine up. I think I got the block separated far enough from the trans, how should that all look? 1st engine pull here, need some advice.
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 417
Likes: 1
From: Canada
mine will be coming out the top next week, gunna drop and roll the tranny out the bottem...not litterly but that kidna idea.. is it a MUST that the motor be spun? it looks like there is tons of room to slide it right forwards to the rad supports and yank it str8t up with the hood off...
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
So does someone make a longer arm for the hoist, or is that a stupid idea?? Can someone look at those pictures and give me a idea or something? I gotta get this car running, I'm starting to go crazy, I think I'm having withdrawls.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Yes. So I was wondering if they make a longer arm, or if that is a really bad idea. Or whats going on wrong here that mine isn't reaching. I'm maybe 2 inches back off the front of the block.