What is this ticking noise?
(assuming stock lifters) 1/8 turn lash is not enough when i set mine, i used 1/2 turn.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
refer to adjusting valves and zero lash it calls for 1/2-3/4 turn past zero lash for stock lifters.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves
refer to adjusting valves and zero lash it calls for 1/2-3/4 turn past zero lash for stock lifters.
Don't shoot, I'm only the messenger........
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From: Skippack, PA
Just got done readjusting the valves this time with the car running. I added my 1/8th turn preload like Lloyd advised and all the rockers were squirting oil just fine and oil pressure was right at about 30. However, if I put anymore than an 1/8th turn say like a 1/4-1/2th then they would not squirt oil....and my ticking noise is still there so Im extremely puzzled now 
Launching!
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From: Sweden
NO no no
pro-mags 7/16 non self aligning with trickflow guideplates and thunder racing chromemoly PRs.
It sounds ike you've hit all the bases, but my mind goes back to an "Analytical Troubleshooting" course I took about 30-32 years ago. The constant thing you do is compare the "Should" and the "Actual".
Your valve train "should" be fairly quiet. It's "actually" somewhat noisy....Go back to when it was quiet...what changed? Was it rockers? Lifters? Pushrods?
Given the numerous disussions involving the Comp 875R lifters, which I happen to have, I was poking around on the net for a while this afternoon. Some say they're fine, as long as you adjust them correctly, whle others insist they're nothing more than a time bomb.
Assuming they're a time bomb, the next question is, then, what do you use?One thing I came across was a discussion of the LS7 lifters, and whether or not they're interchangable with LT-1s. Some same yes, and some say yes....BUT. The "but", according to some, is that the LS7 lifters have a deeper pushrod cup. Which, according to some, requires longer pushrods to correct the valvetrain geometry.
Any chance you installed these lifters?
Your valve train "should" be fairly quiet. It's "actually" somewhat noisy....Go back to when it was quiet...what changed? Was it rockers? Lifters? Pushrods?
Given the numerous disussions involving the Comp 875R lifters, which I happen to have, I was poking around on the net for a while this afternoon. Some say they're fine, as long as you adjust them correctly, whle others insist they're nothing more than a time bomb.
Assuming they're a time bomb, the next question is, then, what do you use?One thing I came across was a discussion of the LS7 lifters, and whether or not they're interchangable with LT-1s. Some same yes, and some say yes....BUT. The "but", according to some, is that the LS7 lifters have a deeper pushrod cup. Which, according to some, requires longer pushrods to correct the valvetrain geometry.
Any chance you installed these lifters?
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Thread Starter
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From: Skippack, PA
It sounds ike you've hit all the bases, but my mind goes back to an "Analytical Troubleshooting" course I took about 30-32 years ago. The constant thing you do is compare the "Should" and the "Actual".
Your valve train "should" be fairly quiet. It's "actually" somewhat noisy....Go back to when it was quiet...what changed? Was it rockers? Lifters? Pushrods?
Given the numerous disussions involving the Comp 875R lifters, which I happen to have, I was poking around on the net for a while this afternoon. Some say they're fine, as long as you adjust them correctly, whle others insist they're nothing more than a time bomb.
Assuming they're a time bomb, the next question is, then, what do you use?One thing I came across was a discussion of the LS7 lifters, and whether or not they're interchangable with LT-1s. Some same yes, and some say yes....BUT. The "but", according to some, is that the LS7 lifters have a deeper pushrod cup. Which, according to some, requires longer pushrods to correct the valvetrain geometry.
Any chance you installed these lifters?
Your valve train "should" be fairly quiet. It's "actually" somewhat noisy....Go back to when it was quiet...what changed? Was it rockers? Lifters? Pushrods?
Given the numerous disussions involving the Comp 875R lifters, which I happen to have, I was poking around on the net for a while this afternoon. Some say they're fine, as long as you adjust them correctly, whle others insist they're nothing more than a time bomb.
Assuming they're a time bomb, the next question is, then, what do you use?One thing I came across was a discussion of the LS7 lifters, and whether or not they're interchangable with LT-1s. Some same yes, and some say yes....BUT. The "but", according to some, is that the LS7 lifters have a deeper pushrod cup. Which, according to some, requires longer pushrods to correct the valvetrain geometry.
Any chance you installed these lifters?
I reused my stock 15,000 original mile lifters. They were dead quiet and worked perfect when I was cam only right before the swap. I checked pushrod length with a length checking tool and Im running the right length for my application. The mark is straight across between the exhaust side and the intake side. I did notice however that the mark shows up on the firewall side of the valve tip and not the radiator side in which some Isky adjustable guideplates would fix but I cant see that being my issue.
Revelation: yea I had them bad boys sitting in oil for a good 2 weeks.
TECH Regular
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[QUOTE=StealthFormula;9831069]Just got done readjusting the valves this time with the car running. I added my 1/8th turn preload like Lloyd advised and all the rockers were squirting oil just fine and oil pressure was right at about 30. However, if I put anymore than an 1/8th turn say like a 1/4-1/2th then they would not squirt oil....and my ticking noise is still there so Im extremely puzzled now [
Did this noise just start one day or did it get louder over time? If it just got louder overnight, is there anything from the last drive that sticks in your mind?
[Did this noise just start one day or did it get louder over time? If it just got louder overnight, is there anything from the last drive that sticks in your mind?
Last edited by BLK,97,T/A,M-6; Jul 31, 2008 at 12:09 AM. Reason: previous post was irrelavent
I reused my stock 15,000 original mile lifters. They were dead quiet and worked perfect when I was cam only right before the swap. I checked pushrod length with a length checking tool and Im running the right length for my application. The mark is straight across between the exhaust side and the intake side. I did notice however that the mark shows up on the firewall side of the valve tip and not the radiator side in which some Isky adjustable guideplates would fix but I cant see that being my issue.
Revelation: yea I had them bad boys sitting in oil for a good 2 weeks.
Revelation: yea I had them bad boys sitting in oil for a good 2 weeks.
You've got to be pulling your hair out by now!!
Just to go back to your first post on this, you mention Comp ProMags. Were these new to the equation? Also, you say that when you were "cam only", everything was quiet. How much pre load did you have on the lifters at that point? Not to be repetitive, but GM does call out 1 full turn of pre-load on their lifters. But, as we all know, they "pump up" quicker with that much cranked in....
I find it almost impossible that the rockers would be that noisy, rather I should say making THAT kind of noise. I've heard "noisy" roller rockers, and they sound more like a loud sewing machine, but not the loud "clack" that your vid showed.
Man, I feel for you, but I'm at a loss..............
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From: Skippack, PA
Nah the rockers aren't hitting the valve covers. The noise immediately started after I fired the car up for the first time after putting the heads and whatnot on. When I was cam-only I actually had SA Comp Cam Magnums on there but not sure on the preload I had a shop do the work back then. It really doesn't seem like the rockers are making the noise now but I also find it hard to believe its the lifters since they are working right but I really dunno. Talk about a PITA!
Stealth, I'm sure that you're probably aware of this, but I'll just throw it out there, since it appears that you're grasping at straws by now....
There was a somewhat heated debate on this forum last week. It was concerning the use of guideplates with self aligning rockers. I see in your post here that you mention both SAs and non-SAs. Any chance you have the SAs with guideplates, OR the non-SAs without??
Just a thought..........
There was a somewhat heated debate on this forum last week. It was concerning the use of guideplates with self aligning rockers. I see in your post here that you mention both SAs and non-SAs. Any chance you have the SAs with guideplates, OR the non-SAs without??
Just a thought..........
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
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From: Skippack, PA
Stealth, I'm sure that you're probably aware of this, but I'll just throw it out there, since it appears that you're grasping at straws by now....
There was a somewhat heated debate on this forum last week. It was concerning the use of guideplates with self aligning rockers. I see in your post here that you mention both SAs and non-SAs. Any chance you have the SAs with guideplates, OR the non-SAs without??
Just a thought..........
There was a somewhat heated debate on this forum last week. It was concerning the use of guideplates with self aligning rockers. I see in your post here that you mention both SAs and non-SAs. Any chance you have the SAs with guideplates, OR the non-SAs without??
Just a thought..........
Thread Starter
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From: Skippack, PA
I tore the exhaust apart and the past few days I have gotten caught up in other things so I have no updates unfortunately! Hopefully friday I will know.
On The Tree
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Specs for a stock stamped steel NON-ROLLER rocker are diffrent than that of a roller rocker arm. There is MUCH more forgiving flex in the stamped steel arms than the roller rockers.
Maybe its just my many years of working on Mercedes Benz however 1/8 or 1/4 turn to me is not acceptable.
The best way to do it is to have done it hundreds of times, then you would say,
The best and most accurate way to do it is with the intake manifold off prior to installing it in the vehicle. Using your eye you can see when the dish on the lifter starts to deflect. A feeler gauge goes a long way but can easily deflect the dish. I myself go with ZERO lash which means the lifters had better be good. Usually they are good for 80,000 but if you got more than that on them just buy some new ones.
When properly set they should only chatter a brief second until oil pressure builds. From there is will have a mechanical sound but it wont be ticking.
Using this meathod ensures the valve fully closes, going with an 1/8 turn is too tight for roller rocker arms. You have to be eye balling the top of that lifter dish where the push rod sits. That is why they have Posi-Locks rather than crush nuts. Too much of a turn will keep the valve from closing all the way once they pump up. The looser they are the higher it revs. Too loose can be fatal. Zero lash is where I set them. None of this 1/8 turn crap when using roller rocker arms.
Properlly set roller rockers and good springs make high RPM a whole lot of fun.
Maybe its just my many years of working on Mercedes Benz however 1/8 or 1/4 turn to me is not acceptable.
The best way to do it is to have done it hundreds of times, then you would say,
The best and most accurate way to do it is with the intake manifold off prior to installing it in the vehicle. Using your eye you can see when the dish on the lifter starts to deflect. A feeler gauge goes a long way but can easily deflect the dish. I myself go with ZERO lash which means the lifters had better be good. Usually they are good for 80,000 but if you got more than that on them just buy some new ones.
When properly set they should only chatter a brief second until oil pressure builds. From there is will have a mechanical sound but it wont be ticking.
Using this meathod ensures the valve fully closes, going with an 1/8 turn is too tight for roller rocker arms. You have to be eye balling the top of that lifter dish where the push rod sits. That is why they have Posi-Locks rather than crush nuts. Too much of a turn will keep the valve from closing all the way once they pump up. The looser they are the higher it revs. Too loose can be fatal. Zero lash is where I set them. None of this 1/8 turn crap when using roller rocker arms.
Properlly set roller rockers and good springs make high RPM a whole lot of fun.