How do you clean your LT1 engine bay
08-01-2008, 02:42 PM
#22
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i spray the whole motor and bay down with simple green then power wash ell out of it then i go over all the plactic parts with WD40. never have had a problem with the optie
08-01-2008, 04:41 PM
#24
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everyone makes such a big deal out of the opti dying as soon as water touches it.. its not THAT bad, my god. I spray mine with degreaser and rinse it off with the hose.
08-02-2008, 08:55 AM
#25
Did mine with Gunk engine cleaner on a rag and another rag with Simple Green on it. Lots of elbow grease. Then another rag with water (not too much) to clean off any residue. Then finish up with Tire Foam. Just be sure not to have too much moisture in there.
08-02-2008, 09:23 AM
#26
I don't do it that often because I drive far too much to worry about keeping things like underhood spotless but I have never had a problem pressure washing underhood. Difference is I am competent and take the time to understand things which leads to putting things together well and avoiding all these stupid problems the rest of you create.
If pressure washing underhood causes problems then the cap loose, the vacuum lines not sealed, the wiring harness is not sealed, or the wires are bad. It is just that simple. I do not silicon cap or anything just make sure the gasket and sealing surface are clean and put a dab of dielectric grease on the weatherpak seal.
People find it a lot easier to blame parts rather than ask themselves what they could do differently.
If pressure washing underhood causes problems then the cap loose, the vacuum lines not sealed, the wiring harness is not sealed, or the wires are bad. It is just that simple. I do not silicon cap or anything just make sure the gasket and sealing surface are clean and put a dab of dielectric grease on the weatherpak seal.
People find it a lot easier to blame parts rather than ask themselves what they could do differently.
08-02-2008, 09:34 AM
#27
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What i have always used to clean a engine bay is Tide or Dawn in a sprayer bottle. I spray it down and let it soak in for a few hours or more then come back with hot water and hose it off. The tuff spots i finish up with elbow greese
08-02-2008, 07:22 PM
#28
I don't do it that often because I drive far too much to worry about keeping things like underhood spotless but I have never had a problem pressure washing underhood. Difference is I am competent and take the time to understand things which leads to putting things together well and avoiding all these stupid problems the rest of you create.
If pressure washing underhood causes problems then the cap loose, the vacuum lines not sealed, the wiring harness is not sealed, or the wires are bad. It is just that simple. I do not silicon cap or anything just make sure the gasket and sealing surface are clean and put a dab of dielectric grease on the weatherpak seal.
People find it a lot easier to blame parts rather than ask themselves what they could do differently.
If pressure washing underhood causes problems then the cap loose, the vacuum lines not sealed, the wiring harness is not sealed, or the wires are bad. It is just that simple. I do not silicon cap or anything just make sure the gasket and sealing surface are clean and put a dab of dielectric grease on the weatherpak seal.
People find it a lot easier to blame parts rather than ask themselves what they could do differently.
08-02-2008, 07:35 PM
#29
Not amazing, just competent, and willing to learn rather than blindly trying to blame something, anything for every problem I encounter.
The opti's location does expose it to more water than the traditional rear mounted distributor, BUT it is also sealed a whole heck of a lot better. I have managed to snuff out HEI vehicles hitting water but never an opti vehicle. I actually enjoy a couple inches of standing water on the roads and the 255s sending up a wall of water so you can't see out the sidewindows, wife doesn't appreciate my hydroplaning skills though.
The opti's location does expose it to more water than the traditional rear mounted distributor, BUT it is also sealed a whole heck of a lot better. I have managed to snuff out HEI vehicles hitting water but never an opti vehicle. I actually enjoy a couple inches of standing water on the roads and the 255s sending up a wall of water so you can't see out the sidewindows, wife doesn't appreciate my hydroplaning skills though.
08-04-2008, 05:16 PM
#32
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Last time I cleaned mine with a heated pressure washer avoiding opti (back when I still had it) and any obvious connectors that were exposed. The dirt/grease/grime literally melts off with those high temp pressure washers. They are AMAZING at cleaning the inside of the rims too!
08-05-2008, 10:33 AM
#33
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Did mine yesterday with a gas operated pressure washer. Used 3 cans of engine brite degreaser. 1st the gel degreaser because where ever you spray the stuf it sticks right to it. 2nd foaming degreaser to lift up stuborn dirt and grime. 3rd the regular degreaser as a rinse down type. I did let each sit for 10min before I sprayed again. I pressure washed after words (avoding the front of the engine) and it came out clean as a whistle. If you opened the hood on my car everything was just black. I dont think the guy ever washed under there but it looks good now.
08-05-2008, 05:17 PM
#36
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08-06-2008, 09:00 AM
#39
Yeah, I was in the middle of buffing the car and had just stripped all the wax off of it. My bro says the same thing all the time when he see that picture. The outside is just as shinny as the engine bay now.
09-05-2008, 08:29 AM
#40
yea i washed my engine with a heated pressure washer and avoided the opti. then my dad told me i was doing a bad job. i explained the crappy opti problem and he sed i was dumb and sprayed directlly at the opti and what a suprise my car dosent run now. im told it could just be cap and rotor failure but i fear i need a hole opti.