Best Bang For The Buck Questions
#1
Best Bang For The Buck Questions
Just got a 1995 Z28 Camaro, 6 speed!
I've been trying to read up as much as I can about it but, I can't find what I'm looking for.
I'm looking parts that gives me for the best bang for the buck on a LT1. If someone could give me a run down on the first 5 or so parts I should look into and install that would be great, thanks in advance.
I've been trying to read up as much as I can about it but, I can't find what I'm looking for.
I'm looking parts that gives me for the best bang for the buck on a LT1. If someone could give me a run down on the first 5 or so parts I should look into and install that would be great, thanks in advance.
#2
You looking for feel and fun on the street or for track performance??
In no particular order
Gears, need tuning to correct speedo so maybe save this for last, tuning is surprisingly cheap and easy though.
headers
catback
cai
tuneup, not typically thought of as a performance thing but let's be realistic, it's a 13yo car this is a good place to start.
In no particular order
Gears, need tuning to correct speedo so maybe save this for last, tuning is surprisingly cheap and easy though.
headers
catback
cai
tuneup, not typically thought of as a performance thing but let's be realistic, it's a 13yo car this is a good place to start.
#4
Anything you do will need (benefit) from a tune, even in stock trim a tune really helps, Gears are the best for a M6, go with 4.10's, RPM's will still be very reasonable in 6th on the highway...Opening up the intake and exhaust is a must on the LT's...
#5
drag radials
throttle body by-pass
up to date tune up!!!!!!!!!!!
cai,160*stat,t-b by-pass
mac mids or longtubes
elec.h2o pump
1.6 rockers,new valve springs
255 fuel pump,new injectors
4.10s m6 or 3.73s a4
tune,tune,tune................
i realize you said (5) but each mod compliments the next..if you plan on a 1500.00 budget expect to pay 2000.00
OR
drag radials
cai,t-b by-pass
255 pump,new inj.
mids or long tubes
100-150 shot
theres 5 you can get away with and still have a bunch of fun
throttle body by-pass
up to date tune up!!!!!!!!!!!
cai,160*stat,t-b by-pass
mac mids or longtubes
elec.h2o pump
1.6 rockers,new valve springs
255 fuel pump,new injectors
4.10s m6 or 3.73s a4
tune,tune,tune................
i realize you said (5) but each mod compliments the next..if you plan on a 1500.00 budget expect to pay 2000.00
OR
drag radials
cai,t-b by-pass
255 pump,new inj.
mids or long tubes
100-150 shot
theres 5 you can get away with and still have a bunch of fun
#6
Just got a 1995 Z28 Camaro, 6 speed!
I've been trying to read up as much as I can about it but, I can't find what I'm looking for.
I'm looking parts that gives me for the best bang for the buck on a LT1. If someone could give me a run down on the first 5 or so parts I should look into and install that would be great, thanks in advance.
I've been trying to read up as much as I can about it but, I can't find what I'm looking for.
I'm looking parts that gives me for the best bang for the buck on a LT1. If someone could give me a run down on the first 5 or so parts I should look into and install that would be great, thanks in advance.
If you do gears I would swap the stock driveshaft to an alluminum LS1 dirveshaft.
Last edited by Elliott's94Z; 08-11-2008 at 10:00 AM.
#7
IMO the electric WPs are overdone for street use. yes they put more power to the wheels, but they also suddenly and completely fail as opposed to the slow weeping of the mechanical pump. Don't catch it in time and your motor will overheat and ruin parts FAST.
Many of the smrter guys that use them and understand things actually notice HIGHER water tems at cruise.
Many of the smrter guys that use them and understand things actually notice HIGHER water tems at cruise.
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#8
Agreed, there's no way I'd put one of those on a DD anyway.
I'd do all the maintenance first off, then:
CAI
Long Tubes & Exhaust (If emissions testing do what you can get away with)
4.10s
Shifter (Much funner to drive with a shifter IMO. The stocker is a long throw)
Drag radials
Tune
Keep an eye out on that clutch, too. Don't want to spend a bunch of money on go-fast parts and then the clutch goes out when you're broke. I've seen a few people buy these cars from people who don't have a clue and the clutch is shot.
If your luck is like mine, the clutch will be shot and the 3-4 shift fork will be bent. That's how my car was when I got it, but I pulled it out of a salvage yard so I couldn't test drive it.
I'd do all the maintenance first off, then:
CAI
Long Tubes & Exhaust (If emissions testing do what you can get away with)
4.10s
Shifter (Much funner to drive with a shifter IMO. The stocker is a long throw)
Drag radials
Tune
Keep an eye out on that clutch, too. Don't want to spend a bunch of money on go-fast parts and then the clutch goes out when you're broke. I've seen a few people buy these cars from people who don't have a clue and the clutch is shot.
If your luck is like mine, the clutch will be shot and the 3-4 shift fork will be bent. That's how my car was when I got it, but I pulled it out of a salvage yard so I couldn't test drive it.
#10
Is this a DD car? If not you could definitely stand some weight reduction. With an E-wp I would use a relayed warning system b/c you don't want it failing on you without prior notice. Like everyone else said CAI, tuneup (with some fatter plug wires), Headers, t-stat, manual fan switch, DR's, tb-bypass, these are all great places to start.
#11
For a six speed go with a short shifter 1st.
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/pro50towshif.html
then CAI, CatBack or cutout, and 4.10 gears
Edit: Forgot about the Skip Shift Eliminator
http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/pro50towshif.html
then CAI, CatBack or cutout, and 4.10 gears
Edit: Forgot about the Skip Shift Eliminator
Last edited by Mr. Camaro; 08-11-2008 at 09:13 PM.
#12
Check out the Newbie Sticky. Dont take offense, its actually got good info for anyone that is new to the LT1 stuff.
#13
First of all, congrats on your moment. What color didya get?
Skip shift eliminator, CAI, catback, shocks, tires. It's a good balance between performance and handling. The stock shocks are really bad, in fact, if I had to do it over again, shocks would come before exhaust. The skip shift should be the FIRST thing you do, and it only cost about $12.
Skip Shift - $12.00
CAI - $100 (used)
Shocks - $400 to $1000 depending on what you choose
Catback - $350 (or $100 if you go muffler only)
Tires - Depends on what you want. A lot of people like Goodrich KDW's, which would run about $500 for a set
Skip shift eliminator, CAI, catback, shocks, tires. It's a good balance between performance and handling. The stock shocks are really bad, in fact, if I had to do it over again, shocks would come before exhaust. The skip shift should be the FIRST thing you do, and it only cost about $12.
Skip Shift - $12.00
CAI - $100 (used)
Shocks - $400 to $1000 depending on what you choose
Catback - $350 (or $100 if you go muffler only)
Tires - Depends on what you want. A lot of people like Goodrich KDW's, which would run about $500 for a set
#14
Green, black top. I posted pics in the media sticky. The previous owner had a catback installed.
Edit:
If I decide to get into autocross, what are the best bang for the buck parts for suspension/handling?
Edit:
If I decide to get into autocross, what are the best bang for the buck parts for suspension/handling?
Last edited by LT1Neumann; 08-11-2008 at 11:32 PM.
#15
Theres really no way to short cut and save money on the suspension, if your going to set it up to autox then your suspension setup is something your not going to want to skimp on.
Spohn, BMR, Hotchkiss ect... are all good companies to start looking at. Just do it right the first time and you wont have to spend more than you have to.
As for bang for the buck, I would think you would see most difference from a set of lower control arms, subframe connectors, torque arm (for hard accel.), strut tower brace, and maybe even lowering the car a little. Think about some bilstein shocks or something along those lines, and maybe some good tires to stay on the road . All of this will tighten the car up.
Spohn, BMR, Hotchkiss ect... are all good companies to start looking at. Just do it right the first time and you wont have to spend more than you have to.
As for bang for the buck, I would think you would see most difference from a set of lower control arms, subframe connectors, torque arm (for hard accel.), strut tower brace, and maybe even lowering the car a little. Think about some bilstein shocks or something along those lines, and maybe some good tires to stay on the road . All of this will tighten the car up.
Last edited by Fixxer99TA; 08-12-2008 at 12:02 AM.
#17
I havent used Koni's or UMI, so others will have to comment on those.... If I remember the Koni's are adjustable so that would be a plus. Most of my suspension stuff is either BMR or Hotchkiss.
#18
UMI makes some amazing pieces IMO I've had great luck with their products and only run and will only ever run their suspension components on my car. I have only heard good about the Konis and wish I had the money to get a set. If you do some searching in the suspension forum you will see UMI is regarded as the best or one of and the Konis seem to be the "God" of shocks.
#20
UMI makes some amazing pieces IMO I've had great luck with their products and only run and will only ever run their suspension components on my car. I have only heard good about the Konis and wish I had the money to get a set. If you do some searching in the suspension forum you will see UMI is regarded as the best or one of and the Konis seem to be the "God" of shocks.