So I want to go with a different cam than my COMP 306 when I rebuild my motor.

I am not crazy about getting more topend power, although it would be nice, but I would just like to get better driveability out of this motor.

I have heard that the GM847 makes more power but is not better as far as driveability is concerned.

My car makes 350rwtq by 3000rpm and hits 300rwhp@ around 4100 with peaks of 388rwhp and 381rwtq.

I was looking into getting an LE3 Cam, or maybe even a Bret Bauer cam, but haven't really had any luck with getting some specs out of anyone.

I just really don't want a cam with like 110 LSA as that will more than likely have more of a drivability issue than I already have.

Apparently LLoyd Elliot won't sell me a LE3 cam because I'd have to buy the heads- which I don't need (my heads flow 290 cfm on the intake already).

So, Are there any other options out there? I just want a little more lift, with some tighter lobes maybe- ANY recommendations appreciated. BUT if you are gonna recommend something, don't just give me peak #'s.

 

I think your best bet is to get a custom grind from Bret Bauer or Advanced Induction. They wont give you specs until you pay them but they will take your information on the car and what you want (good drivability etc.) and I think you would be pleased. My cam is from Bret and is a 224/230 on a 107lsa and the drivability is great so the lsa isn't going to be the number one determinent of drivability necessarily.

 

my gm847 is very driveable. Other than the power it behaves similar to stock.

keep in mind i have stock heads 1.52 rockers and total lift is only in the mid 500's because of the RR's

 

110 is not bad if the rest of the specs are right.

If the heads really flowed 290 and that number meant as much as you think it does your car would make MUCH more power. I have an AI cam smaller than the 306 duration and exhaust lift wise and heads that flow 275cfm and making more power than yours at the wheels through an automatic.

The cams you are looking at are larger duration, if anything they are going to improve topend. Slow down and start trying to apply knowledge instead of money, your current approch is not working well. With the right ported LT1 heads and a SMALLER duration cam you would have 40hp more at the wheels.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/836947-ai200-cc-heads-cam-stock-bottom-end-dyno-s-429rwhp.html

 

Just curious. You have a cam, alot smaller than the Comp 306 making close to 390 at the wheels through an A4? WOW! I'd like to see that dyno sheet. Thats impressive!

 

Go easy killer.

"My current approach isn't working"?

Never lost to an N/A LT1 yet and I've ran a ton of um, but hey, whatever. I also DID NOT choose the parts for this car, I bought it that way. Only things I have changed are shorties to longtubes, Intake elbow, and injectors.


DID I FAIL TO MENTION that the last dyno/re-tune was with 60,000 miles on the heads/springs with no adjustments ever?

When I bought the car the owner handed me a dyno sheet that read 386rwhp @ 6350 rpm and 360rwtq (don't remember rpm)

When I re-tuned it for the injectors, I only picked up 2 rwhp on the top end, but picked up 21 rwtq at peak and over 30rwtq @ 3000 rpm. I also hit 200 rwhp 500 rpm's earlier (3000 rpm) and hit 300rwhp 400 rpm's earlier (4100 rpm) SO the accelerated HP is there.I've picked up significant power all the way across the board but am not realizing the top end power because of the valve float.

HOWEVER because the springs are shot and the valves were floating about 6k rpms, the motor is not able to reach its redline//peak right now. I mean the car made 386rwp @ 6350 rpm with 70k on the shortblock and the new top end rebuild- then made 388rwhp @ 5800 rpm. So I am not getting anything out of the last 500 rpms that used to be there. I mean changing out the headers, intake elbow and injectors should give me more upper rpm room if anything, so I am assuming the springs are definately shot.

BUT- thanks for your input. It would be nice though, if when someone posts a thread about something, that people would just give a straight answer instead of trying to tell me I have all the wrong parts on the car.

I am going to rebuild the bottom end of the motor and REFUSE to install a SMALLER cam in the block if I am going to spend the money to rebuild it. Maybe I'll just go with the Advanced Induction 575/575 and be done with it.

 

Not a lot smaller but smaller, closer to the 503.

Don't have a dyno sheet but the 112/113mph traps in a car this weight say 390-410 depending on what calculator people use. Unlocked 3400Edge, mechanical WP, mailorder tune 12.2-7afr 6100-6250 shift points, zero spark adjustments from the base mailorder tune from CAM, 1 5/8" midlenghs 2.5" to the bumper. I tried shifting a little higher but ET suffered, the 3.73s have it at like 5600rpms through the traps.
Stock Caprice front tires and rims.
I can shoot you a PM when I come to GLD late fall for the good weather and track prep. Not best MPH but is best ET to date.

 

I guess I misunderstood.

To me that sounded like you wanted a smaller cam.

I have left a few stroker owners making excuses, including one or two of Lloyd's customers. At that time I had 50K on the stock shortblock 10K on the heads and valvesprings. Best I can tell from the datamaster logs is it peaks about 6100rpms.

 

If you want more low end and drivability, a cam with less duration is a good place to start. An LE3 can would not be what you want but we could get you something that would work like you want.

you have to understand "96 CarCraftMGR" got his heads and cam set up for 1/2 price in exchange for mentioning AI in every post he can. That will explain alot for people.

I don't believe "96CarCraftMGR" has raced Stumpy or Handyman with there LE set ups.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=187431

that is a 224 duration cam.

Handeyman did not even have to pull the seats, bumper and even the belt to get a 11.75 pass. Some have to disassemble the car just to get in the 11's at all and usually run 12.30's in good weather and 12.7-12.8 in the heat.

here is Dwaynes run down of his 11 second pass. . . . .
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Had both bars off, airbags at 20/25psi, borrowed Scott's Centerline's with 26" QTPs and ran 12.3s with the belt on. Pulled the belt and ran 12.0 we were floored, ran like that a couple more times still doing 12.0 and I said the hell with it and started pulling weight and uncorked the exhaust. juicedimpss started lining my up on the sticky part of the starting line which by this late was getting poor and I managed the two 11 second passes. Uncorking the exhaust and pulling the seats honestly did very little but were just enough to put me over the edge. I need to spend some time on the tuning as there has been ZERO timing tweaks since the baseline mailorder tune. Still running 15" Caprice alloys up front too not skinnies yet.

No ice and honestly the 11.95 was a hotlap after the 11.96, I mean straight back to the staging lanes with no wait, one was at 3:48 and the other at 3:53.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

No doubt the car is running well and a mid 12 seond B body with a 228/234 cam is pretty impressive. Kinda seems a lil different when reading ALL the facts instead of his version of "I drove it to the track, unloaded the wife and kids, unhooked my boat in the staging lanes and blasted down the track with an 11 second pass", LOL.

Lloyd

 

Lloyd, please stop the blatant lies about my car. I did not get my parts for half price, and am not running the 228 cam, the cam I have is smaller. I have told you this before.

My fastest pass is actually through mufflers.

Far as details, let's get this straight, you want to compare my true driver to 12 second bolton cars that used your heads on 353/355s and you call that fair?? One trailer queen the owner says is not streetable and the other that put 600 miles on a torque converter in over a year. Compared to my 8K mile a year driver. I'm flattered, thank you.


For the record, I went a little faster last year through mufflers.

Here are the details on the cars Lloyd is comparing too. Both are competitive bracket cars. The one car is listed twice because he breifly ran the LE stuff on a "stock" shortblock http://dan.esteban.com/impalass/Retu...&CompareID=437

These two owners deserve the credit for their cars performance, both guys made them go 12s with boltons, I only ever managed 13.2 with the old zz4 cammed setup.

 

Hahaha Lloyd, 96CarCraftMGR.... And yes that comment about the AI stuff does explain alot....

But to answer the OPs question, I agree with whoever said go with a custom grind before me... If you already have a 306 and want more power + better driveability then your no doubt going to have to go custom.

Good thing theres lots of selection out there, you shouldent have a problem finding (or having them find) something you like...

 

sorry Dwayne, it just seemed common knowledge to the B body and Impala community that you recieved the parts at 1/2 price. I have been told that by lots of people. Maybe it was 40% off or a smaller dicount and the truth got strethed before it reached my ears.

I also meant to type "226/234" as your cam specs but I was heading for bed on my last post and I guess I was a lil "fat fingered".

I'll admit that the cars are set up better than yours although your gears and 3400 stall helps the track times alot on your car as well. I do not think Handyman is running much more gear/stall than you and the race weight would be similar to when you stripped the car down and made the pits look like a "swap meet" so that far is comparable.

My point was that there is always a car that is set up better or set up worse with "who evers" heads installed. There are some LE headed set ups you have beaten and there are some AI headed set ups that have been beaten by Handyman, Stumpy and HeavySS. It is all in the set up (gear, weight, stall, complimenting parts, attention to detail, dedication to getting things ironed out from datalogging, etc, etc) and the heads/cam are just along for the ride for the most part to take all the credit/blame for the way the car runs.

I just thought that I would try my hand at posting like "96CarCraftMGR" and making it seem like all the facts are there when there is always more to the story.

Lloyd

 

OK Lloyd, if the LE3 cam is not for me, How does the LE2 cam compare in terms of drivability and power to the CC306? Can you PM me what you think would be best for my car?
I am happy with the power I have currently, but don't want to take a step backwards- so in this case I'd like to go with something that is a tad more aggressive on the lift and duration (don't want to sacrifice duration for drivability- looking for a happy medium) but I was thinking the tighter lobe separation might help- maybe the ramp rate of the cam? I don't know.

The reason I'd like to go with tighter lobe separation is for boost. I have a 228/228- .588/.588 on a 114 LSA on my LS1 and the thing idles at 675 no problem with tons of vacuum- and drives extremely smooth in comparison to my LT1. The LT1 has to idle around 975 -1000 rpm otherwise it runs crappy for a DD.

I will also be going with either a 150 shot and/or perhaps a STS turbo setup in the future, so I'd like to stay tight on the LSA aas to not bleed off cylinder pressure.

For now I've decided to change the springs and re-dyno to see how she pulls so I can get some accurate 6400 RPM power readings.

 

PM sent.

Lloyd

 

96carcraftmgr, now thats some really funny shiet!!!!! and the deal on the parts really does explain all the pushed AI advertisement/recomendations!!

 

well yes and no..the very same happens with others.....
AI does very good work and makes very strong power for the money
LE has very good combos as well,especially for not being a BIG operation,you definately get your moneys worth..
so in short if you are satisfied with whomever you choose to purchase from you should represent for them. it can be done without dissing the competition!

 

well said!

 

Looks like Lloyd is gonna help me out here guys. Thanks for the advice as well as the laughs.

I know A/I makes some good products but to tell you the truth I'd trust Lloyd when it comes to cams over their pretty basic grinds. I've just seen a ton of really healthy #'s out of Lloyd's setups.

-Matt

 

And I think you mean "wider" LSA instead of "tighter".

 

Check out my sig. I was running the LE2 cam(stock unported heads) on my old car, and it ran fairly well for what it was. Those track #'s were with the old tune, failing fuel system, ignition issues, and shifting problems. All I can say is it drove perfect after I got the tune dialed in along with the new fuel system. This new car I just got has the cc306 cam and ported heads, but I hate the power band. I loved how well my old setup drove compared to this car.

Lloyd, I'll be contacting you soon for a H/C setup. In this 2900lbs car with full suspension, I'm shooting for times similar to Javier97Z's setup in the teal Z28.