aluminum driveshaft?
#22
#24
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...fety-Loop.html
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
http://www.lmperformance.com/4053/17.html
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10061_-1_10057
You can also get them as part of a chassis-mount torque arm.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
http://www.lmperformance.com/4053/17.html
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10061_-1_10057
You can also get them as part of a chassis-mount torque arm.
#26
Same here. Works out quite well actually.
I use the Spohn torque arm with a crossmember designed to accomodate long-tube headers.
The only issue I had was the exhaust rattling on it under hard acceleration.
We fixed that real quick, my exhaust guy just inserted a little S-bend in the I pipe.
Have not had an issue since.
I use the Spohn torque arm with a crossmember designed to accomodate long-tube headers.
The only issue I had was the exhaust rattling on it under hard acceleration.
We fixed that real quick, my exhaust guy just inserted a little S-bend in the I pipe.
Have not had an issue since.
#31
16 lbs - Stock steel LT1 driveshaft
12.2 lbs - 3rd gen aluminum 1LE driveshaft
11.5 lbs - Stock aluminum LS1 driveshaft
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/camaro...f-body-weight/
About 4.5lbs.
Dyno and comments : http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm
#34
Yes, and held up in the middle with a bracket on the torque arm.
I never quite understood why GM went that route with the V6s.
It may have had something to do with the 3.4L being a 60* motor.
Either way, I saw no issues with swapping them with 1pc.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...dy/Drivetrain/
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyDrivetrain.htm
http://www.jegs.com/customerservice/...eShaftForm.pdf
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c30_driveshafts.html
I never quite understood why GM went that route with the V6s.
It may have had something to do with the 3.4L being a 60* motor.
Either way, I saw no issues with swapping them with 1pc.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyDrivetrain.htm
http://www.jegs.com/customerservice/...eShaftForm.pdf
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c30_driveshafts.html
#36
11 Second Club
iTrader: (88)
I have solver that problem for now by welding a piece of steel to it and making it kind of like a Skid Plate.
#37
I'm running the UMI Performance setup..the only problem I had was almost tearing off the Cross Member that bolts to the Tunnel Brace. I hit a rock that was under the pavement on a backroad and it almost got it.
I have solver that problem for now by welding a piece of steel to it and making it kind of like a Skid Plate.
I have solver that problem for now by welding a piece of steel to it and making it kind of like a Skid Plate.
Bent the **** out of it; too weak and hung too low.
Solved that problem by installing the Spohn unit.
I don't think I'll be able to bend this one, I do like the skidplate idea though.
#38
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (22)
Damn when I bought my Spohn stuff 4 years ago I should bought the one with the DS loop. Wonder what my best option is now to add one. Its the lowest part of the car, scrapes off things sometimes, I've never hit anything where I thought I would tear it off though! I think mine is plenty sturdy, I have the SLP subframe connectors too.
DS is def. worth it, seeing as its cheap. If your just building a cruiser like stated, its all the driveshaft you are ever going to need.
DS is def. worth it, seeing as its cheap. If your just building a cruiser like stated, its all the driveshaft you are ever going to need.
#40
Damn when I bought my Spohn stuff 4 years ago I should bought the one with the DS loop. Wonder what my best option is now to add one. Its the lowest part of the car, scrapes off things sometimes, I've never hit anything where I thought I would tear it off though! I think mine is plenty sturdy, I have the SLP subframe connectors too.
DS is def. worth it, seeing as its cheap. If your just building a cruiser like stated, its all the driveshaft you are ever going to need.
DS is def. worth it, seeing as its cheap. If your just building a cruiser like stated, its all the driveshaft you are ever going to need.
If you have a tranny-mounted torque arm, you can simply add a loop (replaces the tunnel brace)
I had originally bought mine as a non-LT setup.
They got me the parts I needed to convert it, I sold the old parts
to someone who just wanted a DS loop. Worked out well.