LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

aluminum driveshaft?

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Old 09-02-2008, 10:35 PM
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Isnt a DS safety loop almost mandatory at all tracks with slicks or radials?

Or just mine?
Old 09-03-2008, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Fixxer99TA
Isnt a DS safety loop almost mandatory at all tracks with slicks or radials?

Or just mine?
Mandatory below 14.00 on slicks.
Mandatory below 11.49 on street tires.

A good idea for any car you race.
Old 09-03-2008, 10:17 AM
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where can you get a ds safety loop
Old 09-03-2008, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jays97 t/a
where can you get a ds safety loop
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...fety-Loop.html
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
http://www.lmperformance.com/4053/17.html
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10061_-1_10057

You can also get them as part of a chassis-mount torque arm.
Old 09-03-2008, 10:53 AM
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You can also get them as part of a chassis-mount torque arm.
^^Thats the kind I have.
Old 09-03-2008, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Stroked96Bowtie
^^Thats the kind I have.
Same here. Works out quite well actually.
I use the Spohn torque arm with a crossmember designed to accomodate long-tube headers.
The only issue I had was the exhaust rattling on it under hard acceleration.
We fixed that real quick, my exhaust guy just inserted a little S-bend in the I pipe.
Have not had an issue since.
Old 09-03-2008, 11:05 AM
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I was going to pick up a aluminum drive shaft. And had a buddy tell me their not worth the money over the stocker. What is the weight diff between the two?
Old 09-03-2008, 11:15 AM
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i think its about 6 pounds lighter than the lt1 ds
Old 09-03-2008, 11:37 AM
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Its got to be at least 10 lbs. I was very noticable!!!
Its worth 75-125 over a stock vibrating steel LT1 DS, just to make the car run smoother at hwy speeds and its lighter.
I will upgrade when my car is running strong, but for the price the LS1 DS is mandatory IMO.
Old 09-03-2008, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by formulajunky98
I was going to pick up a aluminum drive shaft. And had a buddy tell me their not worth the money over the stocker. What is the weight diff between the two?
You need a new buddy....
Old 09-03-2008, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by formulajunky98
I was going to pick up a aluminum drive shaft. And had a buddy tell me their not worth the money over the stocker. What is the weight diff between the two?
34 lbs - Steel 2pc V6 driveshaft including center bearing carrier
16 lbs - Stock steel LT1 driveshaft
12.2 lbs - 3rd gen aluminum 1LE driveshaft
11.5 lbs - Stock aluminum LS1 driveshaft
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/camaro...f-body-weight/


About 4.5lbs.

Dyno and comments : http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm
Old 09-03-2008, 12:40 PM
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Holy crap, those poor V6s and their 34 pound driveshaft
Old 09-03-2008, 12:41 PM
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Where Would You Find A Beefy Aluminum Ds Or A Cromoly Ds?? And Not Specifically For An F Body??

Any Help Is Greatly Appreciated.
Old 09-03-2008, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fixxer99TA
Holy crap, those poor V6s and their 34 pound driveshaft
Yes, and held up in the middle with a bracket on the torque arm.
I never quite understood why GM went that route with the V6s.
It may have had something to do with the 3.4L being a 60* motor.
Either way, I saw no issues with swapping them with 1pc.

Originally Posted by WHITEBOY_ZACH
Where Would You Find A Beefy Aluminum Ds Or A Cromoly Ds?? And Not Specifically For An F Body??

Any Help Is Greatly Appreciated.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1993-1997-...dy/Drivetrain/
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyDrivetrain.htm
http://www.jegs.com/customerservice/...eShaftForm.pdf
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c30_driveshafts.html
Old 09-03-2008, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by James Montigny
Yes, and held up in the middle with a bracket on the torque arm.
I never quite understood why GM went that route with the V6s.
It may have had something to do with the 3.4L being a 60* motor.
Either way, I saw no issues with swapping them with 1pc.
True, It has to be... Why else would they need an elaborate 2pc thats so heavy?
Old 09-03-2008, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by James Montigny
Same here. Works out quite well actually.
I use the Spohn torque arm with a crossmember designed to accomodate long-tube headers.
I'm running the UMI Performance setup..the only problem I had was almost tearing off the Cross Member that bolts to the Tunnel Brace. I hit a rock that was under the pavement on a backroad and it almost got it.
I have solver that problem for now by welding a piece of steel to it and making it kind of like a Skid Plate.
Old 09-03-2008, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
I'm running the UMI Performance setup..the only problem I had was almost tearing off the Cross Member that bolts to the Tunnel Brace. I hit a rock that was under the pavement on a backroad and it almost got it.
I have solver that problem for now by welding a piece of steel to it and making it kind of like a Skid Plate.
Yeah, i did that with my BMR (not the torque arm one, the standalone one).
Bent the **** out of it; too weak and hung too low.



Solved that problem by installing the Spohn unit.

I don't think I'll be able to bend this one, I do like the skidplate idea though.
Old 09-03-2008, 08:20 PM
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Damn when I bought my Spohn stuff 4 years ago I should bought the one with the DS loop. Wonder what my best option is now to add one. Its the lowest part of the car, scrapes off things sometimes, I've never hit anything where I thought I would tear it off though! I think mine is plenty sturdy, I have the SLP subframe connectors too.

DS is def. worth it, seeing as its cheap. If your just building a cruiser like stated, its all the driveshaft you are ever going to need.
Old 09-03-2008, 08:29 PM
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That looks like a nice sturdy piece, going to have to pick one up in the next couple weeks.
Old 09-03-2008, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by camar0corey
Damn when I bought my Spohn stuff 4 years ago I should bought the one with the DS loop. Wonder what my best option is now to add one. Its the lowest part of the car, scrapes off things sometimes, I've never hit anything where I thought I would tear it off though! I think mine is plenty sturdy, I have the SLP subframe connectors too.

DS is def. worth it, seeing as its cheap. If your just building a cruiser like stated, its all the driveshaft you are ever going to need.
Spohn will sell the parts you need to convert a non-DS-loop chassis torque arm to one with the loop.
If you have a tranny-mounted torque arm, you can simply add a loop (replaces the tunnel brace)

I had originally bought mine as a non-LT setup.
They got me the parts I needed to convert it, I sold the old parts
to someone who just wanted a DS loop. Worked out well.


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