aluminum driveshaft?
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From: clear lake, iowa
aluminum driveshaft? hey guys, just been reading that a lot of you guys are putting aluminum driveshafts on your lt1 cars. however, it seems like most of you that do go to the strip a lot. my question is, is it a worthwhile investment for a weekend cruiser? i'm trying to make the ride as smooth as possible so any ideas on suspension setups for a delightful ride are welcome as well, haha. thanks!
In 98 I was told (by a Pontiac mechanic) that if a 97 (LT-1) had a vibration problem to put a 98 (aluminum) driveshaft on the car to fix the problem.
I run a Strange chromoly driveshaft, which has no vibration issues. And I have had the car up to almost 150 mph (once, it was scary so I let off).
Personally, if you have to buy a driveshaft, I would go aftermarket rather than a factory aluminum driveshaft. JMHO.
I run a Strange chromoly driveshaft, which has no vibration issues. And I have had the car up to almost 150 mph (once, it was scary so I let off).
Personally, if you have to buy a driveshaft, I would go aftermarket rather than a factory aluminum driveshaft. JMHO.
In 98 I was told (by a Pontiac mechanic) that if a 97 (LT-1) had a vibration problem to put a 98 (aluminum) driveshaft on the car to fix the problem.
I run a Strange chromoly driveshaft, which has no vibration issues. And I have had the car up to almost 150 mph (once, it was scary so I let off).
Personally, if you have to buy a driveshaft, I would go aftermarket rather than a factory aluminum driveshaft. JMHO.
I run a Strange chromoly driveshaft, which has no vibration issues. And I have had the car up to almost 150 mph (once, it was scary so I let off).
Personally, if you have to buy a driveshaft, I would go aftermarket rather than a factory aluminum driveshaft. JMHO.
In 98 I was told (by a Pontiac mechanic) that if a 97 (LT-1) had a vibration problem to put a 98 (aluminum) driveshaft on the car to fix the problem.
I run a Strange chromoly driveshaft, which has no vibration issues. And I have had the car up to almost 150 mph (once, it was scary so I let off).
Personally, if you have to buy a driveshaft, I would go aftermarket rather than a factory aluminum driveshaft. JMHO.
I run a Strange chromoly driveshaft, which has no vibration issues. And I have had the car up to almost 150 mph (once, it was scary so I let off).
Personally, if you have to buy a driveshaft, I would go aftermarket rather than a factory aluminum driveshaft. JMHO.
Ps if you are looking to make the ride smoother I highly recommend not lowering the car, i had the eibach kit in for about 3 days before I was compelled to remove and sell it. Looked badass made the ride crapass
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not sure what that meant, but this is what I think you said, Your Dad switched from a stock alum ls1 DS to a cromoly DS and went slower? Or Did he go fastester with the cromoly?
Two changes I made that made a SIGNIFICANT difference were the LS1 driveshaft and KYB AGX shocks. Both made the car much smoother and drivable. If you're patient, you can find a DS for less than $100 - which is a better investment than many other mods.
Aluminum shaft swaps are quick and easy.
It will reduce parasitic hp loss in the drive train and reduce vibrations at higher RPM.
I've done these on dozens of cars for people over the years.
It's a bigger deal for the 3.4 crowd because they had a big heavy 2-pc steel shaft.
Guys running 11sec or better tend to trade those in on chromeoly or beefier aftermarket aluminum shafts.
Even the 3" LS1 shafts tend to shred under 1.5 launches LOL
Expect to pay $75-125 for one (used)
They pop up on ebay and in the classifieds a lot.
All 82-02 shafts (auto or manual, v6 or v8) are interchangeable.
And remember to install a new Ujoint as part of the project, it's cheap insurance.
It will reduce parasitic hp loss in the drive train and reduce vibrations at higher RPM.
I've done these on dozens of cars for people over the years.
It's a bigger deal for the 3.4 crowd because they had a big heavy 2-pc steel shaft.
Guys running 11sec or better tend to trade those in on chromeoly or beefier aftermarket aluminum shafts.
Even the 3" LS1 shafts tend to shred under 1.5 launches LOL
Expect to pay $75-125 for one (used)
They pop up on ebay and in the classifieds a lot.
All 82-02 shafts (auto or manual, v6 or v8) are interchangeable.
And remember to install a new Ujoint as part of the project, it's cheap insurance.
Last edited by James Montigny; Sep 2, 2008 at 07:24 PM.
Shreading one I can see, going slower I cant.
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From: clear lake, iowa
cool, thanks guys! i'm not in any hurry to do it but it sounds like that's going to be the next thing i pick up for my car! i can't give up on the lowering springs, haha. i love how it looks too much to raise her back up
because of it twisting with alot of TQ slows the 60ft time down he went from running a 1.51 60ft to like a 1.6 just by changing the d/s
Low 1.6s all day on 4.10s and slicks...still holding up!!
The good thing is if you do break one...they are cheap to replace
Ive got a backup in the corner of the garage just waiting
^^Thats an interesting point!
The good thing is if you do break one...they are cheap to replace
Ive got a backup in the corner of the garage just waiting^^Thats an interesting point!
When they break (U joint, middle or yoke) they beat the **** out of the tunnel, exhaust and torque arm.