aluminum driveshaft?
09-03-2008, 11:10 PM
#42
I only suggest changing the U-joint since it's cheap and easy while the shaft is out.
I'd much rather invest $10-20 at the time of install than find out about missing or broken
U-joint bearings at the track or on a long cruise.
09-03-2008, 11:13 PM
#43
Spohn will sell the parts you need to convert a non-DS-loop chassis torque arm to one with the loop.
If you have a tranny-mounted torque arm, you can simply add a loop (replaces the tunnel brace)
I had originally bought mine as a non-LT setup.
They got me the parts I needed to convert it, I sold the old parts
to someone who just wanted a DS loop. Worked out well.
If you have a tranny-mounted torque arm, you can simply add a loop (replaces the tunnel brace)
I had originally bought mine as a non-LT setup.
They got me the parts I needed to convert it, I sold the old parts
to someone who just wanted a DS loop. Worked out well.
My UMI also looks very sturdy. Im think my car would bend b4 it does
Got any pics of your skid plate???
11-24-2008, 09:50 PM
#54
11-24-2008, 09:52 PM
#55
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11-24-2008, 10:14 PM
#58
i wouldnt recommend on the street, but year u can do it on jackstands... its easy just get her up high enough to get under.... MAKE SURE ITS SAFE... shift the tranny from N to Park while undoing the bolts on the rear end of the driveshaft.... slip he rout the tranny, and then slip the new one in and reverse the operation.... i believe they were 13mm but i forget
11-24-2008, 10:15 PM
#60
Unbolt Ujoint retainers (4 bolts)
Push driveshaft into tranny about 1/2 to get it free from rear end
Pull out of tranny, watch for trans fluid drip
Install new shaft
It's literally a 20 min job ... and only if you drop the shaft on your forhead head and cuss for 5 min of that LOL