aluminum driveshaft?
hahaha OMFG i thought i was the only person who thought that... i was a bit worried but one 3/4 throttle up the street with open headers cooled my senses
... i have had 0 issues with the driveshaft... good easy cheap mod IMO, great one for Newbs like myself to do on their own and feel satisfied about 
...Raise car on jackstands.
Unbolt Ujoint retainers (4 bolts)
Push driveshaft into tranny about 1/2 to get it free from rear end
Pull out of tranny, watch for trans fluid drip
Install new shaft
It's literally a 20 min job ... and only if you drop the shaft on your forhead head and cuss for 5 min of that LOL
Unbolt Ujoint retainers (4 bolts)
Push driveshaft into tranny about 1/2 to get it free from rear end
Pull out of tranny, watch for trans fluid drip
Install new shaft
It's literally a 20 min job ... and only if you drop the shaft on your forhead head and cuss for 5 min of that LOL
Aluminum shaft swaps are quick and easy.
It will reduce parasitic hp loss in the drive train and reduce vibrations at higher RPM.
I've done these on dozens of cars for people over the years.
It's a bigger deal for the 3.4 crowd because they had a big heavy 2-pc steel shaft.
Guys running 11sec or better tend to trade those in on chromeoly or beefier aftermarket aluminum shafts.
Even the 3" LS1 shafts tend to shred under 1.5 launches LOL
Expect to pay $75-125 for one (used)
They pop up on ebay and in the classifieds a lot.
All 82-02 shafts (auto or manual, v6 or v8) are interchangeable.
And remember to install a new Ujoint as part of the project, it's cheap insurance.
It will reduce parasitic hp loss in the drive train and reduce vibrations at higher RPM.
I've done these on dozens of cars for people over the years.
It's a bigger deal for the 3.4 crowd because they had a big heavy 2-pc steel shaft.
Guys running 11sec or better tend to trade those in on chromeoly or beefier aftermarket aluminum shafts.
Even the 3" LS1 shafts tend to shred under 1.5 launches LOL
Expect to pay $75-125 for one (used)
They pop up on ebay and in the classifieds a lot.
All 82-02 shafts (auto or manual, v6 or v8) are interchangeable.
And remember to install a new Ujoint as part of the project, it's cheap insurance.
Last edited by gold98Z28; Dec 6, 2008 at 10:57 PM.
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
My car will probably never see the track. I'm just gathering info because I definitely want to get a new driveshaft. My car used to vibrate pretty bad starting around 70mph. I'll probably get something new, as opposed to used. From what I've been able to determine, a new LS1 shaft is well over 300. I was just curious if the Lingenfelter shaft was superior in comparison. I've heard some people have had issues with 3.5" shafts coupled with 3" catbacks, so that's something else I have to consider. I guess Denny's, or another company, could make a 3" aluminum shaft.
Dude just buy a used LS1 shaft. Dont waste money on a new one. Mine was a night and Day difference over the stocker.
BTW I weighed my ls1 shaft with u-joints and yoke it was 13.22LBs on a digital scale at UPS b4 boxing and shipping it out.
BTW I weighed my ls1 shaft with u-joints and yoke it was 13.22LBs on a digital scale at UPS b4 boxing and shipping it out.
yea x222 on not wasting ur money dude.... get a used ls1 shaft off a 65k mile ls1 or something... night and day difference with vibration... and im sure it cant hurt performance wise....
I just snagged a 1LE LT1 Aluminum DS out of the Classifieds section for $110 shipped. I got it for my Car as a backup, it has a 1350 U-Joint on it already too, so it's a direct bolt-in to my 9". 
Bought mine used with maybe 500 miles on it for dirt nothing
