yea i used 0 gauge wire with no problems. i used the BMR mounting braket to hide the battery in the spare tire storage place. you might wanna think about swithching to a sealed batery like an optima since the batteries in the car now and if that acid battery reptures or leaks it's gonna leave a huge mess. i have the yellow top optima theyre kinda pricey but worth it.

 

I kept the same setup that I had posted with in this thread.. I used some 2Ga on the Neg. Terminal instead of the Grounding Strap that I had on it. The 4Ga that I have still goes to the positive junction block, it starts up and runs without any problems.

I know alot of you guys are building race setups, I'm just running mine for street use.

 

Having starting issues. I ran 2Ga from the battery to the distribution block. I think 4Ga from the alt to the distribution block and also the same for the starter. I have a ground in the back on the chassis. Also I have one on the engine bay. Please help!

 

I would put another one on the Engine, with mine I have 2 Grounds on the Engine.. the Ground Strap on the driver's side, and a 8Ga bolted from the Block to the Frame Rail on the passenger's side.

 

I am in the process of doing this right now and I think I have read every post on this subject. I have one question. If NHRA rules say you turn the switch off and that cuts off all the power, then if the alternator and the positive side of the battery are hooked together on the switch, then won't you still be getting power to the alternator? The other side on most of the diagrams I've seen have a cable running to the starter and the other post is where the positive side of the battery and the alternator are. Would this not still feed to the alternator? Am I incorrect in thinking that maybe the alternator and the starter should be on one post and the battery on the other so that when it is turned off, it shuts everything off. I am definitely electronically challenged so any help any of you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

you need to keep the alt power feed on the same side as the battery, if you have it on the other side it would still be putting power out and let the engine run. even if the battery is killed, disconnect your battery while your car is running it will keep on going. you dont need a battery after teh car is started the alt does everything.

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I have been doing a lot of searching on battery relocation and this has been one of the most informative threads that I have found.

With the NHRA ruling identifying that the battery switch needs to cutoff all power, I am wondering if the alternator power to the battery can be cutoff in a different manner.

In thinking out of the box, instead of bringing a #4 cable from the alternator, back to the battery side of the cutoff switch, I am thinking of going a different route, but need some more knowledgeable input before I proceed.

As the LS1 alternator has a "Generator Turn ON Signal" (R15 output from the PCM) to enable the alternator output charging, can this input to the alternator also be used to disable the alternator output? If it can be used without damaging the alternator or PCM, here is my idea.

Install a 12VDC relay with the coil leads between the two points of the cutoff switch itself. When the cutoff switch is closed, the relay would see 0 volts across its coil and be de-energized; when the cutoff switch is open, the relay would see 12 volts across its coil and energize. The second part of teh circuit is that this relays contact is in series with the "Generator Turn ON Signal" between the PCM and the alternator. When the cutoff switch is open, the relay energizes and opens the "Generator Turn ON Signal" disabling the alternator output. If this works without any issues, there would no longer be a need to run a seperate cable from the alternator to the cutoff switch. At this point, this is all theory, so I cannot confirm if the alternator will function in the manner I have indicated. If the cutoff switch is used to disconnect the battery when storing the vehicle, you would also have to pull the relay to prevent any discharge.

I realize in the current method with having the cable running from the alternator to the battery will provide slightly less voltage drop between the alternator and the battery for charging than it would backfeeding the alternator power through the main power lead going to the engine bay, but the difference in voltage at the battery should be negligible.

Currently I have a 1/0 running from my battery cutoff switch to my distribution point in my engine bay. From the disctribution point, I have a 1/0running to my starter and I am going to use a #4 to the alternator.

Would this method be suitable to meet the NHRA rules, or am I missing something?

 

I think it would be best to run the full sized wire all the way back, that in the event of something happening you can manually break the circuit to the entire car back there rather than tell a relay to energize or not.


less parts=less problems

 

That will not turn on the relay. You need power and ground to turn on a relay, not power and nothing.

 

Use a two pole switch:

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Batter...e-p-13995.html

Just the first thing I found. Speedway, Jeg's and Summit all have them. You can't cut it off with a relay, this is the only way.

Al 95 Z28