torque converter question
#1
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I'm new to torque conerters and I was just wondering if anyone could explain to me how they work and how they are when driving...just trying to understand how to use them when I get one put in my car, thanks in advance guys!
#4
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IF you get a good one, the car will feel mostly stock as far as accelerating slowly. It will grab WELL before the stall rating. If you brake torque it up it also will not go up to the stall rating. The only time it goes up there is when you mash it.
My car drives perfectly normal in normal driving. When I mash the gas however, it is incredible. It flashes up to 3200 and I TAKE OFF.
I had a cheaper converter before this one and it was MUCH looser in normal driving. But when I got on it, it too pulled VERY hard. It's night and day in performance driving.
The better quality converter you get, the better normal driving will be.
One of the cooler things I've noticed is when you give it some extra gas low in the rpm range the rpms jump up and you feel the acceleration but the RPMs stay where they jumped up to until the tranny catches up to the engine speed.
Only bad thing, is the car still feels really slow from a roll.
If you have any specific questions, spit them out.
My car drives perfectly normal in normal driving. When I mash the gas however, it is incredible. It flashes up to 3200 and I TAKE OFF.
I had a cheaper converter before this one and it was MUCH looser in normal driving. But when I got on it, it too pulled VERY hard. It's night and day in performance driving.
The better quality converter you get, the better normal driving will be.
One of the cooler things I've noticed is when you give it some extra gas low in the rpm range the rpms jump up and you feel the acceleration but the RPMs stay where they jumped up to until the tranny catches up to the engine speed.
Only bad thing, is the car still feels really slow from a roll.
If you have any specific questions, spit them out.
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Like if I'm racing at the 1/4 mile track can I sit on the line and have my brake held down and get the rpms up to say 3200 if I have a 3200 stall and then when I let off the brake will it then launch better than without one?
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do a search and read as much as you can
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=stall
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I get better 60s stalling it up as high as i can. I tried flashing it and could only get 1.8. Tires r 275/50/15 M/t drag radials on Welds just incase someone wants to say more tire.
#9
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When you do that the converter will go up to about 1000 rpms or more below the advertised stall before it starts to move the car.
The only way to get it to jump to the advertised stall is to "flash stall" it. Meaning from idle or very close to it where you stop on it.
From fuddle:
3. Stall-
--a. Flash Stall: Flash stall occurs when you launch dead off of idle. This is the point where the converter "flashes" to a certain RPM and climbs from there. This is often the most violent way to launch a Fuddle converter as it gives you full torque multiplication and extremely violent launches.
--b. Rated Stall: The amount of torque your setup makes directly relates to how high your Fuddle will stall. As more torque is added, more stall will be seen. At Fuddle Racing Torque Converters, we rate our converter stall speed with the assumption of 400 lb ft of input torque. If you make more, expect the converter to stall higher than advertised. If you aren't at the 400 mark yet, don't expect a full advertised stall speed out of the converter.
--c. Brake Stall: Brake stall is basically the point at which your tires will break loose and begin to spin as you have one foot on the brake and one on the throttle. With so many variables have to do with brake stall, from gear ratio, vehicle weight, brake condition, and many others, that it is almost impossible to accurately rate brake stall. As a general rule expect brake stall to be approximately 30% lower than advertised stall speed. Lower and higher have been seen, so don't be surprised if it isn't close to advertised stall. It isn't supposed to be.
--a. Flash Stall: Flash stall occurs when you launch dead off of idle. This is the point where the converter "flashes" to a certain RPM and climbs from there. This is often the most violent way to launch a Fuddle converter as it gives you full torque multiplication and extremely violent launches.
--b. Rated Stall: The amount of torque your setup makes directly relates to how high your Fuddle will stall. As more torque is added, more stall will be seen. At Fuddle Racing Torque Converters, we rate our converter stall speed with the assumption of 400 lb ft of input torque. If you make more, expect the converter to stall higher than advertised. If you aren't at the 400 mark yet, don't expect a full advertised stall speed out of the converter.
--c. Brake Stall: Brake stall is basically the point at which your tires will break loose and begin to spin as you have one foot on the brake and one on the throttle. With so many variables have to do with brake stall, from gear ratio, vehicle weight, brake condition, and many others, that it is almost impossible to accurately rate brake stall. As a general rule expect brake stall to be approximately 30% lower than advertised stall speed. Lower and higher have been seen, so don't be surprised if it isn't close to advertised stall. It isn't supposed to be.
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It will help you do nice burnouts, even if you do not have alot of power!....A torque converter will make an automatic transmission alot of fun...Just make sure you buy a good one right off the bat, as it was mentioned, the driveability will not suffer with a good converter even if the stall is 3000-3600. I have a 3400 stall converter from EDGE.
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The best way I have found to launch is to bring it up to about 1200RPM's, and then smash it when the light turns green. I had a Yank SS3600 with 3.73's, and I was cutting consistant 1.56-1.58 60ft's with the left tire a few inches in the air. I got it to pull both of them off the ground, and that's when the 10-bolt blew..