Should I spend the $230 and get a crossmember that the torque arm will bolt to? i've cracked my tailhousing in-half once alread...it just seems like it puts alot of stress on that tail housing...

 

"cracked my tailhousing in-half once alread...it just seems like it puts alot of stress on that tail housing..."

AWW comeon, this is an easy one.....

 

Yea! Just don't use a torque-arm


I would definitely move it to the cross member heh

 

I just took off my tunnel mount TA and put on a standard length
TA. I couldnt stand the Tunnel mount noise. Im sure the trans mount relocation would work much better.

 

I have a Jegs TA that bolts to the tunnel....I really like it. It was a pain to install but once it's done.....you'll never have to worry about it again.

 

What kind of noise did it make? I rode in a built 98 Z28 that had the Spohn tunnel brace setup and I didn't notice anything.

 

Yes its really a good idea to put the torque arm on the relocation bracket. Our bracket is $254.95.

 

I have the Spohn tunnel mounted one with the poly bushing and it makes a small clunck when first taking off. Doesn't bother me at all.

 

There were a few problems with it. Mine was the UMI adj. tunnel mount TA with DS safty loop #2203.
1.The rear bracket on the TA hit the tunnel over the pumpkin.
2.The floorboards flex pop and bang since its not the strongest place to mount a TA.
3.Small bumps in the road transfered to the car like you were off roading,
4.With the suspension fully dropped the DS would rub the DS loop.
5.Not to mention if you get one for true duals you loose ground clearance
6.Solid bushing at the rear make slightly more noise but not a big deal on this one
7.I also beleive you get alot more play in the DS since the trans is not directly connected to the rear end anymore causing slop in the DS.

It worked good for handeling and traction, but so does my new NON adjustable UMI standard length TA and has 0 bad sounds or road noise Its actually quiter than stock.
Car feels 100% better now and I actually 60ft better at the track with it.
If your car is lowered I would get the Adj standard length TA if not just the standard Non adj will be fine.
Im still debating on getting the trans crossmember relocation mount, but hear they can be noisy also and again doesnt directly link the rear end to the trans.
I think Ill deal with a broken tail shaft..... If that ever happens.

100% happy with the way it is now, except someday "maybe" it could break the tailshaft
Im sure the trans member is much better and that BMR pc looks like the best one.

Some of the issues could be fixed to some extent by using a slighty longer DS to eliminate slop, 3 point SFCs to help floor board flexin, taller poly trans mount to raise the DS in the DS loop a bit & pounding in the tunnel so it doesnt hit etc. Road noise transferred would still be there though and By the time your done you could have a spare trans to drop in

 

Hello,

Yes I would recommend a torque arm relocation kit for your situation.. the relocation kits have a intergrated torque arm that relocates the arm off the transmission and is a easy fix for issues like this. Please take a look at the link below for more information... The picture posted below represents a 93-97 kit for a 6-Speed transmission.

http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=131

 

I'm using a UMI Performance Tunnel-Brace Mounted Adjustable Torque Arm. It's a very nice setup. The only problem I have ran into is that where it bolts to on the car is a shitty spot from the Factory. I have actually ripped them 2 pieces of Metal off of the bottom of the Car, and I have to build some new ones when I get back. I'm going take the Interior back out of it, and make some new mounting points out of 1/8" Steel, and use 3/16" plate as the base plating to weld the 1/8" steel to. Basically I'm cutting out the old ones and some metal around it, and installing the new mounts that I'm building.

What cause this problem for me was hitting bumps in the road over time, I'm lowered and the Torque Arm Cross Member was taking the majority of the hits if I happened to bottom out. I welded on some steel to make a king of a Skid-plate on it, but that only worked for so long..

I would'nt think there would be any difference.. the Transmission Cross Member is a hell of alot more stable than the rubber Torque Arm mount that is clamped on the side of the Tail Shaft Housing.

JMO though..

 

Yes the trans mount relocation would prob work better, but the tunnel mount relocation is not a solid front mount from the TA to the mount.
Im sure that it pivots back and forth under heavy torque loads and hard breaking causing play in the DS. For instance a hard downshift and flooring it to get into your powerband. Car jumps back and then hard forward. Pulling the rear end back a the front mounting pivots back with the rear end and DS then slams forward into the rear of the trans. Very possible to what was happening.

That Umi Pc pictured would also work way better than the tunnel mount relocation type TA. It just plain sucked, Worked good performance wise, but for a DD or street car it sucked.
I think if they used a soild front mounting point clamshell type, instead of the style they do would also solve some of the problem.

 

I can see how a crossmember bolted to the sheetmetal floorboards would move around and make sounds. To hell with that! I can't imagine bolting a T/A to thin stamped sheetmetal never made to handle it.

Get yourself some bolt in subframe connectors that also hit the floorboards. The floorboard mounted trans crossmember will now have some real chassis structure to mate with. And it'll stiffen up just about everything else.

UMI has it as well as SLP. UMI's is tublar and SLP's is square and way more money than the UMI.

Looks like BMR and Spohn doesn't have it.

 

Those mounts pitured above look adjustable making no need to buy the Ajustable TA? Im might be wrong but it sure looks that way to me.
After my motor is done Ill pick up one of those and test it out.

I already have 2 pt SFCs welded in.

 

i have the umi tunnel mount adjustable t/a with the slp frame connectors ( double diamond style ) no noises at all. very happy with both. wouldn't do the tunnel mount with out the connectors.

 

these TA relocation brackets are designed to be used with a stock TA? or with some other tubular piece being sold? and what is with the seperate poly bushing on the UMI version? what else would it use the stock rubber one? I'm converting an automatic car over to manual, I already have weld in double diamond connectors it would seem that I should buy something like this but I'm not sure what's the best for a street car?

 

^^^^ Not any brand tunnel mount version^^^^^
Those ones above seem to be the best option if you want the TA off the trans. Because the trans mount area of the floor boards is stonger and the clamshell style bushing mount is not going to pivot like the tunnel mount style.
The above will work with a stock or any aftermarket stock style TA. if you get a poly bushing.

 

just to clarify, these ones listed above, are a replacement piece for the rear most trans tunnel bracket correct, not that one that the trans mount is attached 2 correct? is there a different setup that incorporates the mount onto the same bracket as the trans mount or am I totally wrong about how this works, I know I don't want the weld onto the trans tunnel type like the BMR trak pac

 

I haven't seen yours, but I think we might have you beat carnage wise:

Link:
http://lsxextreme.com/showthread.php?p=74#post74

 

Hi Guys,

There seems to be a little confusion here on the torque arms... some of you are talking about different set-ups a few aren't sure which ones. I am going to do the best I can to clarify and help anyone that is a little unsure on what set-ups we are referring too.

Tunnel Mounted Torque Arms- A tunnel mounted or body mounted torque arm is a short style torque arm that bolts approx. 14" behind the transmission crossmember into the tunnel area of the vehicle. This torque arm does not touch the transmission or transmission crossmember in anyway. Our set-up includes a mount that mounts to the body of the vehicle, it then also includes a shorter style torque arm. Below I posted a few pictures of our set-up and some installation pictures. This should help clear up what a tunnel mounted torque arm is and where it bolts at.

Tunnel Mounted Torque arm-



Tunnel Mounted Torque arm Installed-



Tunnel Mounted Torque Arm Installed w/ 3-Point SFC's



Torque Arm Relocation Kit- A torque Arm relocation kit is a new transmission crossmember with built in torque arm mount. This set-up replaces your factory transmission crossmember. It is designed to work with the factory torque arm or any torque arm that bolts into the factory location. This works excellent for customers who have purchased a new stock length torque arm but want it located off the transmission now.. instead of purchasing a entire new set-up this relocation kit will relocate the arm off the tail shaft. It also works good when exhaust set-ups do not allow for tunnel mounted arms. Please take a look at the pictures below-

Torque Arm Relocation Kit-



Torque Arm Relocation Kit installed with our standard length torque arm #2205



Torque Arm Relocation Kit installed with a LS1 T56 transmission