Car running hotter than normal, water pump going out? 200-220 degrees
10-11-2008, 05:52 PM
#21
Ya know i wondered that. When i bought it the guy at Autozone pulled up the number, walked to the SBC shelf and picked it up and said here it is. On the package it said SBC, TPI, LT1 or something like that. It def said LT1 on it though. I guess i should just order one anyway. I thought LT1s were reverse flow cooling? Would that make a difference with the theremostat?
10-11-2008, 07:50 PM
#23
Ya know i wondered that. When i bought it the guy at Autozone pulled up the number, walked to the SBC shelf and picked it up and said here it is. On the package it said SBC, TPI, LT1 or something like that. It def said LT1 on it though. I guess i should just order one anyway. I thought LT1s were reverse flow cooling? Would that make a difference with the theremostat?
10-12-2008, 07:46 AM
#28
I've already pulled the MAF sensor to send the engine into limp mode which activates both fans all the time. I pulled each relay when the fans were on too to make sure both fans were working so i know its not the fans. I drove 20 or so miles with both fans on constantly and it didnt make a difference in temp. I'll order a new thermostat then.
10-16-2008, 05:08 PM
#29
Well i ordered a Hypertech 160 a couple days ago was scheduled to be delivered today. Had a "few" beers while waiting for the UPS man. He showed up, i put the thermostat in, bled the cooling system and decided it best i not test drive it tonight. I'll report back with results tomorrow. The thermostat in there was DEFINATELY a SBC thermostat. It was short not long like the LT1s are supposed to be per Shoe box's website.
Do you think this could have been the problem? It's been in there about 8k miles maybe more. The cooling issues gradually got worse.
http://shbox.com/1/tstat.jpg
Do you think this could have been the problem? It's been in there about 8k miles maybe more. The cooling issues gradually got worse.
http://shbox.com/1/tstat.jpg
10-17-2008, 08:45 AM
#31
While I do not recommend it lots of guys have run the standard smallblock thermostat without any obvious issues.
The mechanical pump generally fails by beatrings getting loose and allowing it to beat up the seals and it slowly begins to weep which has more impact on the power steering than it does cooling because the dripping makes the belt slip.
A few guys have had the impellers come off the shaft in which case they suddenly and completely stop moving water.
If I were you I would pull the radiator and thoroughly flush it, sounds a bit like it is plugging up internally. RMI-25 is a safe and effective long term cleaner and conditioner for such things. NOT a caustic quick flush. I have had good results reviving a plugged radiator by first flushing with the garden hose and then running this stuff.
The mechanical pump generally fails by beatrings getting loose and allowing it to beat up the seals and it slowly begins to weep which has more impact on the power steering than it does cooling because the dripping makes the belt slip.
A few guys have had the impellers come off the shaft in which case they suddenly and completely stop moving water.
If I were you I would pull the radiator and thoroughly flush it, sounds a bit like it is plugging up internally. RMI-25 is a safe and effective long term cleaner and conditioner for such things. NOT a caustic quick flush. I have had good results reviving a plugged radiator by first flushing with the garden hose and then running this stuff.
10-18-2008, 12:29 AM
#32
While I do not recommend it lots of guys have run the standard smallblock thermostat without any obvious issues.
The mechanical pump generally fails by beatrings getting loose and allowing it to beat up the seals and it slowly begins to weep which has more impact on the power steering than it does cooling because the dripping makes the belt slip.
A few guys have had the impellers come off the shaft in which case they suddenly and completely stop moving water.
If I were you I would pull the radiator and thoroughly flush it, sounds a bit like it is plugging up internally. RMI-25 is a safe and effective long term cleaner and conditioner for such things. NOT a caustic quick flush. I have had good results reviving a plugged radiator by first flushing with the garden hose and then running this stuff.
The mechanical pump generally fails by beatrings getting loose and allowing it to beat up the seals and it slowly begins to weep which has more impact on the power steering than it does cooling because the dripping makes the belt slip.
A few guys have had the impellers come off the shaft in which case they suddenly and completely stop moving water.
If I were you I would pull the radiator and thoroughly flush it, sounds a bit like it is plugging up internally. RMI-25 is a safe and effective long term cleaner and conditioner for such things. NOT a caustic quick flush. I have had good results reviving a plugged radiator by first flushing with the garden hose and then running this stuff.
10-18-2008, 05:49 AM
#33
I replaced the thermostat with the Hypertech on and it FIXED IT! Woohoo thnaks guys! Now the temps dont go above the 1/4 mark. They stay right around 180 or so. Before i couldnt run with the AC on RT 1 (75mph for an hour) because the temps would climp to about 230 or so. I just assumed it was because my car is lowered 2" and have gfx on the front. I think i might take a trip on rt1 today and see if my AC causes my car to run hotter or not.
10-18-2008, 06:53 AM
#35
Yeah i did notice the new thermostat had a longer 'plunger' that extended to cover the hole in the top of the water pump where as the sbc thermostat didnt it was just a saucer shaper theremostat. In any case it works great. I didnt feel like replacing ther water pump anyway haha.
