Oh trust me, I'll be interested!

 

Love my 93 w/m29, wouldn't want any other year. I like the fact that they are speed density, no maf to look at or worry about. I think that alone makes tuning less complicated. I used Moates burn1 for a while and still have it. I have since put an autoprom in the car. I mounted it on the passenger side hush panel to keep it cool and so I could have access to it, and ran the ribbon cable through the grommet behind the ecm to the adapter board inside. I leave the autoprom in the car all the time and run the car off of it. No more chips, except for the original that is on the adapter board. I could burn my final tune to a chip and remove the ribbon cable, but I rarely drive the car so I just run off the a/p. I have my burn1 if anyone is interested.

 

ok, all this techno stuff has me confused...LOL!!! Remember I am a carb guy and just not up to speed on all the computer stuff. I will probalby do all my mods and then take it to Revxtreme or somewhere local that can tune it for me.

Right now, I just need to clean it and start removing all the crap I dont need....what a disaster it is...lol

 

Well right now, I'm REALLY interested in seeing if someone would be willing to take a look at my tune, because I've only tuned 2 cars: My 91 TPI and my 93, and before that I had never looked into tuning! All I've learned, and done, was based off reading on the net. I have no way to log and so I have no idea if what I've done is good or not. Mind you, there was a noticeable change in performance, so I did SOMETHING right lol

So if either of you, Puck or Rkinney, has some free time to give it a quick look through, I'd love you in the most non-gay manner possible!!

I'll attach them to this msg.

6th Tune is the one that's in my car, 9th is the most recent one I've effed with after talking a bit to Mr Shepherd. Sadly he had no time to look at it, but we talked and he gave me some info. I know my BLMs are a bit high (138ish) and I have some slight knock in the (guessing since it's been awhile that I've drove my car and the trans is not in it right now heh) 5000-5800 range (could be starting around 4800). Even with higher octane, it's there, just not as prominent. So I dicked with the timing a bit as well. I've removed all the emissions stuff and hopefully changed the settings correctly so it never tries to turn on. I still have charcoal purging, and I guess that's fine, but I was able to figure out how to shut off my EGR solenoid. When I remove the plug it throws a code immediately, so I just capped off the vac lines. Other than that, things are just fine, no idiot lights. Not sure how gas mileage changed, but it's not exactly good If I do get another chip I'm going to HAVE to get the chip adapter lol I desoldered and soldered in my chip, like I did with my TPI. NOT RECOMMENDED AND A PAIN IN THE ***! It also didn't make contact when I first put the chip in w/o solder, which I had done with my TPI (didn't solder it in). I increased and smoothed out the VE tables too, they were quite jagged. That's really the biggest change.

K, story over, so if anyone feels like looking at the tune, or even using it themselves, be my guest The original is also included for comparison to see wth I dicked with

Oh and if no one does bother looking at it (totally fine, but would be a bummer heh), is there anything I'll want to change for the addition of a 2500 stall?

EDIT: Ha HAAAAAA Files would help eh?

 

I have noted one thing about the fuel injector wires on my 93 Z, all the wires on the passenger side bank are pink and green wires and all the ones on the drivers side bank are blue and red. It's wierd because I've just spent the last 2 weeks trying to figure out which connector goes to what injector but the way it's wired doesn't make sense, all four green wires on the even bank all tie to one fat green wire then to the ECM, all the pink do the same and then the same thing on the other side. I know the 94 and up changed to Sequential Port Injection but my harness kinda matches the wiring diagram of a TPI ECM. Can anyone explain what connectors go where or it doesn't matter? Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Left side on left side, right side on right - they are not numbered for a reason .

Its batch fire, the injectors dont care which cylinder they are on, just if its even or odd.

 

Without a datalog I cant suggest any real changes, but just browsing through it you may want to desensitize the knock sensor(pull from the gain chart and add to the recovery). If anything your timing looks on the tame side - my mail order tune was more aggresive - but I dont recommend adding any timing without datalogging.

Personally I would disable all the emissions crap and pull it as well, but it wont help or hurt performance and really just cleans up the engine bay and takes a few lbs off the front end. Tree huggers might not like that idea but w/e . Everything else looks good on paper, but again a datalog would sure help!

 

Well, my emissions **** is already yanked Has been off since I installed my tune heh Just yanked it last year though. EGR is still on the intake, but not connected to anything.

I need to find a way to figure out how big my motor is, because it's been into before I'm sure it's a stock built motor, but who knows if it's still a 350, 355 or 357 :\

As for the knock retard and timing, for just a stock motor, what would you run it at? Or if anything, how much pull/add on the knock portion?

Oh, and the fan temp (just saw your edit on the bottom, I never put info in there lol), I'll be down Tennessee way in the next year. I originally tuned it for a 160, but I don't have it in yet, it's still sitting in my car lol I figured those fan temps were decent for that tstat so I wouldn't be running them constantly :\


Thanks

 

I have another million dollar question, does anyone know or has anyone experienced the fuel pump burning out repeatedly? I changed the filter and the pump, it burned out. I then changed the relay, the filter, and the pump, it burned out. Now I changed the Fuel pressure regulator (OEM replacement), the relay, the fuse, the filter, and another new Bosch pump. It finally reached 41 psi @ the rail with engine not running. Is there something I'm missing? Does someone know something to look for that I don't? This problem is on top of the fact that I have a dead #3 injector and is idling rough, stumbling and stuttering burping and sneezing. I'm changing the injectors for some 30lb SVO's and the MSD Pro Billet Opti unit. I hope that does it! Any input? Anyone? Help...

 

The pump is dying or the harness is frying itself? Only thing I can really think of if its the pumps is a dirty working environment, sucking up crud from the tank, or old/low quality pump socks being used that do not filter well and are letting junk through...

The insides of fuel pumps are VERY sensative. Just a few grains of sand getting in there can ruin it on the first start up...they are seriously that fragile.

 

On that stock shortblock going 11.70, how many miles are on it and did you use a stud kit or what? Because mine has 180,000 on the clock and I've been kinda worried about throwing a rod or spinning a bearing if I beat it too hard. I've got an ARP stud kit, ARP rod bolts, new bearings, and a new Melling High volume pump w/ drive assembly getting ready to go into it, I'm just hoping it's enough! Any input?

 

Manual= less **** to break on you. The 95 I'm looking at is a stripper too. I guess you took a look at my thread.

 

And also = faster 10bolt breaking

 

lol I was referring to the windows and door lock motors.

 

It had right about 150k on the bottom end. Oil pan had never been off - truely stock shortblock.

Everything looked pretty good when I tore it down, so I left the bottom end alone. The whole valvetrain and everything was new though - cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, heads, valve steam seals, and rockers were all replaced. Also installed a digital oil pressure sensor to keep better track of the oil in case something did start to happen.

The pickup fell off with about 10k on the build, and instead of popping it back on and tack welding it I decided to just get a new shortblock and redo the whole thing. I drained the oil and know for sure that the pickup fell off, and it still holds plenty of pressure under revs but at a idle it drops down.

When the stroker goes in, the original shortblock will be refreshed with new bearings and thrown in an old RWD rx7 for a second fun(and cheap) project. If it did 11.7s in the z, it should really move out in a little tin can assuming it can hook . Just as toy though, to see how fast it can go without worrying at all about being street legal.

In your case, assuming you do all the bearings and stud it like you say then it should be fine...I would def check the cylinder walls for wear though and make sure it holds compression. I was lucky that mine survived, but I knew there was a chance of it spinning a main or something and I was ready in case it did.

 

I know you had said it'll be awhile Pick, but what do you think you'll want for the computer stuff, so I can set aside some money for it?

BTW not to bug, but if you hadn't seen it, was wondering what your recommendation are for the timing things you mentioned. Timing being tame and knock retard. Thanks again for the input!

 

Hey guys I have a 93' Z too i was wondering how you read the codes in the glove box??? Mine is really mint and was wondering what all the codes ment... where can I find out what they mean??? Thank you

 

Those are your RPO codes, and they changed it to the door panels on later years. And yes, they are translatable

I took a picture of mine for ease of looking them up on my computer. You can squeeze the edges of the glove box so it opens wide.

Here's a great, and most complete list I've seen for GM, to look up your RPOs.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...e_GM_RPO_codes

Just hit CTRL+F and a "Search" box will open up (a bar on the bottom of the page for FireFox web browser, but I doubt you use that). Type in your RPO and hit enter. Same for the rest. Or you can do it the long way by scrolling down the page. To save you looking up one, LT1 is the RPO for... Our LT1 motor lol

 

Great Thank you for the help

 

Wow Puck, thanks a bunch that really eases my mind! I was getting real worried about my bottom end holding up! I have similar plans for a 383 build but I need my car driving, because it's the only thing I have to get to work! I'm waiting until I deploy to have the block machined out, and I'm gonna have my dad assemble it so it'll be ready to return to it's home when I return to the U.S..