hey guys! Its been awhile since I sold the 97 T/A and I picked up a cheap 93Z. I have a couple of questions on this one. I did search around but I am still a little confused.

My car has no power seats, locks, or windows.. I know its not a 1LE car. More likely it has the Preferred Group 1 Options instead of the Group 2 which had the power acc.

MY RPO codes are about worn off from inside of the glovebox. Is there a place I can go to get my original codes?

Also it has the 155mph speedo and not the 115. Has the upgraded 245/50 tires. I have not had a chance to look at the rear gear or see if it has the coolers. I know it is not body color between the top and rear window. I dont believe its a B4C car.

Is this considered a stripper model? How much weight savings are we talking about?

Thanks and I am GLAD to be back.

Mike

 

Yea, that'd be basically a bare-bones V8 model, from the sound of it. Merv could tell you the weight differences since he has a stripper model.

As for RPO sheet, you should be able to take your VIN to any GM dealer and have them print up a sheet for all the options it came with. I know Dodge goes back to 1991 since my buddy had his 1ton's option codes printed out, I'd assume GM would at least go back to 90 as well, but who knows! They don't have detailed records of 4th Gen numbers till I think LS era :\

Enjoy the 93, it's a rare bit to own! Also a headache at times due to a few key engine pieces not being compatible (intake, fuel rail), ECM instead of PCM (programming woes) and trans options.

 

Thanks for the info. I was curious how much of a difference it would be over a fully loaded 97 T/A...lol

I will take it to the GM dealership and see what I can find out.

I read up on the intake being a little different due to the lack of MAF. Does anyone make one for our cars ?

It has a 700R4 in it and will be a little cheaper for me to rebuild..

Thanks again!
Mike

 

I'm sure it weighs a fair amount less than a 97 T/A. Mainly due to the fact the T/As spoiler is solid, and compared to a standard Firebird, weighs quite a bit more. Being a Camaro, you really have nothing on the back so much lighter. And the electronics I'd guess would amount to a fair 50lbs + probably an EASY 75lbs for the hatch.

A MAF, no MAF for ours. MAP only, speed density. Intake isn't different for that reason though, the MAF cars have a MAP to fall back on in the same spot. Difference is the fuel rail cross over which is on the top. I suppose you COULD use a 94+ on them, but you'd have that cross over inside the intake which restricts a bit of airflow (nothing much and I'm sure it wouldn't make much a diff, but every bit helps).

While it is basically a 700R4, it's technically a 4L60, which is an updated 700R4 with some minor changes (valve body and a few other small things). So if you do have the stock one rebuilt, might as well give them the info of it being a 4L60 just in case, but I'm quite sure it doesn't matter since the internals on the 700 through to 4L60E are the same (up to like 95 or 96).

 

WOW, I didnt realize that much weight....sweet!

I will have to look over the engine tonight and check out the intake. I have always owned old school carb. cars or a car with a MAF. The speed density thing is a new one to learn about.

Correct, but I do know it is cheaper than the 4L60E to rebuild....about killed me in the wallet when i had one done...LOL!

Thanks for the good info.
Mike

 

www.speeddensity.org has a buuunch of info on our 93's

 

Thank you sir...I am going to join right now.

 

Speed density measures the intake pressure (density of the air) to measure the air volume (I'm pretty sure heh), where the MAF does it a different way that I'm not sure about haha

 

Welcome back, and a nice car to come back with. It sounds like a Stripper model, do you have anything else..like Cruise and Rear Window Defroster? Just about all the cars came with Cruise except for the 1LE's, it had to be specified to not want it. I forgot what year, but the Rear-Window Defrost started being a saftey item that was kind of required in a way..some cars don't have them, but alot do. Mine has both, and that's about it. I've even stripped out the Radio..lol. I still have it, just the CD player portion broke and I gutted that all out.

I estimate mine weighing in around 3300lbs, and that without the Rear Seats/Belts, Spare Tire(Jack is still in it), AC System completely taken out. I'm going to weigh it with the Drag Lites on it when I get the T56 in it to see what it really weighs.

 

Formula350....good info to know. Like I said, I have alot to learn up on this one..haha!

Merv, good Question about the cruise and defogger. I will check when I get home. I unloaded it from the trailer and parked it in the driveway on Monday. Its been raining here after work the past two days so I havent had a chance to get out and really look at it.

Guy bought my 74 is picking itup on Friday so I will get the garage back this weekend.

Yeah, I have no radio to begin with..haha!

I am going to keep in the interior but remove the air for now. Its crapped out anyway. I would like to do the alternator relocation, fuel line mod, a.i.r. removal, and egr removal just to clean up the engine bay as well. Its a start.

 

A 93 Z28 / A4 weighs in roughly around 3391 lbs completely stock. From there you can calculate what it will weigh by subtracting what your car doesn't have. The manual seat is about 3.5 lbs lighter, but the manual windows and doors are actually heavier. Clothe front seats are 30lbs each. Their leather counterparts are 40lbs a piece. In reality it just comes down to options. It really won't be that much lighter. Maybe 50lbs or so. You could make it a lot lighter if you start removing and cutting on things.

 

Well, my 50lb estimate was pretty close then

 

u probably do have a 700r4 my formula has a r4 and they are a bit diferent, mainly the valvebody. unfortunatly my car came with the 115 speedo and cutout . depending on the speedrating of the tires that came on the car is what speed cutout you have or dont have.

 

maf works by sending voltage through a hot wire and measures how much voltage is needed to keep the wire at that temp, depending on the voltage needed u get a reading on how much air is flowing in.

 

Nice car to get back on your feet with. Ive looked for one of those for a while now to use as a strip only car. 93's do have some perks. The 700R4 isnt computer controlled so tuning it is just like old school. The speed density is easier to tune for. Plus I just like the intake manifolds not having a fuel crossover going through the top of the intake. Just looks cleaner to me. I used to have a 97 with no power options and it was exactly 51.4 lbs lighter.

 

Mine bone stock weighed 3320lbs, and that was with a 3/4 Tank of Gas..

 

Yes, it's basically a 700R4, but technically (as in what GM calls it for 93 (or could've been as early as 92 in the Vette LT1)) is 4L60, precursor to 4L60E


Cool, good to know I'm sure I had learned it at one point in time, but meh


I prefer not having the crossover for aesthetic reasons too heh I think it looks much cleaner. And the ECM cars might be easier to tune FOR, but I'd certaintly say they're harder to tune in actuality due to having to burn chips. 99% of people aren't going to have a PROM burner :\ I had to find someone who was nice enough and willing to burn my tune I wrote in Tuner Pro (free app, and I'd be happy to provide the ECM and PROM files for it). Burning hardware runs, for a cheap one (which I don't know how good they burn) is around $85 on eBay. There IS some bare PCB (circuit board exposed) burners I've been seeing that aren't home made, but are your average consumer item either, for $15. I've been tempted by it, just due to how low cost and if it doesn't work well, no big deal really! And the EPROMs are only like $2-5, but you can run an EEPROM, like what is inside the PCMs for 94+, and not have to buy an eraser light. For those who don't know about EPROMs, the single E need a UV light to erase the chips via the window in them. EEPROMs are erased via just a signal from the burner.

I've been thinking about running an extender cable into the cab of the car and having the EEPROM mounted in a holder with another set of pins so I could just shut off the car and burn it right there with a laptop. Instead of removing the ECM, cover, ZIF holder, EPROM, inserting into burner and programing it I think there's actually a way to do it while the car is running too, but I don't remember where I read how to do that.

Last option is an Emulator, which Moate developed, but I haven't heard from anyone using one. That's just like the PCM then essentially, burning on the fly. Moate's is your place for everything ECM though, www.moates.net

 

I have a USB chip burner, EEPROM, and the piggyback adapter for LT1 computers and it was not that expensive and easy to do. Used the TunerPro software. I have a bit of programming experience though, so I caught on quickly and most is self explanitory if you have a good knowledge of how an engine works. Of course YMMV.

Never tried the emulator, and actually desoldered the emulator pins off the adapter when they got bent, but the EEPROM burns in like two seconds so did not really need it. Unlike the ooollldddd UV erasable factory chip that takes a few minutes sitting under a UV eraser .

The emulator attaches to the piggyback adapter through a ribbon cable like an IDE PC cable and then the car actually fruns off the emulator, ignoring the chip installed and taking changes instantly. Then the chip is burned the normal way once you are happy with the tune.

I am ditching the whole system for a Megasquirt setup with my stroker. Its a bit of a pain in the *** for more extreme builds that need a lot of tweaking, and the 93's are more mod-sensitive then the MAF cars so a spot-on tune is extremely important.

 

OK I'm computer inclined, but you lost me with the Emulator bit lol At first I was under the impression you hadn't tried an emulator, then you're talking about HAVING an emulator and cannibalizing it and making your own, to which you seemed to have made your own emulator and are somehow using it as a PCM style that lets you burn on the fly, but while you burn to the EEPROM, the ECM doesn't read from it lol

So, clearly, I'm needing some clarification here O_O

Also A) want to look at my horse **** tune I did and show me what I did right/wrong and what can be improved B) when you convert, what would you be asking for your current computer setup?

 

I never got the emulator, but the piggyback connector for the EEPROM has the connector for it. You can then choose to use it or not.

I removed the pins from the connector when two or three of them got bent and broke when trying to straighten them out...it would not be hard to solder on a new connector though.

It will be quite a while before I go to the megasquirt system - the shortblock and a bunch of odds and ends are in my garage waiting for enough time to get everything together, then I have to pull my current engine and swap the heads and accessories. If at that time you're still interested I would let you know first and let it go for dirt cheap since I wouldnt need it anymore.