I have been through hell and back with this system, the LS7 clutch works good up until the point of WOT runs, I have swaped every component except the clutch, I believe that the pressure plate from the LS7 is not up to the task on this engine.
first I want to give a very BIG thanks to Tick Performance for working with me and trying to figure this problem out. I am very happy with the master cylinder but I think I need a good clutch to make the components work as intended.

anyhow, I am considering buying a textralia clutch, just that I cannot make up my mind on wether to get the dual disk Textralia EXO-SKEL™ Multi-Plate Series Clutch w/ Steel Billet Flywheel, Dual Disc, Zero Balance or the Textralia OZ700™ Series HD Clutch w/ Steel Billet Flywheel & Z-Grip Disc, 800 Foot Pounds of Torque
[OZ700SBHD

so for my car, I am planning to get a rear end the begining of the year but I want to drive it with out a problem, what clutch would you pick and why?

I dont drive the car daily, its only taken out for meets and the occassional highway run. the car pushes 500rwtq, and will stay in that range for a long time.

HELP me pick one please

 

no one have any sugestions?
anyone that is using those clutches have anything to say?

what are the pros and cons from going dual disk or single disk?

 

Dont have one yet but plan on a single disc Tex Z grip in the near future. Ive seen alot of threads about them and talked to quite a few guys who reccomend them.

 

thanks for the comment, I think I need to get one stong enough to handle the power and one that does not make the pedal feels like S@#$t

 

I plan on buying the OZ700 Z Grip for my setup..it's the only one where what I've read it works really well with a decent amount of power.

 

is anyone else having issues with the LS7 Pressure Plate not disengaging? what symptoms are you expreriencing?

 

I don't have issues yet with my LS7, only if it gets real hot outside and I've ran the car hard for a bit it will get a little notchy but I don't powershift it, I can shift quick enough without holding my foot on the gas.

 

I will note that my Textralia Exo-Skel is 38lbs (twin disc/pp/flywheel). This is about 25lbs lighter than the stock LS7 stuff. Totally overkill for my setup (1000hp+ rating) even if I spray a 150hp shot.... (550-575rwhp n/a) but I wanted to install a clutch once.... and make it last as long as possible. My car will be on the road in a couple weeks and will provide feedback then. Street driven car with road racing in mind and a little bit of drag racing to mix it up.

In hindsight I would've liked a lighter clutch/flywheel combo to make it rev faster I think..... The 0Z700 would've been my 2nd choice and it can hold plenty of power (there is a supercharged 348 LS1 powered Ford drag car in Ireland making 800rwhp+ and has no issues with it). Not sure on the weight. The pedal pressure is nice on it also as a friend has it behind his LS7 making 565rwhp.

 

I have the Tick master, 02 slave, Textraila oz700 and a six speed inc trans... I am a very happy man when it comes to 7300 rpm shifts!

 

Once I started to use the Tick MC, everything else worked out fine.

 

Well I have a Tick MC and that did not help the problem, I am leaning towards having a bad PP, I just want to buy a clutch that will perform with no problem for me. I also like the fact that it only cost 400 for a rebuild. So that means that in the lon run even if I upgrade to more power the clutch would be plenty.

GNX7 please keep me updated with how you like your clutch. I am also doing more of a street car with the occassional WOT runs. no track time until I get the rear end

 

I love my Tex, good luck on your endeavor

 

After about 4 hours of road coarse abuse and 3 months of daily driving, my LS7 PP doesn't like to disengage on high rpm shifts. It will drop about 1/2 way down then be damn near impossible to press the pedal down the rest of the way. It does the exact opposite on high rpm downshifts when rev matching, the pedal will come up 1/2 way then stop. After a few pumps it will be back to normal. BTW, I have CTS-V with over 400 rwhp.

 

07CTSV
those are my exact symptoms. I am convinced that the PP on the LS7 clutch is weak at this point, I also had great luck with it while it was new, but after a few WOT runs, it went to ****, I thought it was the hydrolics but after replacing everything except the clutch I found out otherwise.
I will post once I get the clutch in., I am going to get the TEXTRALIA dual disk clutch.
is there anything special when installing a dual disk compared to a single disk?

I am getting more and more excited because I think I may have finally found the problem.
thanks for all those who are posting

 

My LS7 setup disengages, but it hates hard launches and just hates getting hot. I was messing around this weekend and was practicing launching and that bitch burnt off some good material. My car stunk for hours afterwards and the pedal is mushy now. I'm not making that much power either and was slipping it at 3500 rpm's and bogged a 2500 rpm launch and it was real bad. I don't understand how the Z06 can use that clutch when it makes more power then my setup. I'll be getting a new setup up here in the near future since I think the LS7 is going fast and will only get worse. I don't know about the the Tex cause of the price.

Anyone use the ACT or Centerforce? I was looking at those brands since I had an ACT in a boosted Honda and my buddies used the biggerst Centerforce clutches in there dumdumdumdumdum's.

Later

 

I have the tex twin and tripple in two different cars, love them both, no complaints

 

Based on your mod list (in sig) I don't see anything creating enough power for you to actually have any unpreventable problems with the LS7 clutch.

Ranger wrote: The C6Z06's LS7 clutch, even with clean fluid, will glaze on launch or a sloppy shift if the clutch is slipped, intentionally or not, by a slow release at elevated rpm, say above 2500. In such an event, the friction surfaces overheat from the slip to such an extent that the nominal clamping power of the clutch is lost; and the clutch pedal usually hangs mid-way up. There is no widely accepted explanation of this behavior’s exact cause. But it is an annoying flaw in the LS7 personality. If you want to ensure an LS7 launch without clutch issues, keep the launch rpm at 3600 or less and make a very fast clutch release, with the clutch foot coming up in a single motion. Since learning that lesson, I've not glazed the clutch in my car.

 

Well I may not be disclosing all the mods in my signature, but rest assured it's not liking the power my car makes. Even before my newly acquired power the clutch would smell on hard launches and would had when I hit the line lock and warm the tires. I'm not a fan of that clutch at all and wish I would have just got a better one the first time around. I was told it would hold about 450 rwhp, but that's not the case since I'm not making that much currently.

 

I have the 0z700 tex and it works just great just make sure that you get a braided line for the clutch though

 

I have had the Exo-Skel for over a year now. Up untill the first week in Feb. it was on a bolt on only car. Once you figure out how to drive it it's great. Since the heads and cam it is still awesome daily driver clutch. It also takes 4,500 rpm dumps at the track on old school ET Street cheater slicks. Sunday we will see how it likes 5,000+ dumps.
Get the Exo-Skel and make sure it is properly installed. You will love it! Some people complain about the floater plate rattling or making noise when you have the clutch pedal to the floor, but I can't hear that over my exhaust. Even so, it is a very small price to pay for a killer and consistant clutch.