Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

Alright, just to be sure I don't **** anything up, I want to ask a few things before I start. Also, I read the sticky, have it printed.

How high does the car need to be for this?
Is taking the transmission out the most time consuming part, and if not, what is if it takes 8 hours...?
This will be the first actual mod I've done to my car, will I die?

Any extra advice would be great.

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

Bump...

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

I just did my first clutch swap it wasn't that bad you won't die. I had a firend help me that had done it before. We put it on some large jackstands and did it in my garage. We were done before 2:30 that afternoon. It helps to have a firend to help pull the tranny and re-stab it.

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

What was the hardest part of it and how did you torque the bolts to whatever ftlbs... (did you have air tools or just muscle it?)

davidz28man

iTrader: (11)

hey man i have done several clutch jobs and if your a poor boy like me you dont have a trans jack. i took a 4x6 in wood block about 1 foot long and cut lines in it to match the ribs in the bottom of the tranny. then pushed it on the bottom of the tranny and used a stap to hold them together. this will able you to use a normal floor jack. the wood block help the stop the tranny from rocking back and forth. just lower the tranny anuff to get it out and slide it toward the back of the car, enuff room to get the clutch out and jack it up till it hits the bottom of the car and it will stay there. then when your done with the clutch just let it down and slide it back in. i used to lay under there and grab the back of the tranny and slide it out on my chest and then slide it to the floor. it really sucks to do this. the only other thing is make sure the presure plate is tight against the flywheel. If its not tight then your clutch wont release. hope this helps you out some.

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, actually I was thinking if something like that would work, glad to know someone tried... lol, thanks.

timberman00

iTrader: (1)

I installed my LS7 clutch by myself using the wood blocking on a floor jack method and it worked fine. The front wheels were on ramps and the rear axel on jack stands.
A few tips: Drain the fluid first, refill it from the top before the shifter goes in.
Get lots of extensions for your socket wrench, about 3 feet.
Use swivel sockets - get some good ones. I think you need 13mm and 15mm if I remember right.

GL and HF

davidz28man

iTrader: (11)

hey man also just make sure your hydraulics is disconnected from the side. i forggot 2 the first time i pulled the tranny and was doing the pull out on my chest method and tugged the line and streched it had to buy a new master with the line conected. it sucked

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

How did the swap go?

I just ordered the Ls7 clutch. Should be in next week.

Z28M6TT

also when you go to put the tranny back in, leave the hydraulics disconnected with the bleeder cracked a little, otherwise youll have to work against the clutch to push the trans on. i did the same clutch a week ago, just remember EVERYTHING IS A DIRECT REPLACEMENT!!! some people read threads about adjusting the pressure plate with a vise before putting it in, but that is only for GTOs. the only hard part about the whole job is doing the master cylinder (if you are changing it)

Vicinity

iTrader: (7)

It was really easy. Direct bolt in. Took about 7 hours total, because I worked slow taking it apart, and I put an alternator in.

Old clutch was a spec apparently and looked like burnt toast. Was really fun to sling it against stuff.

I'd highly recommend using a lift if possible, jackstands suck, my hands look like Edward Scissorhands gave me a high five. (Diesel stands with rusty cables)

Z28M6TT

haha, jackstands do suck. now just remember to drive it easy for 500 miles... and i would also recommend that if you messed with the hydraulics you should periodically check the clutch fluid level as it breaks in to make sure you dont have leaks newhere.