Shifting problem persists; unable to shift quickly.. HELP!!
10-30-2008 | 10:42 AM
#21
I would give Jeremy at Spec a call to see if he has any suggestions. He'll probably want to at least see pictures of the clutch if you can pull it, otherwise he'll ask you to send it in with the flywheel so they can inspect it if they think it's possible that it's a clutch issue. Was the flywheel cut on the new clutch install or is it a new flywheel?
10-30-2008 | 10:54 AM
#22
I would give Jeremy at Spec a call to see if he has any suggestions. He'll probably want to at least see pictures of the clutch if you can pull it, otherwise he'll ask you to send it in with the flywheel so they can inspect it if they think it's possible that it's a clutch issue. Was the flywheel cut on the new clutch install or is it a new flywheel?
I will keep you guys posted. Gonna bleed with the mityvac when I get it. If this doesn't work I will be installing a new slave with an ls7 clutch kit within the next 2-3 weeks.
10-30-2008 | 11:03 AM
#23
I haven't touched the clutch yet, as to the extent of my knowledge I believe its the stock clutch. just bought the car at 44k miles and its at 47k now. The master was slightly leaking when I swapped it.
I will keep you guys posted. Gonna bleed with the mityvac when I get it. If this doesn't work I will be installing a new slave with an ls7 clutch kit within the next 2-3 weeks.
I will keep you guys posted. Gonna bleed with the mityvac when I get it. If this doesn't work I will be installing a new slave with an ls7 clutch kit within the next 2-3 weeks.
10-31-2008 | 06:57 PM
#26
Once air got introduced into my slave due to an accidental pump while bleeding. I bled the **** out of it after that and supposedly all was fine. Fast forward a few months and during a WOT run in 3rd I found it sticking. I rebled, got clean fluid out, but the "air" was still trapped. I found this out while doing 4th gear pulls on a dyno when tuning my car.
Bled again, it was still sticking. Got fed up, bought a mityvac and pulled a lot of "trapped" air within the system. Significant amount. Took it for a long drive, then did a few WOT pulls to the top of 5th. Shifted like butter at redline.
I've bench bled the master and left it hanging in the garage overnight, sure enough thanks to the angle I left the system at, air worked its way up the system back into the reservoir. Once air gets in, it is a PAIN to get out. On top of that, it will disperse itself into the fluid and lower the boiling point further creating and trapping gasses from the degraded fluid at each WOT run.
I'm saying if you've exhausted all avenues with hardware, bleeding for air etc, then last point of failure is the clutch itself.
From what it sounds like either a) hole in system, air is getting in, or b) line is touching header and boiling fluid.
Bled again, it was still sticking. Got fed up, bought a mityvac and pulled a lot of "trapped" air within the system. Significant amount. Took it for a long drive, then did a few WOT pulls to the top of 5th. Shifted like butter at redline.
I've bench bled the master and left it hanging in the garage overnight, sure enough thanks to the angle I left the system at, air worked its way up the system back into the reservoir. Once air gets in, it is a PAIN to get out. On top of that, it will disperse itself into the fluid and lower the boiling point further creating and trapping gasses from the degraded fluid at each WOT run.
I'm saying if you've exhausted all avenues with hardware, bleeding for air etc, then last point of failure is the clutch itself.
From what it sounds like either a) hole in system, air is getting in, or b) line is touching header and boiling fluid.
10-31-2008 | 07:24 PM
#27
11-01-2008 | 09:02 PM
#28
Would love to know how this ends up for you. I to have a Pro 5.0 and am having very simialar issues. I have to granny shift it at high RPMs and it feels like I am going to break something in my arm getting her in gear. I to have bled the system with a mighty vac.
11-01-2008 | 11:33 PM
#29
i'd bet its the pressure plate. i had the very same problem on my 97. the pressure plate had just lost its tension. as good as your hydraulics are, whats going to return the clutch pedal back without a pressure plate?
11-03-2008 | 08:42 AM
#31
Didn't have time to bleed the hydraulics, will post when I do.
11-04-2008 | 08:40 PM
#32
Just used the mityvac tonight, took out one small air bubble and thats it. My problem still persists. Gonna order a new clutch soon. Is there anything I should have replaced at the same time as the clutch( already have slave and tranny mount)?
11-05-2008 | 06:29 PM
#34
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Lexington, KY
The Tick Master is way better than any other according to all the reviews. I can't shift fast at high rpms, and lately i can't get into gear until i let the car idle for 15 minutes. If its cold outside then i still can't get into gear. I'm hoping that the Tick MC solves all my shifting problems. I'll post up my experience after i get it in. I don't know if it will solve your problems or not, but may be worth a shot if you don't know what else.
11-05-2008 | 09:03 PM
#35
Im sorry, but how is this anyway possibly master related after everything I've said?
Its a BRAND new updated GM master cylinder on a STOCK clutch on a STOCK car other than an exhaust and short shifter. The pedal feels great with no sticking whatsoever. The mechanic I took it to himself said its either the slave or pressure plate.
I believe people are just stuck on saying "tick master" to any tranny related problem lately because its the coolest new thing to upgrade on the fbods at the current time.
I know you people are trying to help, but can people please read the thread or give some constructive criticism on why you think its the master?
11-06-2008 | 01:20 AM
#38
So your pedal feels good, you have a new master, and you've bled with a Mityvac, but your clutch is still not fully disengaging--based on what your describing. I'm voting for a bad pressure plate. Either option requires pulling the transmission though.
Just to be sure about the hydraulics, what happens if you pump the clutch pedal a few times quickly before you try to shift? Any change?
Something else to consider...If the clutch hasn't been fully disengaging for a long time (say due to air in the system), it could very well damage the synchros in multiple gears. I would think 5-6 would still be good though because 6 doesn't get used as much typically. I say this because I seem to remember reading about guys replacing clutches and having the same problem afterwards. Just don't remember if it was your problem or not.
Just to be sure about the hydraulics, what happens if you pump the clutch pedal a few times quickly before you try to shift? Any change?
Something else to consider...If the clutch hasn't been fully disengaging for a long time (say due to air in the system), it could very well damage the synchros in multiple gears. I would think 5-6 would still be good though because 6 doesn't get used as much typically. I say this because I seem to remember reading about guys replacing clutches and having the same problem afterwards. Just don't remember if it was your problem or not.
11-06-2008 | 08:39 AM
#39
So your pedal feels good, you have a new master, and you've bled with a Mityvac, but your clutch is still not fully disengaging--based on what your describing. I'm voting for a bad pressure plate. Either option requires pulling the transmission though.
Just to be sure about the hydraulics, what happens if you pump the clutch pedal a few times quickly before you try to shift? Any change?
Something else to consider...If the clutch hasn't been fully disengaging for a long time (say due to air in the system), it could very well damage the synchros in multiple gears. I would think 5-6 would still be good though because 6 doesn't get used as much typically. I say this because I seem to remember reading about guys replacing clutches and having the same problem afterwards. Just don't remember if it was your problem or not.
Just to be sure about the hydraulics, what happens if you pump the clutch pedal a few times quickly before you try to shift? Any change?
Something else to consider...If the clutch hasn't been fully disengaging for a long time (say due to air in the system), it could very well damage the synchros in multiple gears. I would think 5-6 would still be good though because 6 doesn't get used as much typically. I say this because I seem to remember reading about guys replacing clutches and having the same problem afterwards. Just don't remember if it was your problem or not.
Anyway, I ordered an ls7 clutch and pilot bearing yesterday. Already have a new slave and tranny mount waiting to be installed.
11-06-2008 | 06:53 PM
#40
Pumping does nothing and I don't think its anything internal because after the first shifting, any other shift during the same clutch down will be totally smooth. Wouldn't some sort of internal damage make the problem always occur?
Anyway, I ordered an ls7 clutch and pilot bearing yesterday. Already have a new slave and tranny mount waiting to be installed.
Anyway, I ordered an ls7 clutch and pilot bearing yesterday. Already have a new slave and tranny mount waiting to be installed.