problem bleeding clutch
11-23-2008, 09:09 PM
#1
problem bleeding clutch my friend and i have just finished putting a mcleod single disc clutch in my car and today we were bleeding it but we are having some issues. We are bleeding the clutch the "hard" way by getting underneath the car and opening up the bleeder screw but for some reason it isn't working. I was in the car pumping the pedal and holding it to the floor when he would crack the bleeder open while my cousin was adding fluid to the reservoir but after doing this for a long time it still wasn't working right. The pedal for some reason will stick to the floor after being held down however ocassionally it would come right back up. We also started the car a few times and tried to put it in gear but everytime we did it would grind or be very hard to put in gear. We are wondering if it is perhaps the slave cylinder but it only has about 3k miles on it and the master is brand new so it shouldn't be the hydraulics. Anyone have any suggestions??
11-23-2008, 09:13 PM
#2
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You running a stock master? Because the Mcleod clutch requires running their master. And that **** is 350$. I had the same problem when using the same clutch. Sucks cause they just sucker you for more money. And the reason you have to use it is because it has a larger bore and pushes the slave out further.
Used to be that your only choice was the Mcleod master, but recently Tick performance came out with one. If I had to do it again, I would never buy anything from Mcleod, they are a terrible company.
Here is the Tick unit
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...s-shipped.html
Its a very nice piece, and I would highly suggest it over the mcleod.
Also, you cannot use the Ram adjustable cause its just a stocker modified for adj pedal height
Used to be that your only choice was the Mcleod master, but recently Tick performance came out with one. If I had to do it again, I would never buy anything from Mcleod, they are a terrible company.
Here is the Tick unit
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...s-shipped.html
Its a very nice piece, and I would highly suggest it over the mcleod.
Also, you cannot use the Ram adjustable cause its just a stocker modified for adj pedal height
Last edited by LivingCanvas; 11-23-2008 at 09:26 PM.
11-23-2008, 10:13 PM
#3
You running a stock master? Because the Mcleod clutch requires running their master. And that **** is 350$. I had the same problem when using the same clutch. Sucks cause they just sucker you for more money. And the reason you have to use it is because it has a larger bore and pushes the slave out further.
Used to be that your only choice was the Mcleod master, but recently Tick performance came out with one. If I had to do it again, I would never buy anything from Mcleod, they are a terrible company.
Here is the Tick unit
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...s-shipped.html
Its a very nice piece, and I would highly suggest it over the mcleod.
Also, you cannot use the Ram adjustable cause its just a stocker modified for adj pedal height
Used to be that your only choice was the Mcleod master, but recently Tick performance came out with one. If I had to do it again, I would never buy anything from Mcleod, they are a terrible company.
Here is the Tick unit
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...s-shipped.html
Its a very nice piece, and I would highly suggest it over the mcleod.
Also, you cannot use the Ram adjustable cause its just a stocker modified for adj pedal height
11-24-2008, 07:02 PM
#5
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You dont really want to use a shim because then the slave will constantly be pressed against the clutch fingers. Your using their flywheel right? Usually only need a shim when you resurface your fly
This is what happened when I bought the same mcleod you have. They told me on the phone that I would not require their master to run the clutch. So I bought the clutch because it was a good deal. Then I had THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM YOUR HAVING with the clutch not disengaging. So I called the tech line, not the sales line about it. First he gives me some bleeding tips. Then I use all their bleeding methods, run about 5 bottles through it, and still the same. I call again, he says im doing something wrong. We do this several times. BTW im a mechanic, so im not car dumb, and im doing exactly what they are telling me to do. Then he finds im using the stock master, and tells me thats the problem. I say I was told by sales I didnt need it. The tech guy proceeded to basically call me a liar because he said they would never tell me you can use that clutch without their master. Luckily a friend of mine had one lying around (because it was a POS) and he let me try it. Lo and behold, the clutch worked fine after bleeding. Except that the POS mcleod master would tear up its seals like every 2 weeks, but thats a different story all together....
This is what happened when I bought the same mcleod you have. They told me on the phone that I would not require their master to run the clutch. So I bought the clutch because it was a good deal. Then I had THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM YOUR HAVING with the clutch not disengaging. So I called the tech line, not the sales line about it. First he gives me some bleeding tips. Then I use all their bleeding methods, run about 5 bottles through it, and still the same. I call again, he says im doing something wrong. We do this several times. BTW im a mechanic, so im not car dumb, and im doing exactly what they are telling me to do. Then he finds im using the stock master, and tells me thats the problem. I say I was told by sales I didnt need it. The tech guy proceeded to basically call me a liar because he said they would never tell me you can use that clutch without their master. Luckily a friend of mine had one lying around (because it was a POS) and he let me try it. Lo and behold, the clutch worked fine after bleeding. Except that the POS mcleod master would tear up its seals like every 2 weeks, but thats a different story all together....
11-24-2008, 08:06 PM
#6
You dont really want to use a shim because then the slave will constantly be pressed against the clutch fingers. Your using their flywheel right? Usually only need a shim when you resurface your fly
This is what happened when I bought the same mcleod you have. They told me on the phone that I would not require their master to run the clutch. So I bought the clutch because it was a good deal. Then I had THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM YOUR HAVING with the clutch not disengaging. So I called the tech line, not the sales line about it. First he gives me some bleeding tips. Then I use all their bleeding methods, run about 5 bottles through it, and still the same. I call again, he says im doing something wrong. We do this several times. BTW im a mechanic, so im not car dumb, and im doing exactly what they are telling me to do. Then he finds im using the stock master, and tells me thats the problem. I say I was told by sales I didnt need it. The tech guy proceeded to basically call me a liar because he said they would never tell me you can use that clutch without their master. Luckily a friend of mine had one lying around (because it was a POS) and he let me try it. Lo and behold, the clutch worked fine after bleeding. Except that the POS mcleod master would tear up its seals like every 2 weeks, but thats a different story all together....
This is what happened when I bought the same mcleod you have. They told me on the phone that I would not require their master to run the clutch. So I bought the clutch because it was a good deal. Then I had THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM YOUR HAVING with the clutch not disengaging. So I called the tech line, not the sales line about it. First he gives me some bleeding tips. Then I use all their bleeding methods, run about 5 bottles through it, and still the same. I call again, he says im doing something wrong. We do this several times. BTW im a mechanic, so im not car dumb, and im doing exactly what they are telling me to do. Then he finds im using the stock master, and tells me thats the problem. I say I was told by sales I didnt need it. The tech guy proceeded to basically call me a liar because he said they would never tell me you can use that clutch without their master. Luckily a friend of mine had one lying around (because it was a POS) and he let me try it. Lo and behold, the clutch worked fine after bleeding. Except that the POS mcleod master would tear up its seals like every 2 weeks, but thats a different story all together....
11-25-2008, 03:25 PM
#7
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I mean it is still possible that you havent bled all the air out of it. How many bottles have you bled through it? Just telling you my experience with the single disk mcleod.
FWIW, I threw that clutch in the garbage and got one from southbend clutch. Works fine with the stock master, and only had to bleed 2 botlles through it.
If your still having trouble with it, I have a bunch of different bleeding methods you can try. It would probably be easiest to call me, since typing it out can be confusing. Might try these methods before spending more money
Kendall(909)648-0412
FWIW, I threw that clutch in the garbage and got one from southbend clutch. Works fine with the stock master, and only had to bleed 2 botlles through it.
If your still having trouble with it, I have a bunch of different bleeding methods you can try. It would probably be easiest to call me, since typing it out can be confusing. Might try these methods before spending more money
Kendall(909)648-0412
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11-25-2008, 09:14 PM
#8
I mean it is still possible that you havent bled all the air out of it. How many bottles have you bled through it? Just telling you my experience with the single disk mcleod.
FWIW, I threw that clutch in the garbage and got one from southbend clutch. Works fine with the stock master, and only had to bleed 2 botlles through it.
If your still having trouble with it, I have a bunch of different bleeding methods you can try. It would probably be easiest to call me, since typing it out can be confusing. Might try these methods before spending more money
Kendall(909)648-0412
FWIW, I threw that clutch in the garbage and got one from southbend clutch. Works fine with the stock master, and only had to bleed 2 botlles through it.
If your still having trouble with it, I have a bunch of different bleeding methods you can try. It would probably be easiest to call me, since typing it out can be confusing. Might try these methods before spending more money
Kendall(909)648-0412
11-26-2008, 12:03 PM
#9
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just make sure when you bleed it, pump the pedal SLOW 5 times with the bleeder closed, hold the pedal down on the 5th pump, crack the bleeder, wait a second, close the bleeder, release the clutch, and repeat. thats what i did and i bled the whole system in about 15 minutes not even using a whole bottle of fluid. ...but i had also bench bed the master after doing the driil mod.
just my .02
good luck
just my .02
good luck
11-26-2008, 12:40 PM
#10
just make sure when you bleed it, pump the pedal SLOW 5 times with the bleeder closed, hold the pedal down on the 5th pump, crack the bleeder, wait a second, close the bleeder, release the clutch, and repeat. thats what i did and i bled the whole system in about 15 minutes not even using a whole bottle of fluid. ...but i had also bench bed the master after doing the driil mod.
just my .02
good luck
just my .02
good luck
11-26-2008, 12:53 PM
#11
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Drill mod. My was doing the same thing. After I replaced the master with a stock one, I did the drill mod. Bleed about 5 times, maybe 1/2 a bottle run thought. Worked fine, Try the drill mode, it help me.
01 Trans Am ws6.
01 Trans Am ws6.
11-28-2008, 08:55 AM
#12
thanks for all your help guys...my friend is buying a brake bleeder which we can use to bleed the clutch as well, also i am gonna buy a tick adjustable master because the stock master makes it kinda hard to shift at high rpm's. I will let you guys know how it goes
12-06-2008, 09:05 PM
#13
well we tried to bleed the clutch with a pressure bleeder and it is still doing the same thing...the weird thing is at one point the pedal had great pressure but it still wouldn't work and then after that when we bled it a lil more the pedal had no pressure at all. Im honestly starting to think something is wrong with the slave or something
12-07-2008, 08:28 PM
#14
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I just bleed mine and found that bench bleeding is the only way to go. I tried the underneth method it didn't work.Took out the mater and bleed it on the bench in 5min. now you couldn't push the rod in. One thing you might think about is that your lines might have a pin hole in them or cracks from being old.A friend found out that the hard way by buying a new slave and master,then found out it was a bad hose.Good luck.
12-08-2008, 02:32 PM
#15
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well we tried to bleed the clutch with a pressure bleeder and it is still doing the same thing...the weird thing is at one point the pedal had great pressure but it still wouldn't work and then after that when we bled it a lil more the pedal had no pressure at all. Im honestly starting to think something is wrong with the slave or something
Mcleod ind. can suck a bag of dicks as far as I'm concerned
12-08-2008, 06:51 PM
#16
yeah i just called them earlier and they said exactly what u posted, that i need to use their adjustable master because the bore pushes the slave out further. Funny thing is when i called them before i installed it a few weeks ago they said it will be fine with the stock master, and mind you both times i talked to someone from their tech line. Im pretty pissed right now because i had called them before i installed to make sure that i didn't need anything else so i could have my car back up and running quickly and now they are telling me something different then before. Well anyway it looks like i will have to hit up tick again for an adjustable master
12-10-2008, 06:18 PM
#17
funny thing..i called them again today and the tech i talked to today said the single disc clutch doesn't need the adjustable master, only the dual disc ones do which is what they initially told me and what many other people told me so i dunno...soon i may be getting an adjustable one if it doesn't work
