Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim?
12-10-2008, 10:17 AM
#21
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When getting a new clutch kit and say new flywheel and everything wouldnt the manufactors know for certain if a shim is needed? Like when i do my clutch im getting a new flywheel and everything else that is normaly changed. Thanks
12-10-2008, 11:58 AM
#22
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It is my pleasure Steve! Thank you for all that you do as well.
In our experience:
Monster Clutches do NOT need shimmed
Textralia Clutches do NOT need shimmed
LS7 Clutches do NOT need shimmed
SPEC clutches do need shimmed
But don't take our word for it guys, when in doubt: measure!
In our experience:
Monster Clutches do NOT need shimmed
Textralia Clutches do NOT need shimmed
LS7 Clutches do NOT need shimmed
SPEC clutches do need shimmed
But don't take our word for it guys, when in doubt: measure!
12-10-2008, 12:24 PM
#23
Awesome info guys - Thanks!
Here is some info from RAM's site on shimming. I have a dual disc I am about to install but I need to measure for the correct shim.
Where can we get a set of shims? I don't want to have the driveline all torn down and then have to order up some shims.. lol
http://www.ramclutches.com/Tech/Tech...%20Bearing.jpg
Here is some info from RAM's site on shimming. I have a dual disc I am about to install but I need to measure for the correct shim.
Where can we get a set of shims? I don't want to have the driveline all torn down and then have to order up some shims.. lol
http://www.ramclutches.com/Tech/Tech...%20Bearing.jpg
12-10-2008, 12:39 PM
#24
Good information. Although, there is an element that needs to be added. That is the spring rate of the pressure plate fingers & whether or not the manufaturer has built in some forgiveness in the finger travel to make up for spacing errors. Agreed, that as a rule of thumb, a pre-gap is the correct solution. It is not always true that set-ups w/ no shim & an 1/8" interferance into the clutch fingers automatically results in an incorrect clutch release that could lead to pre-mature clutch failure.
Am not trying to start an arguement here. Am simply stating that I have found an element of releif on some clutches that is in the area of 1/8" travel into the fingers. So, guys who's slave cylinder presses into the clutch fingers, even after the shim is removed, may not have issues up to 1/8". Call the manufacturer to confirm.
Am not trying to start an arguement here. Am simply stating that I have found an element of releif on some clutches that is in the area of 1/8" travel into the fingers. So, guys who's slave cylinder presses into the clutch fingers, even after the shim is removed, may not have issues up to 1/8". Call the manufacturer to confirm.
12-10-2008, 02:46 PM
#25
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So is the shim for the inconsistency of the manufactoring of the clutch itself? I dont understand how getting all new stuff would result in measuring anything... sorry i dont know alot about this but i plan on doing my clutch with a few buddys.
12-11-2008, 01:20 AM
#26
It seems that Tick Performance and SNL seem to be really hot right now. I have read a lot of good things about both recently. I was going 6speed inc and an LS7 clutch. After reading posts I think a Tick/SNL combo will be much better.
3rd gear is junk(tick)and a H/C/I or turbo and will need a clutch(SNL) is the plan for the winter. I will getting a hold of you guys.
Best of luck and yes this should be a sticky.
3rd gear is junk(tick)and a H/C/I or turbo and will need a clutch(SNL) is the plan for the winter. I will getting a hold of you guys.
Best of luck and yes this should be a sticky.
12-11-2008, 07:59 AM
#28
Here is another thing to check which is very important.
When ussing the same slave but changing the bearing --make sure you remove ALL of the old bearing.Ussually there is a spacer of sorts that will be left behind from the old bearing -inside the slave.Just need a small screwdriver to fish it out.If left in there it is almost 1/8" spacer.
When ussing the same slave but changing the bearing --make sure you remove ALL of the old bearing.Ussually there is a spacer of sorts that will be left behind from the old bearing -inside the slave.Just need a small screwdriver to fish it out.If left in there it is almost 1/8" spacer.
12-11-2008, 09:23 AM
#31
my spec clutch just went because the installer did not shim it. i am willing to bet all the spec failures on this board are due to the same problem. good info guys! just want you to know i'm picking up my car tomorrow and will be the first time i drive my car with teh new Tick Master Cylinder 
No firsthand experience here. Measure to be sure!
Our kit is different from the rest of the industry in that we use a Tilton Master Cylinder and our kit includes an unrestricted, heat wrapped line as well. If you ever get a chance to drive a car with our kit installed - DO IT! The difference is completely night & day.
No personal experience here. Break out the measuring stick.
12-11-2008, 10:12 AM
#32
Here is another thing to check which is very important.
When ussing the same slave but changing the bearing --make sure you remove ALL of the old bearing.Ussually there is a spacer of sorts that will be left behind from the old bearing -inside the slave.Just need a small screwdriver to fish it out.If left in there it is almost 1/8" spacer.
When ussing the same slave but changing the bearing --make sure you remove ALL of the old bearing.Ussually there is a spacer of sorts that will be left behind from the old bearing -inside the slave.Just need a small screwdriver to fish it out.If left in there it is almost 1/8" spacer.
Excellent point. Thank-you
12-11-2008, 11:29 AM
#33
It seems that Tick Performance and SNL seem to be really hot right now. I have read a lot of good things about both recently. I was going 6speed inc and an LS7 clutch. After reading posts I think a Tick/SNL combo will be much better.
3rd gear is junk(tick)and a H/C/I or turbo and will need a clutch(SNL) is the plan for the winter. I will getting a hold of you guys.
Best of luck and yes this should be a sticky.
3rd gear is junk(tick)and a H/C/I or turbo and will need a clutch(SNL) is the plan for the winter. I will getting a hold of you guys.
Best of luck and yes this should be a sticky.
This is a prime example of businesses that are customer service oriented, it shows!
Keep us posted on what you need, we'll get you squared away!
12-11-2008, 04:46 PM
#34
I just thiink all clutches should be made to certain specs so a shim is not required. That takes all the guess work out of installing your clutch. I have a Spec stage 2 now and I installed the shim. I only put 6,000 miles on it and it is slipping like crazy. I haven't pulled it yet so I don't no the reason. One thing I know is the instructions that came with the clutch said nothing about measuring. They said if it's an F-body to use the shim.
12-13-2008, 09:04 AM
#38
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great info, i had a spec twin disc and it bottumed out the throw out bearing, i called up spec and they gave me a mouth full of crap, now i am tryin to sell it. $550 incase anyone wants it.
