clutch fluid
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Basically you just fill the master with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid, push the clutch to the floor, open the bleeder, let the old fluid squirt out, close the bleeder, pull the pedal back up, and repeat.
When you have clean, fresh fluid spraying out of the bleeder, top the master off to the specified level, put the cap on, and you're done
a lot easier with a buddy and a speed bleeder. You could also try sucking the fluid out of the reservoir with a 'turkey baster' type object, fill it with the new fluid and then pump the clutch a few dozen times, suck out the bad fluid, replace and repeat until the fluid is clear after pushing on the clutch. It worked for a while for me but apparently has worked better for some others.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: Gladstone, Queensland, Australia
Silicon based ester fluids ie dot 5 are compressible to a certain degree to improve and maintain good brake pedal feel in racing applications. Non compressible fluids are glycol based they absorb water more readily but more suitable for clutch applications as they don't compress like silicon based fluids. Unless you have SRF which has its own patented chemical structure and is the only real non compressible dot 5 fluid on the market. I would go full synthetic dot 3 or 4 or one better dot 5.1 which is basically a more refined dot 4 with a very high boiling point and zero compressibility. Good choice Motul dot 5.1. Great fluid very good quality and high boiling point which will reduce pedal sticking and grinding gears due to zero compressibility and high boiling point. It is relatively cheap still dearer then supermarket brand but well worth it. I change my fluid at every oil change. A bit overkill but I bled mine properly then use the ranger method with syringe so I go through very little fluid and always have zero pedal issues and keeps seals in good shape.
