McNair06Goat

Looking to find the best clutch fluid to run with a high hp app. and what has the highest boiling point

TDP

iTrader: (23)

I use Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3/4 in all the cars that go thru my shop. Never had any complaints about it. I believe the boiling point is 430* range.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Same here, thats what I use with great success!

ZMONSTER!

iTrader: (9)

Neo super dot 610 (~600 degrees dry/421 degrees wet) Motul rbf 600 (~600 dry/420 wet) and the best is castrol SRF (dosent boil, like ever)

Engine_HP

iTrader: (1)

i use the brake fluid (21) DOT 3

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I heard that SRF is like $80, but yes it is the best, used in all our Cup cars.

ZMONSTER!

iTrader: (9)

Oh ya its expensive as hell, thats why I went with the motul

LANDONZ

iTrader: (23)

i may be a idiot, but what do you mean clutch fluid? How do i check mine?

ZMONSTER!

iTrader: (9)

do you know where the resivoir is? If so remove cap and see if the fluid is black.

LANDONZ

iTrader: (23)

yes, its behind or beside the brake booster? what do I add if needed?

ZMONSTER!

iTrader: (9)

well you look at it and if its blacker than satans heart you need to flush and replace the fluid. not a lot of fun.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Not fun, but not hard either.

Basically you just fill the master with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid, push the clutch to the floor, open the bleeder, let the old fluid squirt out, close the bleeder, pull the pedal back up, and repeat.

When you have clean, fresh fluid spraying out of the bleeder, top the master off to the specified level, put the cap on, and you're done

ZMONSTER!

iTrader: (9)

a lot easier with a buddy and a speed bleeder. You could also try sucking the fluid out of the reservoir with a 'turkey baster' type object, fill it with the new fluid and then pump the clutch a few dozen times, suck out the bad fluid, replace and repeat until the fluid is clear after pushing on the clutch. It worked for a while for me but apparently has worked better for some others.

hymey

Silicon based ester fluids ie dot 5 are compressible to a certain degree to improve and maintain good brake pedal feel in racing applications. Non compressible fluids are glycol based they absorb water more readily but more suitable for clutch applications as they don't compress like silicon based fluids. Unless you have SRF which has its own patented chemical structure and is the only real non compressible dot 5 fluid on the market. I would go full synthetic dot 3 or 4 or one better dot 5.1 which is basically a more refined dot 4 with a very high boiling point and zero compressibility. Good choice Motul dot 5.1. Great fluid very good quality and high boiling point which will reduce pedal sticking and grinding gears due to zero compressibility and high boiling point. It is relatively cheap still dearer then supermarket brand but well worth it. I change my fluid at every oil change. A bit overkill but I bled mine properly then use the ranger method with syringe so I go through very little fluid and always have zero pedal issues and keeps seals in good shape.

McNair06Goat

thanks sounds great, also where is the best place to get a slave cyl.

ZMONSTER!

iTrader: (9)

are you swapping out your clutch?
as far as slaves go summit sells them.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

RPM Speed has the 01-02 GM Slave (improved design) for about $130.