Ram Powergrip HD
#5
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Ya, this is kinda a not popular clutch here, and a spec sg3 or z06/7 are the In thing to use. But people that have it really like it compaird to other strong, single street drivable clutchs.
I love mine, its not a baby GM your grandama can drive it. It has some holding power, and a good pedal. Its only chatterd a little when I 1st got it and had 0-300 miles on it still breaking it in and there was 3+ people in the car with 3.42 gears. When I had 3.73 gears after it was broke in it was fine. Only did it slightly from a dead stop cold with a FULL car. Like 3 people, slicks,tools,jack, packed under the hatch. lol. But I also have a good sized cam that may surge in that codition also, So I kinda drive the car diffrent then a 100% stock car. Not that its a big deal but if I wanted to, or a noob they could stall the car, or have it surge, of get some clutch chatter if you wanted to.
No shim, with the ram billet PP, and adjustable mater. I checked the finger specs to bellhouseing like the ram says with the clutch. Remeber the catch point dose rise up fats after 20-50 miles, the adj master heep that in check, So you dont burn the clutch up after the cautch point settles in. I keep the pedal high for fast shifting, with slight play for full disengaugment. Car turned 67K miles beofore storage this winter, put it in at 58K when I got the car with no 2nd gear, and trans was fixed 2 years ago. Gotten 1.5 60's with it, never slipped. Lunched up to 6500 off the shiftlite, 28x10.5 etdrags. Cluch was like $470 local at newera, nothing more you can ask for. I drove a lot of diffent clutches, and besides a $1,300+ twin, this was the best I found. Here is a pic of a local friends spec sg3 that cam apart. this is way to common, and I'll probally never run one form this.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/P1020411.jpg
vid, stuck in stop and go trafic in OH on the 1,100 mile each way to the LSXshootout. It did suck having to crawl at 3mph it to move up 1-3 car spots then stop, for about 1 hr. No chatter, but big cam isn't happy with idle rpms to move the car along at +weight.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...t=MVI_2285.flv
another thing I like it you can slip, and ride the clutch a little. My friend has a Trex cam only car, and a wet kit, and a spec sg4 or 5 but its very grippy. So much racing on DR is just as bad as street tires. Its just a on/off switch tring to launch, it blows the tires away or bog if you under 3500-4K rpms.
http://vimeo.com/1822370
stock wheels/tires in a heads up streetcar shootout, in the 11.50 class. I got some 1.7s hot lapping the car at the end. A Gm clutch you can slip like that, but it will start to slip driving it that hard without cold down time
bodydrop, what gears did you have? somthing like 3.54-3.73s in the s60. This clutch will chatter if your car weights over 3600 with 3:73 and longer gears.
Sounds like you have a iron truck block, is a loaded car? Thats would make it chatter.
I love mine, its not a baby GM your grandama can drive it. It has some holding power, and a good pedal. Its only chatterd a little when I 1st got it and had 0-300 miles on it still breaking it in and there was 3+ people in the car with 3.42 gears. When I had 3.73 gears after it was broke in it was fine. Only did it slightly from a dead stop cold with a FULL car. Like 3 people, slicks,tools,jack, packed under the hatch. lol. But I also have a good sized cam that may surge in that codition also, So I kinda drive the car diffrent then a 100% stock car. Not that its a big deal but if I wanted to, or a noob they could stall the car, or have it surge, of get some clutch chatter if you wanted to.
No shim, with the ram billet PP, and adjustable mater. I checked the finger specs to bellhouseing like the ram says with the clutch. Remeber the catch point dose rise up fats after 20-50 miles, the adj master heep that in check, So you dont burn the clutch up after the cautch point settles in. I keep the pedal high for fast shifting, with slight play for full disengaugment. Car turned 67K miles beofore storage this winter, put it in at 58K when I got the car with no 2nd gear, and trans was fixed 2 years ago. Gotten 1.5 60's with it, never slipped. Lunched up to 6500 off the shiftlite, 28x10.5 etdrags. Cluch was like $470 local at newera, nothing more you can ask for. I drove a lot of diffent clutches, and besides a $1,300+ twin, this was the best I found. Here is a pic of a local friends spec sg3 that cam apart. this is way to common, and I'll probally never run one form this.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/P1020411.jpg
vid, stuck in stop and go trafic in OH on the 1,100 mile each way to the LSXshootout. It did suck having to crawl at 3mph it to move up 1-3 car spots then stop, for about 1 hr. No chatter, but big cam isn't happy with idle rpms to move the car along at +weight.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...t=MVI_2285.flv
another thing I like it you can slip, and ride the clutch a little. My friend has a Trex cam only car, and a wet kit, and a spec sg4 or 5 but its very grippy. So much racing on DR is just as bad as street tires. Its just a on/off switch tring to launch, it blows the tires away or bog if you under 3500-4K rpms.
http://vimeo.com/1822370
stock wheels/tires in a heads up streetcar shootout, in the 11.50 class. I got some 1.7s hot lapping the car at the end. A Gm clutch you can slip like that, but it will start to slip driving it that hard without cold down time
bodydrop, what gears did you have? somthing like 3.54-3.73s in the s60. This clutch will chatter if your car weights over 3600 with 3:73 and longer gears.
Sounds like you have a iron truck block, is a loaded car? Thats would make it chatter.
Last edited by studderin; 12-22-2008 at 01:13 AM.
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I have one in mine...
I love it, It grips like hell. Holds up to 4500k launches if you can plant the rear end without any problem
their is a slight chatter when you let the clutch out but I dont even notice it anymore. The clutch was installed 2k before I bought the car so I dont know the normal feel of stock clutches in these cars but my Ram HD was hard to get use too (its my first standard car, I learned on it)...mine is very touchy. As soon as you touch the clutch and press it in about a inch, its fully engaged...theirs not really a happy medium. Sometimes I even have to play with it to get it to take off smooth....but now that im use to it, I love it.
I love it, It grips like hell. Holds up to 4500k launches if you can plant the rear end without any problem
their is a slight chatter when you let the clutch out but I dont even notice it anymore. The clutch was installed 2k before I bought the car so I dont know the normal feel of stock clutches in these cars but my Ram HD was hard to get use too (its my first standard car, I learned on it)...mine is very touchy. As soon as you touch the clutch and press it in about a inch, its fully engaged...theirs not really a happy medium. Sometimes I even have to play with it to get it to take off smooth....but now that im use to it, I love it.
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#9
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When I put in my last clutch (SPEC 2+ died on starting line) I bought the RAM and ZOOM HP. IMHO the ZOOM is built better. Disc is solid metal, springs are bigger and not encased in plastic. ZOOM is more $ but has held up for me.
I returned the RAM to Summit. 1st 2 pics are ZOOM, last 3 are RAM
Street maners with ZOOM are great, no chatter after break-in.
I returned the RAM to Summit. 1st 2 pics are ZOOM, last 3 are RAM
Street maners with ZOOM are great, no chatter after break-in.
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When I put in my last clutch (SPEC 2+ died on starting line) I bought the RAM and ZOOM HP. IMHO the ZOOM is built better. Disc is solid metal, springs are bigger and not encased in plastic. ZOOM is more $ but has held up for me.
I returned the RAM to Summit. 1st 2 pics are ZOOM, last 3 are RAM
Street maners with ZOOM are great, no chatter after break-in.
I returned the RAM to Summit. 1st 2 pics are ZOOM, last 3 are RAM
Street maners with ZOOM are great, no chatter after break-in.
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my PowerGrip HD might have lasted 2000 miles. my car is a bolt-on spray car. the first pass i tried to spray the car was the death of the clutch. i've still got a stock rear and was running nitto's when i tore it up 2. replaced it with a Cartek and what a difference. wish i would have bought the Cartek first. pedal pressure is like stock and it don't require any shim or anything.
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When I put in my last clutch (SPEC 2+ died on starting line) I bought the RAM and ZOOM HP. IMHO the ZOOM is built better. Disc is solid metal, springs are bigger and not encased in plastic. ZOOM is more $ but has held up for me.
I returned the RAM to Summit. 1st 2 pics are ZOOM, last 3 are RAM
Street maners with ZOOM are great, no chatter after break-in.
I returned the RAM to Summit. 1st 2 pics are ZOOM, last 3 are RAM
Street maners with ZOOM are great, no chatter after break-in.
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#15
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i have one, its holding up to 390tq and 420hp of H/C goodness, and before that it held up to 4 15lb bottles of 100 shot making 460tq and 436hp. Stock flywheel resurfaced with no shim
#20
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The ZOOM HP is Kevlar on both sides.
Organic/ceramic disc clutch will not hold as well as a "puc/puc" type disc.
Beyond the disc material itself the construction and materials used in the disc, IMHO, is also a factor in my choice of clutches. My nod went to the ZOOM in that area.
I have seen the RAM fail when the disc did shear from its hub. The ZOOM MC series of clutches is a "stock" replacement but when I spoke with the ZOOM tech he said they no longer offer the MC series for the LT1 (MU disc type)