Vibrations above 75 MPH
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Vibrations above 75 MPH Heres the deal, I have a 383 lt1 putting down a decent amount of power, i was running an LS1 aluminum driveshaft and twisted it like a beer can on a good launch and ever since i've had a terrible vibration above 75 since then. I've had a steel driveshaft in the car which is a known good drive shaft from another car and it has not taken care of the vibration in addition to that i've also installed another rear end which has not taken care of the vibration either. The transmission shifts fine with nothing abnormal, I still have not ruled out the possibilty of the pinion angle being off, i'm running a stock torque arm so it should not have changed. Seems as though the only last possibilty is the t56 transmission. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The stock aluminum driveshafts are pretty tough . If the vibration started after that happend , I would definately look everything over really well . Did you reuse the yoke off the driveshaft or did the steel one has its own ?
Very possible you chewed up the yoke bearing inside the T56 tailhousing.
Have you tried another aluminum driveshaft? Steel DS's are more prone to vibrations due to their weight. Also, try rotating the DS 180deg on the rear if you'd like to try, sometimes some tolerances will stack in one orientation...
Have you tried another aluminum driveshaft? Steel DS's are more prone to vibrations due to their weight. Also, try rotating the DS 180deg on the rear if you'd like to try, sometimes some tolerances will stack in one orientation...
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I did not reuse the yoke from the previous driveshaft, i had another steel driveshaft built from a reputable place and it has the same vibrations as a stock steel drive shaft. i have flipped the ds 180 numerous times with no change. When i say vibration I mean a terribly violent vibration that gets extremely intense up to the max speed i've taken it at 90. this vibration is severe enough to be cause for alarm, i did notice however there is a good amount of metal shavings on the tailshaft of the transmission. 85miketpi's suggestion of chewing up the yoke bearing in the bellhousing seems like a VERY likely cause i'm not familiar with how one of these would be changed. there does not appear to be any damage to the yoke of the driveshaft which is what i would think to be noticable if the yoke bearing were bad but as i said i'm not very familiar with this type of scenario. Thank you for all your advice and suggestions!
Last edited by fmaznicki; Jan 4, 2009 at 10:35 PM.
The yoke bearing is also called a bushing (TIMKEN Part # 5200 ). What the autoparts gave you was the mainshaft bearing.
To replace the bushing, you'll need to remove the tail housing and have the old bushing pressed out, and the new one pressed in. There's a special tool to do it correctly, though some have managed to get it done without it. The yoke should fit snuggly into the tail housing.
To replace the bushing, you'll need to remove the tail housing and have the old bushing pressed out, and the new one pressed in. There's a special tool to do it correctly, though some have managed to get it done without it. The yoke should fit snuggly into the tail housing.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 29
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The yoke bearing is also called a bushing (TIMKEN Part # 5200 ). What the autoparts gave you was the mainshaft bearing.
To replace the bushing, you'll need to remove the tail housing and have the old bushing pressed out, and the new one pressed in. There's a special tool to do it correctly, though some have managed to get it done without it. The yoke should fit snuggly into the tail housing.
To replace the bushing, you'll need to remove the tail housing and have the old bushing pressed out, and the new one pressed in. There's a special tool to do it correctly, though some have managed to get it done without it. The yoke should fit snuggly into the tail housing.
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The picture is of the seal, the bushing is a 1" long "sleeve" that's ID is slightly larger than the yoke OD. (you get a seal with the timken 5200)
You don't have to pull the trans to remove the tailhousing, but you do have to lower it off the xmem, remove the shifter, and keep it supported. Most of the fluid will also escape, so should be drained.
You don't have to pull the trans to remove the tailhousing, but you do have to lower it off the xmem, remove the shifter, and keep it supported. Most of the fluid will also escape, so should be drained.
It's not so much the strength of the press, as the frailness
of the bushing. Ideally, the tool should keep the bushing from
collasping inwards, while pressing it into the housing. Any
crushing of the bushing will ruin it.
...and to keep the options open, you may want to check the splines of the output shaft of the transmission. I believe folks have twisted them during a driveshaft break, and the driveline could vibrate from that also..
You can pop off the rear trans seal and inspect both the splines and the bushing before getting too deep into a repair..
You can pop off the rear trans seal and inspect both the splines and the bushing before getting too deep into a repair..
