Shifting issue still not solved...
01-13-2009, 09:01 AM
#21
Also, those zip ties that are supplied with the tick master... are they somewhat crucial to installing the master/keeping leaks away? If so, where are they exactly supposed to be located?
01-13-2009, 10:32 AM
#23
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Aetos, I thought about you last weekend when I drove my car. I got in it with it completely cold and NOT running, pushed the clutch in and put it in 1st, it went in smoothly, I slowly shifted through the gears and it easily went right in until I went to 5th, it was a little notchy, 6th wouldn't go. So I started the car, rolled it forward about a foot, then 5th and 6th would easily go in..... All of this is getting back to my point of you can't judge how well the tranny shifts when you are sitting still with the engine not running.... Those synchros have to be turning to work...
I know you say you are getting a grinding so thats definetly not right, but when you talk about your "block" when trying to change gears with it not running....I don't necessarily think that is a problem.
I also noticed that if its running and I have the clutch in at a stand still and I am rowing through the gears, if I try to shift it quick or hard like simulating a powershift at WOT, it seems to hit a "block" or restriction occassionally on certain gears, once again I contribute this to the fact the all of the tranny internals are not in motion, (ie. wheel speed matching RPMs). Driving down the road, my car shifts 100% perfectly smooth and positive at all levels of shifts(slow, fast, full on power shifts).
I guess my point is to reiterate, judge your tranny on how it shifts going down the road, not the driveway..... If its grinding when going down the road, or you are hitting blocks when trying to shift it hard, you still have a problem.
Keep us posted.
I know you say you are getting a grinding so thats definetly not right, but when you talk about your "block" when trying to change gears with it not running....I don't necessarily think that is a problem.
I also noticed that if its running and I have the clutch in at a stand still and I am rowing through the gears, if I try to shift it quick or hard like simulating a powershift at WOT, it seems to hit a "block" or restriction occassionally on certain gears, once again I contribute this to the fact the all of the tranny internals are not in motion, (ie. wheel speed matching RPMs). Driving down the road, my car shifts 100% perfectly smooth and positive at all levels of shifts(slow, fast, full on power shifts).
I guess my point is to reiterate, judge your tranny on how it shifts going down the road, not the driveway..... If its grinding when going down the road, or you are hitting blocks when trying to shift it hard, you still have a problem.
Keep us posted.
01-13-2009, 10:52 AM
#24
Aetos, I thought about you last weekend when I drove my car. I got in it with it completely cold and NOT running, pushed the clutch in and put it in 1st, it went in smoothly, I slowly shifted through the gears and it easily went right in until I went to 5th, it was a little notchy, 6th wouldn't go. So I started the car, rolled it forward about a foot, then 5th and 6th would easily go in..... All of this is getting back to my point of you can't judge how well the tranny shifts when you are sitting still with the engine not running.... Those synchros have to be turning to work...
I know you say you are getting a grinding so thats definetly not right, but when you talk about your "block" when trying to change gears with it not running....I don't necessarily think that is a problem.
I also noticed that if its running and I have the clutch in at a stand still and I am rowing through the gears, if I try to shift it quick or hard like simulating a powershift at WOT, it seems to hit a "block" or restriction occassionally on certain gears, once again I contribute this to the fact the all of the tranny internals are not in motion, (ie. wheel speed matching RPMs). Driving down the road, my car shifts 100% perfectly smooth and positive at all levels of shifts(slow, fast, full on power shifts).
I guess my point is to reiterate, judge your tranny on how it shifts going down the road, not the driveway..... If its grinding when going down the road, or you are hitting blocks when trying to shift it hard, you still have a problem.
Keep us posted.
I know you say you are getting a grinding so thats definetly not right, but when you talk about your "block" when trying to change gears with it not running....I don't necessarily think that is a problem.
I also noticed that if its running and I have the clutch in at a stand still and I am rowing through the gears, if I try to shift it quick or hard like simulating a powershift at WOT, it seems to hit a "block" or restriction occassionally on certain gears, once again I contribute this to the fact the all of the tranny internals are not in motion, (ie. wheel speed matching RPMs). Driving down the road, my car shifts 100% perfectly smooth and positive at all levels of shifts(slow, fast, full on power shifts).
I guess my point is to reiterate, judge your tranny on how it shifts going down the road, not the driveway..... If its grinding when going down the road, or you are hitting blocks when trying to shift it hard, you still have a problem.
Keep us posted.
Thanks for the post and I'll keep that in mind!
Yea, the problem also occurs while the car is in motion, any rpm. It also happens during idle into 1st(which shouldn't happen with 1st, right?)
I believe I do have a leak as stated earlier because my car seems to become worse and worse the longer the car goes from the time I bled it... not sure yet though.
01-17-2009, 03:40 PM
#25
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When you put the ls7 clutch in how was the pedal with the stock master? Was the engagement at the bottom like most of us and then moved up? I'm just hoping you didn't swap out your stock clutch with a bad pressure plate to another pressure plate issue on the ls7 clutch. With the tick MC, is there a little room before you start to feel pressure from the clutch pressure plate, like an inch or two of no pedal pressure? How many miles are on you ls7 setup?
01-18-2009, 08:52 AM
#26
When you put the ls7 clutch in how was the pedal with the stock master? Was the engagement at the bottom like most of us and then moved up? I'm just hoping you didn't swap out your stock clutch with a bad pressure plate to another pressure plate issue on the ls7 clutch. With the tick MC, is there a little room before you start to feel pressure from the clutch pressure plate, like an inch or two of no pedal pressure? How many miles are on you ls7 setup?
The LS7 has <1k miles.
I wish this weather would pickup so I can actually go and check for leaks.
01-19-2009, 12:45 AM
#27
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This may sound funny but have you tried putting it in neutral, starting the engine and just pumping the **** out of the clutch pedal? I mean like press hard and fast and release the same way, like twenty to thirty times. It can't hurt. Of course adjust your master to the fullest length so it is getting all the travel.
01-19-2009, 09:54 AM
#28
This may sound funny but have you tried putting it in neutral, starting the engine and just pumping the **** out of the clutch pedal? I mean like press hard and fast and release the same way, like twenty to thirty times. It can't hurt. Of course adjust your master to the fullest length so it is getting all the travel.
01-19-2009, 11:33 AM
#29
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It worked for me to get the pedal to firm up on my ls7 clutch. It brought the release point to the very top of the pedal. I bled and bled and bled with a remote bleeder and it still wasn't very firm or at the top till I tried this. When i was bleeding it didn't seem like it was pushing a lot of fluid. Now when I push the pedal down with the remote bleeder cracked it streams out from the top to the bottom of the pedal. It boils down to thinking you still have air trapped in your system or your pressure plate hasn't fully adjusted out. Snapping the pedal on the return could help both and it's free.
01-19-2009, 01:19 PM
#30
It worked for me to get the pedal to firm up on my ls7 clutch. It brought the release point to the very top of the pedal. I bled and bled and bled with a remote bleeder and it still wasn't very firm or at the top till I tried this. When i was bleeding it didn't seem like it was pushing a lot of fluid. Now when I push the pedal down with the remote bleeder cracked it streams out from the top to the bottom of the pedal. It boils down to thinking you still have air trapped in your system or your pressure plate hasn't fully adjusted out. Snapping the pedal on the return could help both and it's free.
This was my car last night:
01-19-2009, 01:29 PM
#31
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Wow that sucks, where are you located? It's nice here in houston in the winter, like 70 degrees now but the summers are way too hot and humid. Btw remember to take the cap off the reservoir and pump it fast.
01-19-2009, 07:58 PM
#33
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what's up aetos havent talk to you in awhile.i can fully confirm now, that my tickmaster adj cured my shifting problems.however, i do get notchyness in the freezing tempatures too.even my powersteering is tough an requires two hands when turning at low speeds.have you tried her with all the new goodies with temps of 40 an up yet?
01-19-2009, 07:59 PM
#34
what's up aetos havent talk to you in awhile.i can fully confirm now, that my tickmaster adj cured my shifting problems.however, i do get notchyness in the freezing tempatures too.even my powersteering is tough an requires two hands when turning at low speeds.have you tried her with all the new goodies with temps of 40 an up yet?
