Shifting issue still not solved...
Shifting issue still not solved... So, my shifting has gotten a lot better.
Tick Master
LS7 clutch
New Slave
But, a problem still persists.... there is still a slight block or slight grinding going into the gears when shifting very quick. Sitting at idle and shifting quick will either get you a block or grind for very little. Heres the thing though, if I hold the clutch pedal down for 3-5 seconds and then shift, the shifting is perfectly smooth, no grinding or block whatsoever, goes in as quick as you shift it. I'm gonna try bleeding it some more and see if that helps, anybody else have any ideas?
I also do hear some slight clunk/thump when going into a gear from neutral. Tonight while sitting at idle in my parking spot, I also realized if I press in the clutch I do hear some sort of clanging/clunking sound coming for the transmission area for 1second or so.
Tick Master
LS7 clutch
New Slave
But, a problem still persists.... there is still a slight block or slight grinding going into the gears when shifting very quick. Sitting at idle and shifting quick will either get you a block or grind for very little. Heres the thing though, if I hold the clutch pedal down for 3-5 seconds and then shift, the shifting is perfectly smooth, no grinding or block whatsoever, goes in as quick as you shift it. I'm gonna try bleeding it some more and see if that helps, anybody else have any ideas?
I also do hear some slight clunk/thump when going into a gear from neutral. Tonight while sitting at idle in my parking spot, I also realized if I press in the clutch I do hear some sort of clanging/clunking sound coming for the transmission area for 1second or so.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Fremont, CA
i have been having problems with my 3-4 shift, but i recently noticed that if i hold the clutch down a few more seconds, then it will shift onto 3rd or 4th most of the time without a grind. what is my problem?
should of put a bleeder extension on it, it literally took me 10 minutes to bleed and pedal is hard, no bench bleed or anything. With the Tick, the pedal should have less travel than stock, so if your extending it out more, than most likely its air.
So, my shifting has gotten a lot better.
Tick Master
LS7 clutch
New Slave
But, a problem still persists.... there is still a slight block or slight grinding going into the gears when shifting very quick. Sitting at idle and shifting quick will either get you a block or grind for very little. Heres the thing though, if I hold the clutch pedal down for 3-5 seconds and then shift, the shifting is perfectly smooth, no grinding or block whatsoever, goes in as quick as you shift it. I'm gonna try bleeding it some more and see if that helps, anybody else have any ideas?
I also do hear some slight clunk/thump when going into a gear from neutral. Tonight while sitting at idle in my parking spot, I also realized if I press in the clutch I do hear some sort of clanging/clunking sound coming for the transmission area for 1second or so.
Tick Master
LS7 clutch
New Slave
But, a problem still persists.... there is still a slight block or slight grinding going into the gears when shifting very quick. Sitting at idle and shifting quick will either get you a block or grind for very little. Heres the thing though, if I hold the clutch pedal down for 3-5 seconds and then shift, the shifting is perfectly smooth, no grinding or block whatsoever, goes in as quick as you shift it. I'm gonna try bleeding it some more and see if that helps, anybody else have any ideas?
I also do hear some slight clunk/thump when going into a gear from neutral. Tonight while sitting at idle in my parking spot, I also realized if I press in the clutch I do hear some sort of clanging/clunking sound coming for the transmission area for 1second or so.
I would make sure that you have regular Dex III fluid in the tranny first. We've had some problems with the Mobil 1 stuff here lately. If that has nothing to do with it, and adjusting the master doesn't help it may just be time to have the transmission itself gone through.
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When you're holding the clutch down for 3-5 seconds are you holding the rpms steady at your shifting rpm? Does it do the grind shifting at any rpm or just at the top of the rpms like during a hard run? If you're letting the rpms drop while you're waiting for 3-5 seconds, thats probably the reason it shifts smoother.
I would make sure that you have regular Dex III fluid in the tranny first. We've had some problems with the Mobil 1 stuff here lately. If that has nothing to do with it, and adjusting the master doesn't help it may just be time to have the transmission itself gone through.
I would make sure that you have regular Dex III fluid in the tranny first. We've had some problems with the Mobil 1 stuff here lately. If that has nothing to do with it, and adjusting the master doesn't help it may just be time to have the transmission itself gone through.
I last filled up with Mobile 1. Could tranny fluid cause this?
Another thing, if I have the mityvac hooked up into the reservior with lets say 12psi, should the pressure drop down by itself without doing anything? I can see the pressure gauge slowly dropping on the mityvac.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 1
From: League City, Tx
Are you talking about sitting at a dead stop with it running and just banging it through the gears? Because if so, I don't believe its ever going to easily/smoothly rip through the gears when sitting still.
I have had two LS1 cars, both since new and neither one could I just cram into gear and easily row through all 6 gears when sitting there without feeling some sort or gate or restriction. They always go into 1st easy but trying to just shift through the gears completely notch free? I don't think so. They need to be spinning inside to some degree to line the synchros up to allow the shift.
If I were you, I would be more concerned with how it shifts when going down the road and WOT.....matching wheel speed/rpms and see how it does. If you get a grind or blockage problem when shifting then, well I would say synchros are toast. No reason to be shifting through all the gears when sitting still anyway.
I have had two LS1 cars, both since new and neither one could I just cram into gear and easily row through all 6 gears when sitting there without feeling some sort or gate or restriction. They always go into 1st easy but trying to just shift through the gears completely notch free? I don't think so. They need to be spinning inside to some degree to line the synchros up to allow the shift.
If I were you, I would be more concerned with how it shifts when going down the road and WOT.....matching wheel speed/rpms and see how it does. If you get a grind or blockage problem when shifting then, well I would say synchros are toast. No reason to be shifting through all the gears when sitting still anyway.
Are you talking about sitting at a dead stop with it running and just banging it through the gears? Because if so, I don't believe its ever going to easily/smoothly rip through the gears when sitting still.
I have had two LS1 cars, both since new and neither one could I just cram into gear and easily row through all 6 gears when sitting there without feeling some sort or gate or restriction. They always go into 1st easy but trying to just shift through the gears completely notch free? I don't think so. They need to be spinning inside to some degree to line the synchros up to allow the shift.
If I were you, I would be more concerned with how it shifts when going down the road and WOT.....matching wheel speed/rpms and see how it does. If you get a grind or blockage problem when shifting then, well I would say synchros are toast. No reason to be shifting through all the gears when sitting still anyway.
I have had two LS1 cars, both since new and neither one could I just cram into gear and easily row through all 6 gears when sitting there without feeling some sort or gate or restriction. They always go into 1st easy but trying to just shift through the gears completely notch free? I don't think so. They need to be spinning inside to some degree to line the synchros up to allow the shift.
If I were you, I would be more concerned with how it shifts when going down the road and WOT.....matching wheel speed/rpms and see how it does. If you get a grind or blockage problem when shifting then, well I would say synchros are toast. No reason to be shifting through all the gears when sitting still anyway.
I think my system has a leak somewhere, I believe my car is driving worse and worse as the days go on leading me to believing I keep getting air in my system some way or another. The first night I was able to bang into second with relative easy(not perfect though, but the best I was ever able to) then into third. As the days go on, going into second gives me a bigger and bigger block. Whats the best way to check a leak, and a leak would probably explain me losing mity vac pressure, right?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 1
From: League City, Tx
Yeah I think you are getting air in the system or something. If its idling in neutral, and then you go to put it in 1st, you should never get a grind or block. IF so, either the clutch is not disegaging all the way or you have a messed up synchro(not sure the T56 has synchros for 1st or not, never built one). Either way, it sounds like you will probably have to pull the tranny. I would pull the tranny and send it to Tick for a basic rebuild, install a NEW Gm slave and put the remote bleeder line on it. As much as that sucks, it should fix your problem.
I bet running the shitty GM hydraulics for so long tore up the synchros.
I bet running the shitty GM hydraulics for so long tore up the synchros.
Yeah I think you are getting air in the system or something. If its idling in neutral, and then you go to put it in 1st, you should never get a grind or block. IF so, either the clutch is not disegaging all the way or you have a messed up synchro(not sure the T56 has synchros for 1st or not, never built one). Either way, it sounds like you will probably have to pull the tranny. I would pull the tranny and send it to Tick for a basic rebuild, install a NEW Gm slave and put the remote bleeder line on it. As much as that sucks, it should fix your problem.
I bet running the shitty GM hydraulics for so long tore up the synchros.
I bet running the shitty GM hydraulics for so long tore up the synchros.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Fremont, CA
i just bought my 02 ws6 and i believe its alll stock. THe grinding in 3rd and 4th is possibly the sycros, as i was told, but after holding down the cluth for 3-5 seconds while shifting into third, it shifts fine, still grinds in 4th most of the time though. I guess its the syncros or the shift forks which are aluminum and need to be upgraded due to a lot of wear?
i just bought my 02 ws6 and i believe its alll stock. THe grinding in 3rd and 4th is possibly the sycros, as i was told, but after holding down the cluth for 3-5 seconds while shifting into third, it shifts fine, still grinds in 4th most of the time though. I guess its the syncros or the shift forks which are aluminum and need to be upgraded due to a lot of wear?
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Fremont, CA
Only in 3rd and 4th man, i been driving and shifting from 2nd to 5th most of the time, but since i tried ur method, i can shift into 3rd now. It sucks because everyone is tellin me different things that could be wrong and i cant pinpoint the problem. Im new to all this car knowledge so im tryin to learn as well.
Only in 3rd and 4th man, i been driving and shifting from 2nd to 5th most of the time, but since i tried ur method, i can shift into 3rd now. It sucks because everyone is tellin me different things that could be wrong and i cant pinpoint the problem. Im new to all this car knowledge so im tryin to learn as well.
I believe, and really hope, my problem is hydraulic related.
Your problem is a lot worse than mine too. I can go into all gears, its just if I go into them fast it stops me. If I ease the shifter into gear all is fine; but this is in no way fast or comfortable at times.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Fremont, CA
Your problem is most likely tranny related because its only occurring in certain gears, not every gear as with me unless I'm extremely unlucky. Look up tick-performance for your rebuild if you don't mind having a little downtime when your transmission is out of state(if he is out of state).
I believe, and really hope, my problem is hydraulic related.
Your problem is a lot worse than mine too. I can go into all gears, its just if I go into them fast it stops me. If I ease the shifter into gear all is fine; but this is in no way fast or comfortable at times.
I believe, and really hope, my problem is hydraulic related.
Your problem is a lot worse than mine too. I can go into all gears, its just if I go into them fast it stops me. If I ease the shifter into gear all is fine; but this is in no way fast or comfortable at times.
Replace slave when you got tick master cylinder? Is it possible you left bleeder slightly open?
To answer your question about the mitivac.....the pressure can bleed off due to a leak in the little catch cup.....try blocking the end of the line with you finger and build up some pressure and see if pressure drops...
Did you try extending the master cylinder rod to disengage the clutch some more?
To answer your question about the mitivac.....the pressure can bleed off due to a leak in the little catch cup.....try blocking the end of the line with you finger and build up some pressure and see if pressure drops...
Did you try extending the master cylinder rod to disengage the clutch some more?
Replace slave when you got tick master cylinder? Is it possible you left bleeder slightly open?
To answer your question about the mitivac.....the pressure can bleed off due to a leak in the little catch cup.....try blocking the end of the line with you finger and build up some pressure and see if pressure drops...
Did you try extending the master cylinder rod to disengage the clutch some more?
To answer your question about the mitivac.....the pressure can bleed off due to a leak in the little catch cup.....try blocking the end of the line with you finger and build up some pressure and see if pressure drops...
Did you try extending the master cylinder rod to disengage the clutch some more?
If I do have a leak, where would be the best places to check for it?
