Never ending clutch problem
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From: Pensacola, FL
Never ending clutch problem Ok this has been a on going problem now. I recently installed a in adjustable master cylinder, warpped the line in heat wrap. Installed new fluid, bleed system repeatedly. Now the pedal is hard. I take the car out of the garage and down the street. Not 3 miles make a few pulls shifts fine. No problem going into gear. But the pedal seems to go away. After done bleeding the pedal will be firm at the top. After a few miles the pedal is firm half way down. Can anyone help me please. What else is there to do. I have not pressure bleed it. Autozone has a Mighty Vac but it looks fake. Made of Plastic and does not look like this one.
http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm
I pulled that from another thread on here.
http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm
I pulled that from another thread on here.
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From: Pensacola, FL
Yes when the pedal is firm the you can feel the pedal engauging all the way up. When the pedal goes about have way down the clutch will engauge sooner and be fully released half way up.
I will add too if the pedal goes weak. You can play with pedal by tapping on it. After maybe three or four times the pedal will return to the firm state and all teh way out.
I will add too if the pedal goes weak. You can play with pedal by tapping on it. After maybe three or four times the pedal will return to the firm state and all teh way out.
This sounds like a hydraulic issue that is allowing fluid to bypass. The most likely issue is the Master (if it were the slave you would generally see fluid leaking from the bell-housing). Have you checked you reservior to make sure that the fluid level is in check? Have you noticed any dampness around the master (on the inside of the firewall)? Have you checked the lines to see if they are swelling under pressure as they heat-up?
The fact that you can pump the pedal and it will regain pressure indicates that you are likely passing air within what should be a closed system. Check the above suggestions and let us know what you find. Thanks!
The fact that you can pump the pedal and it will regain pressure indicates that you are likely passing air within what should be a closed system. Check the above suggestions and let us know what you find. Thanks!
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From: Pensacola, FL
Yes the fluild level is full. There is no signs of leaks at the bell housing. I can't see if the line is swelling cause of the wrap that is on the line. Would it matter if it is a steel braided line? It is a stell braided line to. I just installed the adjustable master cylinder last weekend. This same problem was happening with the stock one. So I was given the advise to change the master. I did and the problem is still there. Could a clamp be causing the air into the system? There is a worm clamp that hold the rubber line going from the resivor to the master and then there is a wire tire that hold the rubber line at the resivor. Or one of the O rings at the slave where the line goes into the slave. Would pressure bleeding it eliminate any of the problems? Air in master or something.
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From: Pensacola, FL
O with the autozone in my area. Wow what a nightmare that was. I get the tool and no attachments were in the box. Just the gun and the hose.
They have one I can buy with all teh attachments and instructions. So I am thinking about going to buy it after work. I just realy don't get how it works. Yes it causes a vac in the system. But how is the fluild going to drop back down passed the hoes over the hole. Maybe I am missing something. If you check the first post the link shows how to do it, but I still don't see how the fluild is supposed to pass the hoes in the resiovor
That link was inop so I pasting another one
http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm
They have one I can buy with all teh attachments and instructions. So I am thinking about going to buy it after work. I just realy don't get how it works. Yes it causes a vac in the system. But how is the fluild going to drop back down passed the hoes over the hole. Maybe I am missing something. If you check the first post the link shows how to do it, but I still don't see how the fluild is supposed to pass the hoes in the resiovor
That link was inop so I pasting another one
http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm
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From: Pensacola, FL
Well I bought a mity Vac it sucked for about 20 minutes pulling big bubbles, we broke the vacuum and filled the resivor. Then started again. @12 hg of vacuum I started to pull a steady stream of very small bubbles that carried on for a while. After sitting there watching the amount of bubble decrease we stopped. Then got no farther then the end of my street, then the clutch has no pressure till about the floor. But will still change gears.
oh, and ditch the adjustable mc... I had nothing but bad luck with mine. A new stock mc is SO NICE now
I've got a southbend stage 3 clutch rated at 680 ft/lbs!!!!!! Feels like stock but NO slip!!! before I had a stock clutch and a shitty mcleod adjustable mc which always heated up or the pedal level changed... real pita!
good luck
I've got a southbend stage 3 clutch rated at 680 ft/lbs!!!!!! Feels like stock but NO slip!!! before I had a stock clutch and a shitty mcleod adjustable mc which always heated up or the pedal level changed... real pita!good luck
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From: Pensacola, FL
Man this not good at all. I am going to take out the master and the lines/res. And bench bleed it out of the car. By doing this I am hoping to eliminate the those as a problem, If it won't hold the pressure then I know it is bad. If it will hold pressure then I would have to belive the slave is the problem.
? What type of clamp should be holding the rubber line to the bottom of the resivor? Wire tie, worm clamp, hoes clamp. When i pulled the line off to put in the new MC it was a black wire tie, is that what it supposed to be?
Has anyone seen the o rings go bad at the slave and the MC line? Is there any way to test and see if the slave is bad with out replacing it?
? What type of clamp should be holding the rubber line to the bottom of the resivor? Wire tie, worm clamp, hoes clamp. When i pulled the line off to put in the new MC it was a black wire tie, is that what it supposed to be?
Has anyone seen the o rings go bad at the slave and the MC line? Is there any way to test and see if the slave is bad with out replacing it?
Man this not good at all. I am going to take out the master and the lines/res. And bench bleed it out of the car. By doing this I am hoping to eliminate the those as a problem, If it won't hold the pressure then I know it is bad. If it will hold pressure then I would have to belive the slave is the problem.
? What type of clamp should be holding the rubber line to the bottom of the resivor? Wire tie, worm clamp, hoes clamp. When i pulled the line off to put in the new MC it was a black wire tie, is that what it supposed to be?
Has anyone seen the o rings go bad at the slave and the MC line? Is there any way to test and see if the slave is bad with out replacing it?
? What type of clamp should be holding the rubber line to the bottom of the resivor? Wire tie, worm clamp, hoes clamp. When i pulled the line off to put in the new MC it was a black wire tie, is that what it supposed to be?
Has anyone seen the o rings go bad at the slave and the MC line? Is there any way to test and see if the slave is bad with out replacing it?
You could use a zip tie to hold the hose to the mc, but I used one of those small screw clamps which are made of metal. I felt that the metal one kept a tight grip all the way around. The zip tie would have a little pinch point right at the lock point and at that point I feel it could leak.
I never heard of the o-ring going bad, but that does not mean that it could not happen.
If you're paying to have the slave installed, you might as well get a clutch installed too all for the same price.
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From: Pensacola, FL
7Camaro7 Ok i am goignto get two small hoes clamps for the line. I do all my work myself,
but my cluthc has less than 5k miles on it. I did order a slave today, just in case I did need one.
I did talk to a local performance shop and they said there is still air in the system some where. I am going to pull the master back out bench bleed it, one more time. install hoes clamps and reinstall the MC. If the MC holds pressure and no leaks are found I am going to stuff it back in the car and see if that helps my problem. Then bleed the little bit of air out of the slave. Trying use process of elimation before pulling tranny out. The performance shop has a pressure bleeder that they said they would hook up for me. IF all of this fails yet again.
but my cluthc has less than 5k miles on it. I did order a slave today, just in case I did need one.
I did talk to a local performance shop and they said there is still air in the system some where. I am going to pull the master back out bench bleed it, one more time. install hoes clamps and reinstall the MC. If the MC holds pressure and no leaks are found I am going to stuff it back in the car and see if that helps my problem. Then bleed the little bit of air out of the slave. Trying use process of elimation before pulling tranny out. The performance shop has a pressure bleeder that they said they would hook up for me. IF all of this fails yet again.
that's cool. I was trying to bleed mine too, but my slave which was leaking, was also allowing air to enter the system. So you probably do have air getting in. Check the mc and if its good, then you'll know it is the slave. I did the elimination thing too and I don't blame you because ***** too high!
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From: Pensacola, FL
Ok my car was sitting in the garage all day while I was at work. I came home and jacked the car. There was a drop of clutch fluid around the green coupler. Then found more residue under the white relase collar. I disconnected the line and went down to Rubber Specialties and got a new o-ring for the line. Installed the o-ring and hooked the line up. Hooked up Mity Vac and sucked two big air bubbles and that was it. Took for test drive and all seems to be good at this point. Only time will tell. I can't belive it was something that small. I will keep this thread up dated be the end of weekend.
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From: Pensacola, FL
Ok the problem is back again. Drove the car yesterday and every thing seemed ok. Then I drove the car to work this morning and the pedal started to do the same thing. I jacked the rear end of the car up and supported the axle on stands. I started the car and put the car in second, with teh clutch in and gave it gas. Both wheels did NOT turn.
any hints with my problem now? The only thing that I can think of now it either there is another bad o ring some where or there is a bad slave.
any hints with my problem now? The only thing that I can think of now it either there is another bad o ring some where or there is a bad slave.
