HELP stumped
02-24-2009, 06:42 PM
#21
they didint bench bleed it .i asked them to try that and they said that these master cylinders cant be bench bled ..oh man do i regret taking it to that shop $2600 later and still SS...i bought a luk clutch master and slave...and yes the pedal is still soft ,mighty vac took some air out but i guess not all of it ......im sure its not the braided line because when i disconnect it from the slave and bleed it the pedal gets rock hard ,cant even pust it down an inch.so that means its ok right . o should of replaced the O rings ...o well ill see what the shop i just towed it to tells me
02-25-2009, 02:36 AM
#23
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good luck finding a shop to work on it, alot of shops wont take another shops mess up...but sounds like when you try to start it in gear, the clutch is still engaged cause of air in the system..why your battery is beeing drained..your master sounds fine, but sounds like you still hav air in the system, or they just didnt install the stuff right..try the mighty vac, or btr yet...gravity bleed it
02-25-2009, 10:00 AM
#24
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im taking it to a shop that my cousin took his 99 z28 to , and he is going to bleed it and if not he is going to see and figure out what the other shop did wrong. hopefully he can bleed it out .............
02-28-2009, 01:10 AM
#26
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had the car towed wed. then left to disneyland and just got back ,but now i have to wait till monday to see whats going on wit the SS ..ill get back monday with the status
03-02-2009, 04:05 PM
#28
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well the other shop could not bleed it either so im getrting another braided line from a member here. so im towing the car back home again pull the master and wait for the line to get here swap them out and see if it will fix the problem .if not then im buying some dynomite and blowing it up......................
03-03-2009, 06:15 PM
#30
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got the SS home ,the first shop that did my tranny said not to get a used line ,so i went to the stealership today and bought the whole mc assembly .so i intalled it and having it towed back in the morning to have it pressure bled
03-03-2009, 07:55 PM
#31
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at least now it starts in while gear but it wont let me get out of gear while the car is on . the pedal feels good enough to at least let it go in gear . SO the car is in first gear foot on brake other foot clutch pedal all the way down , while CLUTCH PEDAL DOWN i let go of the of the brake and the car start going WHAT DOES THAT MEAN????????????
03-04-2009, 03:00 PM
#33
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It means there is still air in the line. I put a new slave, and clutch in about 9 months ago and had this problem. I'm getting a new MC soon through the GP they had with tick. But there is def. still air in the system somewhere. I know it gets tiring hearing there is still air in the system and you bled it and it's still the same, but from the things you're saying it sounds to me like there is still air somewhere. Mine had all the symptoms yours has, I called a lot of buddies and they told me to keep bleeding it.
03-04-2009, 03:09 PM
#34
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well thats better to hear then saying they would have to pull the tranny out ...well they were suppose to pick it up this morning but they havent ,and i cant call cause i lost my phone soooooooooooooo angry..thanks for the input guys
03-05-2009, 08:05 PM
#35
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GUESS WHAT!!!! they bled it ......................................but now they said it needs shims great more money....the clutch i had them put in was a luk performance clutch , and my cousin put the same one in his z28 and didint need a shim why does my SS need one ?(same year camaros)????????????
Last edited by Big Black SS; 03-05-2009 at 08:34 PM.
03-05-2009, 08:40 PM
#37
Whenever I put a new clutch in, I install the clutch assem and bellhousing and then I measure the distance from the PP fingers to the trans mating surface of the bell housing. Then, I measure from the surface of the throwout bearing while it is pushed back all the way, to the trans face where it meets the bell housing. I try to shim to leave between .070 and .120 of play before the slave is bottomed all the way out. Its easier to have someone hold the T-bearing back while you measure.
03-05-2009, 10:23 PM
#39
I cant answer that. Here's what I've found and read with various parts installs and mods with these cars. What works on one may not work on the next. It could be that one car has a few tenths extra on a slave surface, a thicker flywheel, or something slightly different with their hydraulics. At any rate, some of this becomes a process of elimination. By measuring install distances, you're removing one more potential problem. I decided to do this after reading many threads like yours just so I felt like I had a starting point IF I ever did have problems. BTW, you always want to leave some distance for the slave to travel farther back as the clutch fingers will be further back as the disk wears. I personally think .120 is a good number. Maybe someone here has measured finger height with a disk measuring .350 thick vs one worn down to .310 or so.
03-07-2009, 11:21 AM
#40
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well the shop called luk performance and luk told the shop that it does not need a shim ,and insist that there is air in it somewhere . so they are going to try to reverse bleed it . so we'll see what happens on monday