just towed my car out of the shop cause they couldent bleed it (99 ss) but they did rebuilt the tranny new clutch flywheel slave and new master ....towed it home bought a mity vac bled it in 25 minutes but now .......if the car is in neutral i press down the cutch pedal it starts fine , but it wont go into any gear ,try to put it in first car very very slighty moves ,but wont go in gear....now if the car is off it will go in all the gears just fine.....try to start it with it in gear and the car doesent want to start and is draining the crap out of the battery (optima bat.) ...please help

 

If im picturing this right from what your saying, the clutch is not competely disengaging. most of the time spent on my clutch swap this week went to measuring the distance on the if you need a shim sticky{me friend and I went back and forth arguing dimensions} if the rear tires are off the ground are you able to put it in gear then? If so id definitly look into the measurement of your TOB to clutch fingers. when you crank it in gear is it SLOW "lopey"?like the car wants to roll? I had a close situation liek this on my 87 stang before i converted. The issue ended up being the manual clutch cable was a little to long for the aftermarket clutch i put in it, causign the clutch to not disengage. If im way off feel free to correct me. the mustang had no neutral safety switch so it would start in first gear and just roll.

 

actually my cousin just had the same clutch installed in his 99 z28 and his runs perfect ,thats why im stumped

 

I'd say there's probably still air in the system somewhere. I had the same problem when I installed my clutch and slave. Wouldn't go into any gear. I bled it for probably 2 hours. It started going into gears, but not very easily and it wouldn't go into reverse. I drove it around and bled it again. It took a while but it works great now. New tick mc on the way. Should work even better.

 

you still didnt say if the car is trying to move when you turn it over, I will say bleeding yeah it seriously took me forever. you cant pump up the pedal like you would in a brake system.

 

the car does not try to move when i crank it ...but why does it strain the battery when i have it in gear and try to start it?

 

id try to bleed the hell out of it. if that doesnt help id take it back to the garage and tell them to fix it. if they give you the cold shoulder call a local news company they love to trash on local buisnesses that shaft there patrons

sorry i dont have much more this was my first clutch swap and i didnt experience what your speaking of.

 

It's straining it cuz it's trying to start in gear. Your TOB isn't disengaging the clutch fully or at all. Not enough pressure going to the slave probably because theres air. I cracked the bleeder on the slave and put a piece of rubber hose on the bleeder and stuck the hose into a bottle filled about half way with DOT3 brake fluid and just pumped the crap outta the clutch. Then I bled it by hand by having someone slowly pump the clutch a couple of times and hold it to the floor while I cracked the bleeder. Like I said it took atleast two hours. Idk sometimes people get lucky with it and don't have any problems

 

ok i really dont want to take it back to that shop and im about to close on a house so im limited on my spending and cant take it to another shop..so if every one can put in there two cents on what they did to bleed there car so tomorrow i can spend all day on it that would be great thanks guys ......i thought it my be something inside the tranny but im glad it seems i just need to bleed it more .think i might switch out the O ring on the slave side of the braided hose please any tips and tricks

 

to the top

 

Well, you definitely need to get your ducks in a row. You said this shop REBUILT your tranny, but yet, does not know how to bleed the hydraulics?? You need to check your receipt/paper work and see what type of warranty you have before you put ANY miles on this thing. I mean, I would be worried about a transmission being rebuilt by some guys that can't bleed the system

Now, it is more than likely a bleeding concern, the problem you are experiencing, but is could also be internally, so keep that in mind as you may not be quite done with these yahoo's.

As mentioned, just start pumping and bleeding until you have no more air in the line, and once you are sure of that and you still have the problem, you can move on to teh next. Shimming.

 

as soon as i can bleed it and make sure i am driving it straight over there so they can see it was only driving from my house back to there shop so they wont try to get out of the warranty part. now the shimming part ,my cousin has a 99 z28 same year as my SS and had all the exact same part put in only at a different shop so do i really need shims?

 

whats a "TOB"?? GUESS im just going to have it towed to another shop tomorrow to see if they can figure it out

 

TOB is throw out bearing it is the black plastic/metal bearing on the end of the slave cylnder. As for bleeding i just finished a fresh install of a centerforce df3 clutch in my 2002 ss and no lie an hour of bleeding. I had my friend sit in the car, told him to push the pedal down 1/4 inch and i opened it told him to push it to the floor closed it when he got there and this is probebly frowned uppon,,i told him to manualy lift the clutch pedal off the floor. When he did that the dot 3 in the tank looked like someone was sucking it out with a straw. filled it up to top rebleed about 20 or so times untill i felt good with it. now i have about 1/4 inch of play on the pedal b4 it starts to losen the clutch{i like it that way im a clutch hoverer}

 

Throwout bearing. Didnt you PM me about this? After you bled the system, how does the clutch pedal feel? It should feel pretty stiff if you got it bled good. If not, it still has air in the system. I am almost willing to bet your pedal is soft. What kind of clutch was installed? It shouldnt need shimmed though. Yea, like the other guy said, they can REBUILD a tranny but cant bleed the hydraulics? What kind of shop did you take your car to?

 

I wouldnt do any of that stuff. I would get the mityvac out & pull the air out that way, right through the reservoir. When they replaced the master, they prolly didnt bench bleed it before installing it so its gotta still have some air in it.

 

I am thinking that somewhere he said he did teh Mityvac already. I am interested in knowing how his pedal feels, so.....

How does your pedal feel? Soft? Spongy? Hard?

 

In another post, he did say his pedal is still soft so gotta have air trapped somewhere.

 

OK, gotcha, missed that one, thanks.
I agree

 

they didint bench bleed it .i asked them to try that and they said that these master cylinders cant be bench bled ..oh man do i regret taking it to that shop $2600 later and still SS...i bought a luk clutch master and slave...and yes the pedal is still soft ,mighty vac took some air out but i guess not all of it ......im sure its not the braided line because when i disconnect it from the slave and bleed it the pedal gets rock hard ,cant even pust it down an inch.so that means its ok right . o should of replaced the O rings ...o well ill see what the shop i just towed it to tells me