Can't get all air out of the clutch master...
03-08-2009, 02:01 PM
#1
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Can't get all air out of the clutch master... I just put a new clutch in my car about a month ago and I can't get the system to bleed right so the car will go into gear. (00 z28 m6) I've tried manually bleeding the system and with a vaccum pump and nothing seems to get all of the air out of the system. Also, is there a special tool that makes it easer to open and close the bleeder? Any ideas? Thank you.
03-09-2009, 07:37 AM
#2
Did you try bench bleeding the master? In my opinion there is no substitue for a remote bleeder. I can completely flush my system in a matter of minutes without even as much as bending down. The line is up in my engine bay.
The only other thing I can think of... Some people that run the LS7 clutch have issues when they first do the install. They have to put the car in gear while the motor is off, then start it and go. That do that for alittle bit til it gets an intial "break in" going... I dont know anything about the clutch you installed though....so thats probably not much help.
I never tried vac bleeding, and motive power bleeder, but none have worked as well as the remote bleeder.
J.
The only other thing I can think of... Some people that run the LS7 clutch have issues when they first do the install. They have to put the car in gear while the motor is off, then start it and go. That do that for alittle bit til it gets an intial "break in" going... I dont know anything about the clutch you installed though....so thats probably not much help.
I never tried vac bleeding, and motive power bleeder, but none have worked as well as the remote bleeder.
J.
03-09-2009, 09:09 AM
#3
Are you talking strictly about the master or the whole setup? If just the master, "gravity" bleeding it is the way to go, although it doesn't have to be removed from the car to do this. Unplug the braided line from the slave cylinder, pop open the reservoir and make sure it's filled with fresh fluid, then get under the car with a small phillips head screwdriver and press the little tab in on the end of the line to open it so that fluid starts running out. Let it drain until your reservoir is low, then release so it closes. Fill the reservoir up again with new, fresh fluid and repeat the process until it is low again. Repeat this whole process until you've run about half a bottle or more of break fluid through the master. The fluid coming out the line should be clear, new fluid.
Make sure you refill when the reservoir is LOW, not empty. If you allow it to fully drain, air will get into the master and you'll have to repeat the whole process again using probably a full bottle of fluid to make sure there is no air in the master.
Make sure you refill when the reservoir is LOW, not empty. If you allow it to fully drain, air will get into the master and you'll have to repeat the whole process again using probably a full bottle of fluid to make sure there is no air in the master.
03-09-2009, 10:14 AM
#5
I guess we should ask how you know there is still air in the system? What are the symptoms?
And to answer your question about opening the bleeder, check out the remote bleeder in this link (near the bottom of the page):
http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ulics/#bleeder
And to answer your question about opening the bleeder, check out the remote bleeder in this link (near the bottom of the page):
http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ulics/#bleeder
03-09-2009, 06:08 PM
#6
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Here is the entire story. The clutch & pressure plate are a used mcleud set up with 5k on them. New gm master and slave with a new pilot & t/o bearing. I bench bled the system after performing the drill mod and then put it into teh car. A buddy and I bled the system manually for about 15 minutes and then again for another 15 minutes with a vaccum pump. The car will still not go into gear with the engine running with the clutch pushed in.
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03-10-2009, 10:06 AM
#9
Something people need to remember is that when you add brake fluid, it will cause aeration in the fluid. The best way to get rid of it is to bleed the line and resevoir with clean fluid, then put on a mityvac with just a little bit of vacuum and let it sit for 30-40 minutes. This will help to pull the air out of the fluid that is in the resevoir.
Take your time, and don't pump the peddle till all of the air is out of the resevoir or else you're going to pump the air through the rest of the system. Patience is critical here and this can't be rushed.
Take your time, and don't pump the peddle till all of the air is out of the resevoir or else you're going to pump the air through the rest of the system. Patience is critical here and this can't be rushed.
03-10-2009, 02:07 PM
#10
Here is the entire story. The clutch & pressure plate are a used mcleud set up with 5k on them. New gm master and slave with a new pilot & t/o bearing. I bench bled the system after performing the drill mod and then put it into teh car. A buddy and I bled the system manually for about 15 minutes and then again for another 15 minutes with a vaccum pump. The car will still not go into gear with the engine running with the clutch pushed in.
03-10-2009, 06:33 PM
#13
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http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm this helped mine out. got it from autozone for $30
03-10-2009, 06:36 PM
#14
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This question is for ghettocruiser. It says in your quote that you have ported and milled 5.3 heads. Do you like them? what kind of power did you get out of them? How much did they cost you, and where did you get them. I know it doesn't have anything to do with this thread but I had to ask.
03-11-2009, 07:06 AM
#15
http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm this helped mine out. got it from autozone for $30
03-11-2009, 09:02 AM
#16
This question is for ghettocruiser. It says in your quote that you have ported and milled 5.3 heads. Do you like them? what kind of power did you get out of them? How much did they cost you, and where did you get them. I know it doesn't have anything to do with this thread but I had to ask.
The heads are MTI and I THINK they came from Thunder Racing. My motor was already built when I got it. I pulled it from a donor, and my sig is a reflection of the reciepts that I got plus what the previous owner told me. Mostly verified by the engine builder also.
As for how the car runs... It runs good. I havent had it dyno'd yet, but I hope to this summer. Ive changed a few parts, and I feel it needs to be re-tuned, or atleast tuned for better performance. I can tell you that there is a slight lag in torque off the line... Mostly due to cam specs I believe. The car is no slouch...and it actually helps with launching. But it will rev happily to 7k+ and pulls like a freight train the entire way.
Other than that...I cant tell you much about em. I run high test gas and wont run anything lower due to compression. Thats about it.
J.
03-11-2009, 03:51 PM
#17
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Still no luck with bleeding the master. with the mightyvac that is. No bubbles came out. I think the problem is with my shimming my slave (wasn't supposed to) or getting an adj master cyl.
