badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

ive never bled a clutch before and i have literally searched the last few days on how to bleed with a tick remote bleeder, and have come up empty handed. so im forced to post this. i tried yesterday, i was in the car on my brother was under the hood with the bleeder. the resevoir cap was off. he would crack the bleeder and i would push the clutch down, then he would close the bleeder and i would pull the clutch up (would not come up on its own), then he would open bleeder, i would push clutch down, he would close bleeder and i would pull clutch up. we did this quiet a few times. so is this correct, if not, how do i bleed it. thanks. Dan.

p.s. its a brand new ls7 clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and a rebuilt transmission.

red02Hawk

iTrader: (9)

i had a hell of a time bleeding mine as well, so i just let it sit overnight, went back out in the morning cracked the bleeder valve, closed it, and it magically had pressure

breecher_7

iTrader: (1)

I just installed the tick master and speed bleeder on a C5... Just filled the master, pushed in the connection with a screwdriver till it started dripping, reconnected it to the slave, cracked open the speed bleeder and bled a quart of brake fluid through it. Took 20 mins... On the vettes there is a removable inspection cover, slave is working perfecty....

Was very simple.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

Do yourself a favor and get or rent a Mity-Vac. It makes bleeding the system so easy. I bled my whole system, which was bone dry, in one shot.

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

I just did this.

Leave the bleeder open and pump until clean fluid comes, no reason to close it off or anything, it will just kinda spurt out and you'll have to keep refilling the reservoir. The pedal will stick to the floor while doing this. Once clean fluid is coming out, shut the bleeder, top off the reservoir, and close it. Pedal feel will come right back after a few pumps.

It's that easy, and literally takes about 2 minutes, don't make it any more complicated than that. I have the mityvac as well and the speed bleeder is the best. You can't beat it and anyone who sais otherwise is a knucklehead.


I also have speed bleeders on all four of my brake lines.

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

^^^i will try it like you just suggested. it doesnt sound hard at all. thanks guys.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

i dunno about the tick version, but i have the LPP version (http://www.lpparts.com/), and it has a checkball at the end of the bleeder. you just loosen it up, put a hose on the end, and just pump the clutch pedal slowly to bleed. refill the res every 4-5 pumps

black00ssFL

iTrader: (24)

What was said above about leaving the bleeder open is the right way. If you have the new tick remote bleeder, it has a speed bleeder on it with a one-way valve. I just did an LS7 clutch swap and used the Tick master and remote bleeder. The remote bleeder is a godsend! I only have 350 miles on the clutch...so no real review on that yet.

But, if You put all new hydraulics in, did you bench bleed the master? If not this is what you need to do.

1. Remove the Master (I know PITA).
2. Put master in a vice or something strong to keep it still, make sure the resevior is above it.
3. Then get a bowl and fill it with brake fluid.
4. Then get something like a screwdriver to push in the middle of the quick disconnect fitting
5. Submerge the fitting in the fluid while still pushing it with the screw driver and then beging pumping the master (this is where a friend would really help).
Keep doing that until there are no more air bubbles coming out.
6. Now replace master cylinder and connect the fitting. Now it's time to rebleed.
7. Get a small cup and fill it about 1/4 of the way with brake fluid.
8. Open the bleeder and submerge it into the cup.
9. Pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times. You should see air bubbles in the fluid in the cup (using a clear cup helps, I just used the resevior of my mighty vac). And yes, you have to manually bring the pedal back up the first few times (I had to do it for about 7 pumps and that was with a new/dry slave installed)
10. Now check the resevior to make sure you still have plenty of fluid.
11. Repeat steps 9-10 until no more air is coming out.
12. Remove bleeder from fluid and then close it.
13. You should be good from there, and it's short and sweet (actual bleeding of my car took 5 minutes, and was easier than the mighty vac).

Personally, after doing that I would then drive it around for awhile, let it sit overnight, and then bleed it again...just to make sure you got any trapped air bubbles out.

badazz99ta

iTrader: (13)

i put a new master in and i didnt bench bleed it. is it necessary to remove it, or is it optional. and if air bubble are in the system, what will that do.