Alright Im wanting to know what would make a McLeod Master stick to the floor........... was pressure bled with a tool, basically bench bled, new slave. Was fine but after 20 minutes it started getting stuck to the floor........ any ideas? It has been adjusted but still sticks. I was maybe thinking it could be the spring in the clutch pedal?

Thanks
Mike

 

I think you have to bleed it some more. Did you bleed it from the slave as well?

 

The unit is busted, the clutch pedal spring any effects like the last 1/2 of travel.

 

The master was fine before, what do you mean busted? The master only has about 3k on it. Im thinkin maybe the whole system should be re-bled. If it was busted, it would leak correct? No leaks at all.

 

Unless Mcloed came out with an new and improved MC, they have had horrendous issues over the years.

You could re bleed which is always recommended but this has been common place.

Tick MC works great for me and I would always recommend them.

If it was working fine for 3k then started to Pedal crash, then there is an issue. Id also ask about the Slave off the trans, whats the milage on that?

 

Did all this happen after you replaced the slave?

 

Its on a friends car. Heres the deal.

I got this master off of my friend, worked fine in his car, no issues. 3k on it, I turned around and sold it to someone else. They stuck it on their car and the pedal is sticking. When I sold it to the guy we pulled the bottom piece with the braded line off and emptied the fluid, fluid was a black color. I was told the guy who installed the MC just filled it with fluid from the reservoir and used a pressurizer or some kind of tool to bleed it. Then I think they installed it. I told him to have him pull the master apart, flush it out, bleed it and reinstall and then bleed the whole system including the slave. Before he installed the McLeod he had a stock that worked good but wouldnt engage good in 3rd. He says the flywheel was slightly turned before install of the clutch system and a shim wouldnt fit in there. Everything besides the McLeod is about 2 months old. I think the McLeod just has some air in it or has some particles in it. Worked great on a buddies car before and didnt have the drill mod. The guy I sold the MC to put his line on it and does have the drill mod. It may be his line that is bad but it came off the stocker that worked great so not sure. I just no that this is a newer version of the McLeod and shouldnt have any issues after 3k. What do you guys think... thats the whole situation.

Thanks
Mike

 

Thanks man. I was just about to come in here and post the details. You pretty much have it covered except for one thing. We just put it on the car and then bled it. We didn't do anything to it before. Car ran fine with stock master and the same braided line. The pedal never moved once in the two months I had it in there. It just wouln't shift over 5k rpm's. It almost has to be air in the lines or something if it was empty. We only bled it once or twice for a couple of pumps. It did feel fine when I left the shop but by the time I got home, it was gone. It may also be my braided line. It has 130,000 miles on it and it's been next to the header for most of those I'm sure. Can the braided lines just wear out and get thin? It is ziptied back from the headers now btw. I'm going to try and get it totally bled out and see what happens. Anyone know where I can buy just a new braided line if I need one? Thanks for any help.

 

Yea if he only bled it twice thats not nearly enough, shouldve known better than that. Took me and another guy about 1hr to bench bleed my stocker really good.

 

To try and help ( besides saying what has been said about the poor record of these masters )

Option 1

Your fluid is getting to hot and is boiling over, becoming no good, change it out- and rebleed the clutch properly- it takes a good amount of time - Should fix all ur problems if the unit is not damaged.

Wanna run away with the spoon - Here are ur other options so you can really get ahead of urself.

Option 2

You are saying they used a pressure bleeder? No recommended - Using a pressure based bleeder probably damaged the unit - they take very little vac to damage them internally- So the unit probably was good before the install was completed then damged before the car ever moved

Option 3

The line that delivers fluid to the salve from the master ( at the quick fitting connection isnt fully seated or in place ) a simple removal and reinstall will check that - This is what I think of when someone says their pedal is hard stuck-

Option 4

"WTF ur installer?"
Slightly resurface a flywheel? - Couldnt install a shim? If the clutch installed requires a shim ( and I imagine they wouldnt even know how to measure how to know ) then that its going to be a problem.

 

It was not a pressure bleeder. Also the pedal is not stuck hard. It comes and goes while driving. The strange thing is after I pump it up and get a good pedal, I can power shift in every gear at any rpm. Driving it under normal conditions is when it starts to fail. Also, while just rolling in any gear, if I just bearly rest my foot on the clutch pedal, it will slowly drop to the floor. I 'm not putting any pressure at all on it and it does this. I pull it back up with my toe and it's good for few minutes. The installer knows EXACTLY what he is doing so I don't know. It has to be a failing part and has nothing to do with the install.

 

My McLeod MC likes to play around also. Sometimes it would be fine and then other times there would be alot of play in my pedal and I dont like it. I plan to either try out that Tick MC or change back to a stock MC

 

He told me that he used a pressure bleeder. Bleed it good on a bench and let me know how it works for you. If not you can bring it by and well bench bleed it, just need a bottle of brake fluid and a screwdriver to open the master and some elbo grease.

 

That's sounds like a great idea and you are much, much closer. When can we do this? I have a bottle of fluid at home. I guess I'm confused on pressure and bench bleeding.

 

Ill let you know when Im available.

 

Just put in a Tick Master Cylinder, probably will solve the issue.

 

I was reading something and it says when replacing your master cylinder on 1998-2000 model F-Bodies, it is recommended that you upgrade to the 2001+ style GM slave cylinder which is an upgraded design. Is this true and why? I'm pretty good with turning a wrench etc. I'm not to intelligent when it comes to clutchs and transmissions.

 

Well the improved hydraulics are master and slave together but his slave is new and prob the newer versions which are sold generically at oreilly's and are LS6 style. Anything you get new now will be the upgraded versions.

 

Give me 300 bones and I'll buy one. I don't have that much extra cash just to throw at a problem. If they will refund my money if it don't fix it, now that's a different story.

 

If your Mcleod master was purchased before Oct 2008 then you have a Generation I master cylinder with the inferior piston design. We suspended the production of this master Last March 2008 and did a complete redesign using the wilwood internals. If your unit is older than 1 year and you are having problems, we will upgrade you to the Gen II design for $125.00. If the unit is less than a year old and you have documentation to support that then we we stand behind a full warranty replacent at no charge. Go to our website www.mcleodind.com click on the 10th tab "RGA Form" fill the form out and send it in.