TICK performance master cylinder **installed**
#22
#24
I just installed my Tick m/c today with an LS7 clutch today... WOW! what a big difference in shifting smoothness and disengagement! That Tick m/c pushes way more fluid than the stocker. I could see that clearly when bench bleeding it.
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#26
This Tick m/c pushes alot more fluid than the stocker. The stocker is a joke compared to the Tick m/c.
Basically I lengthend the adjustment rod just long enough to where the shifts weren't knotchy and the clutch would disengage much better. Thus it brought my clutch peddle higher off the floor.
Every car is different. I think you sort of have to dial in the settings abit.
This Tick m/c made my new LS7 work like it should.
Perhaps Joey from Tick or someone else can give some insight.
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#28
That would be nice. How is the fluid amount being pushed adjustable? I thought that was the whole point of this Master. If its only the rod that is adjustable then what is the point of and adjustable stocker like a RAM?
#29
To adjust it, simply legnthen the rod till the car will go into gear from a stop easily. Then take it out, beat on it and fine tune the adjustment until the car will shift smoothly at high rpms. The longer you adjust the rod, the more fluid you will push therefore the more dissengagement you'd achieve. This is all possible because the bore of the cylinder is larger than factory. Once everything is adjusted properly, the pedal may not even be out as far as the factory pedal....
#30
Your car is a beast !
My videos wouldn't be as interesting. I have to do more work to my bird.
I'll see about posting some videos in the near future.
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#31
The more leverage or throw you have on the peddle, the more hydraulic fluid the Tick m/c will push. The adjustable Ram is not even comparable. The Tick m/c works without a doubt.
That was a good explanation Jonathan from Tick posted.
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#32
Just got mine installed and running yesterday. Holy lord it feels like a different car. Half the pedal travel from before and twice as stiff.
Question for yall how are you guys tightening down the locking nuts on either side of the adjusting rod? I cant get my hands up there even with the kick panels removed!
Question for yall how are you guys tightening down the locking nuts on either side of the adjusting rod? I cant get my hands up there even with the kick panels removed!
#33
Just got mine installed and running yesterday. Holy lord it feels like a different car. Half the pedal travel from before and twice as stiff.
Question for yall how are you guys tightening down the locking nuts on either side of the adjusting rod? I cant get my hands up there even with the kick panels removed!
Question for yall how are you guys tightening down the locking nuts on either side of the adjusting rod? I cant get my hands up there even with the kick panels removed!
I snugged the nut near the peddle first and then snugged the rod end last.
( Not to tight just snug ) As the clutch wears you can re-adjust your
Tick m/c.
I know it's a tight fit underneath there.
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#34
I just got my car back from having the Tick MC and Textralia twin-disc put in. MAAAAN! What a huge difference it made. If feels like a totally different car now. It fully engages about 25% off the floor and the engagement point is short and tight as hell. I killed the car a few times right when I first picked it up cause I wasn't used to it yet, lol. A few minutes into driving it though and the car and I became closely acquainted once again. I can shift so much faster than before now too. I won't power shifting just yet since the clutch hasn't been fully broken in, but as soon as it is, I have a feeling my 10 bolt will be cursing my name.
#40
i just did mine and the install was cake...much easier then i thought the old was out and the new was in in 2 hours about and that includes bleeding also...but my spec is pretty much done now and im going to need one of those monsters ;-)