Ticks Master cylinder installed?
Ticks Master cylinder installed? Ok so i got it in installed still having same issue can shift at high rpms and still jumps forward when clutched in! I am sure it isnt ticks cylinder its forsure a quality piece !
I have tex x grip cluth and m12 tranny both have about 5000 miles on them! What else could be causing these i am at a loss for sure!
I have tex x grip cluth and m12 tranny both have about 5000 miles on them! What else could be causing these i am at a loss for sure!
Hmm yes new slave and i was told not to shim it ????? has anyone else shimmed there textraila clutch? Its didnt always do this started about 300 miles ago and got worse thought the new master cylinder would have helped!
I have the tick master too, and it is the best money I have spent on my car,,, First thing is make sure you got it bled good. Then I would jack the car up and put the rear on stands, start the car put it in gear, and push the clutch in all the way, if the tires spin then the clutch is NOT disengaging, (a very little movement is ok but not driving the tires) and it may be a simple matter of just adjusting the master cyl, if that dont work then you definately need to look into the slave, or proper clutch setup you may need a shim.
If everything was working good before you installed the master, then that would say you just need to adjust it. Try turning it in 1/2 turn at a time and keep checking the tires to see if they stop turning. When adjusting make sure that only the adjusting rod is spinning.
That is where I would start, and if it dont work then its time to drop the trans.
If everything was working good before you installed the master, then that would say you just need to adjust it. Try turning it in 1/2 turn at a time and keep checking the tires to see if they stop turning. When adjusting make sure that only the adjusting rod is spinning.
That is where I would start, and if it dont work then its time to drop the trans.
ok u cant adjust to far it wont hit the clutch safety switch that is where i have it know and it just barley hits the switch! I have bleed the **** out of it ! I guess next step it to drop tranny ! none of this makes since! anyway its forsure my luck so not suprized ! I though i might have put clutch disk in backwards what would that cause ? But also thinking that you really can do that cause the spring side would not seat flat on flywheel!
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If this started happening after you installed the master (and nothing else), the master is not bled and/or not adjusted correctly.
If you don't have any kind of speed-bleeder line, do yourself a favor and go buy a Mity-Vac from your local parts store. Once you know it's bled, follow the directions sent from Tick on adjusting the master: start with the rod at the shortest setting and adjust the jamb nut in half-turn increments until the car doesn't move forward in the lowest gear from a stop, then adjust for high-rpm shifts.
Also, you shouldn't be able to adjust the master to the point where the clutch safety switch (the one closest to the firewall that is engaged when the clutch is fully depressed) can't be engaged. The other switch, the clutch positioning switch (furthest from firewall, this is engaged when the clutch is fully engaged), can be adjusted similar to the brake light switch: you push it in or out as necessary.
If you don't have any kind of speed-bleeder line, do yourself a favor and go buy a Mity-Vac from your local parts store. Once you know it's bled, follow the directions sent from Tick on adjusting the master: start with the rod at the shortest setting and adjust the jamb nut in half-turn increments until the car doesn't move forward in the lowest gear from a stop, then adjust for high-rpm shifts.
Also, you shouldn't be able to adjust the master to the point where the clutch safety switch (the one closest to the firewall that is engaged when the clutch is fully depressed) can't be engaged. The other switch, the clutch positioning switch (furthest from firewall, this is engaged when the clutch is fully engaged), can be adjusted similar to the brake light switch: you push it in or out as necessary.
I'm not a fan of metal master cylinders. I had a mcleod and I had hell with high rpm shifting. My long tube headers were definitely heating it up every time. I adjusted and adjusted, and bled and bled. I went back to a stock mc and a stronger clutch and now I'm having some fun
