Difficulty level of installing slave cylinder?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
One hard part was getting the input shaft to line up correctly.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
I can bench 265lb, a t56 weighs nowhere close to that and it is still a pain in the *** to bench press just because of its shape and dimensions. It can be done, but its much easier if you have someone lift the front and someone else to lift the rear. That way you don't have to kill yourself. Good luck.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Well, the slave is installed.
Still sticks at high RPM shifts. The hydrolics are brand new. The clutch has less than 2000 miles on it. I am really frusterated at this point.
Still sticks at high RPM shifts. The hydrolics are brand new. The clutch has less than 2000 miles on it. I am really frusterated at this point.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
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Sorry to hear it still sticks at high rpm. Mine did too after I put in the brand new master and slave. Turns out I didn't bleed it good enough. I bled it again with my brother and now its pretty damn good. Before I bled it a second time it would be rough to get into third and then I'd be locked out of fourth on a WOT run.
found it, guess i just needed to read the stickies... 
Originally Posted by TheLS1Kid
What is the bleeding process?
1. Top off master with fluid
2. Pump a few times and hold pedal down.
3. Crack bleeder open while holding pedal down.
4. Close bleeder when fluid stops squirting out.
5. Release pedal and pump a few times.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 until pedal has full pressure.
It takes a while to get the pedal to build pressure if the system was dry, it took me like 30 minutes to bleed it all the way.
What is the bleeding process?
1. Top off master with fluid
2. Pump a few times and hold pedal down.
3. Crack bleeder open while holding pedal down.
4. Close bleeder when fluid stops squirting out.
5. Release pedal and pump a few times.
6. Repeat steps 1-5 until pedal has full pressure.
It takes a while to get the pedal to build pressure if the system was dry, it took me like 30 minutes to bleed it all the way.
remember to keep topping off the slave every two times you crack the bleeder. If you keep pumping it and crackin the bleeder and don't keep the resavior from going empty its gonna suck in air and you'll have to start all over! 
remember to keep topping off the slave every two times you crack the bleeder
also,, do i leave the li lblack rubber thing out, and the lid off (engine bay canister) though out the entire process?
Last edited by Bad Blue WS6; Apr 24, 2009 at 09:10 AM.
And by that you mean filling the lil canister in the engine bay by the fire wall, right? So really, without a remote type bleeder or hole in the floorboard, you almost need 3 people total,,one in the dr seat to pump, one under the car to crack the bleeder, and another in the engine bay doing the topping off and making sure no brake fluid is getting on the paint ...:
also,, do i leave the li lblack rubber thing out, and the lid off (engine bay canister) though out the entire process?
also,, do i leave the li lblack rubber thing out, and the lid off (engine bay canister) though out the entire process?
After doing that twice I'd come out from under the car, open up the cap from the canister in the engine bay by the fire wall, and see that if I did it once more without filling it, it would be empty and would suck in air so I needed to fill it. I used a funnel to fill it so I'd have less of a chance to spill on paint
. Then I put the cap back on, other wise the fluid will shoot out if you don't put the cap back on, (Its a sealed system). Then I'd get back under the car and start Yellin again. I did all this over and over again. Probably ended up crackin the bleeder like 10 times before I said, "screw it, I'm gonna go try it" and it worked! Last edited by TheBlueKnight; Apr 24, 2009 at 11:29 AM.
