Difficulty level of installing slave cylinder?
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Difficulty level of installing slave cylinder? Hey guys,
I am having hydrolics issues and have done the drill mod and replaced the MC. Still gets stuck once the transmission heats up during high RPM shifts. I am debating on whether or not to swap out the slave this weekend, but can't afford to replace the clutch at this time (hey, times are tough right?).
Anyhow, The most extensive work I have done up to this point was replace the MC and am worried about jumping into something that is over my head.
I read the how-to on install university, and it seems pretty straight forward except for the clutch part. Since I won't messing with the clutch (just replacing the SC), is this something that a newbie can do pretty easily with 2 floor jacks, 4 jackstands, a standard socket set and a little bit of patience.
Finally, I know that I need to drain the transmission fluid but I am not sure where the drain valve is? I know its a newbie question, but throw me a bone. I know the refill hole is near the shifter, and I am assuming that the drain is near the bottom of the transmission.
Also, I have a chassis mounted torque arm. So I shouldn't have to worry about loading it during re-installation right?
Thanks guys.
I am having hydrolics issues and have done the drill mod and replaced the MC. Still gets stuck once the transmission heats up during high RPM shifts. I am debating on whether or not to swap out the slave this weekend, but can't afford to replace the clutch at this time (hey, times are tough right?).
Anyhow, The most extensive work I have done up to this point was replace the MC and am worried about jumping into something that is over my head.
I read the how-to on install university, and it seems pretty straight forward except for the clutch part. Since I won't messing with the clutch (just replacing the SC), is this something that a newbie can do pretty easily with 2 floor jacks, 4 jackstands, a standard socket set and a little bit of patience.
Finally, I know that I need to drain the transmission fluid but I am not sure where the drain valve is? I know its a newbie question, but throw me a bone. I know the refill hole is near the shifter, and I am assuming that the drain is near the bottom of the transmission.
Also, I have a chassis mounted torque arm. So I shouldn't have to worry about loading it during re-installation right?
Thanks guys.
I personally would just replace the clutch if your gonna drop the trans anyway especially because your clutch could be causing your shifting problems too. Dropping the trans and replacing both the clutch and slave is not very difficult. The hardest part is rigging up enough sicket extentions/swivels to get to the upper trans bolts. It can all be done with a floor jack but if you can find a lift it is tons easier and faster.
Drain plug is on the bottom of the trans, cant miss it.
Drain plug is on the bottom of the trans, cant miss it.
Like Brad8266 said, one of the hardest parts is getting the top trans and bellhousing bolts off, you need quite a few extensions to reach it. If you are going to do just the slave just be sure not to overtorque the bolts, the torque is in INCH pounds.
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Also, you say I have to torque the bolts to a specific inch/pounds. So I need some sort of socket that has a guage on it? Where would one find something like this and which one would you recommend. Sorry for the newbie questions.
Do the sell an extension that is long enough to reach it. I have no extensions in my ratchet set, so I will have to buy one.
Also, you say I have to torque the bolts to a specific inch/pounds. So I need some sort of socket that has a guage on it? Where would one find something like this and which one would you recommend. Sorry for the newbie questions.
Also, you say I have to torque the bolts to a specific inch/pounds. So I need some sort of socket that has a guage on it? Where would one find something like this and which one would you recommend. Sorry for the newbie questions.
You need a torque wrench. Some are inch pounds some are foot pounds. You need one with inch pounds. Craftsman makes some nice ones - Sears.
Just follow the install university guide to a T and you will be fine. I am currently in the same situation as you, except I actually need a clutch. I just got my trans dropped today...I been working on my back in my rock driveway with the car up on 4 jack stands.
Like other members said, the top bellhousings bolts can be a bitch, and you will need quite a few extentions to reach them. I just did this today and I think I used (2) 10'' extentions and (2) 3'' extentions.
Like other members said, the top bellhousings bolts can be a bitch, and you will need quite a few extentions to reach them. I just did this today and I think I used (2) 10'' extentions and (2) 3'' extentions.
You can do it man. Ask me how I know, LOL. I just did this. Just like you the most I'd ever done is change the master cylinder. I changed the Slave in a parking lot with a socket set and two jack stands. It took me from 8am to around 6pm with no breaks by myself. I even video taped my progress and show you what problems I ran into. Check it out. It may help you in your journey.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...kes_638399.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...kes_638399.htm
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
You can do it man. Ask me how I know, LOL. I just did this. Just like you the most I'd ever done is change the master cylinder. I changed the Slave in a parking lot with a socket set and two jack stands. It took me from 8am to around 6pm with no breaks by myself. I even video taped my progress and show you what problems I ran into. Check it out. It may help you in your journey.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...kes_638399.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...kes_638399.htm
Thanks for the video. That will be very helpful...
What bolts did you have to use the torque wrench on? 52 inch-lbs, but which ones?
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Verdad Gallardo Everyone is gonna jump on my *** but I didn't use a torque wrench, I just tightened the hell out of them but also made sure I didn't strip anything of coarse. I checked back under after a few thousand miles to see if any needed re tightening and everything was good.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Alright... I started taking it apart.
Am all the way up to the top two bellhousing bolts, and didn't even try them. I will tackle it tomorrow. Is going to be a bitch, I can already tell.
Am all the way up to the top two bellhousing bolts, and didn't even try them. I will tackle it tomorrow. Is going to be a bitch, I can already tell.
You can do it man. Ask me how I know, LOL. I just did this. Just like you the most I'd ever done is change the master cylinder. I changed the Slave in a parking lot with a socket set and two jack stands. It took me from 8am to around 6pm with no breaks by myself. I even video taped my progress and show you what problems I ran into. Check it out. It may help you in your journey.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...kes_638399.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...kes_638399.htm
Last edited by S8ER95Z; Apr 18, 2009 at 05:52 PM.
Another thing I recommend is to put an 11 mm socket on the slave bleeder valve when you tighten the two mounting bolts down. This will ensure that you will be able to get a socket on the bleeder valve in the future to bleed the clutch. You wouldn't believe how many cars I couldn't get a socket on the bleeder valve because it was angled down and touching the transmission. Oh yea and also only use a GM slave.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Ok, the transmissions out now.
The slave looks fine to be honest. It was replaced when I had the transmission rebuilt about a year ago. I think it is probably the clutch.
Does a bad slave always look degraded like the video shows?
The slave looks fine to be honest. It was replaced when I had the transmission rebuilt about a year ago. I think it is probably the clutch.
Does a bad slave always look degraded like the video shows?
Thread Starter
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,251
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Transmissions back in (phew)... All thats left is to put re-hang the exhaust and reinstall the consol.
Side note. One of the most difficult things to get back on was the Torque arm. It was a really tight fit. We had to raise and lower the car several times to get the correct angle. Any tricks to this in the future. The TA is a BMR with the chasis mounted kit they sell. It was hard to slip over the rear end bracket. It kept getting wedged.
Side note. One of the most difficult things to get back on was the Torque arm. It was a really tight fit. We had to raise and lower the car several times to get the correct angle. Any tricks to this in the future. The TA is a BMR with the chasis mounted kit they sell. It was hard to slip over the rear end bracket. It kept getting wedged.
Transmissions back in (phew)... All thats left is to put re-hang the exhaust and reinstall the consol.
Side note. One of the most difficult things to get back on was the Torque arm. It was a really tight fit. We had to raise and lower the car several times to get the correct angle. Any tricks to this in the future. The TA is a BMR with the chasis mounted kit they sell. It was hard to slip over the rear end bracket. It kept getting wedged.
Side note. One of the most difficult things to get back on was the Torque arm. It was a really tight fit. We had to raise and lower the car several times to get the correct angle. Any tricks to this in the future. The TA is a BMR with the chasis mounted kit they sell. It was hard to slip over the rear end bracket. It kept getting wedged.
How hard is it to lift the tranny back up and get the bolts started with only floor jacks? I can bench press maybe 170-180lbs, but I need both hands to do it. Putting the bolts back in would be pretty tough!