gorace

iTrader: (12)

Spec 01 I said I did the rev test on my girls 350z and it didn't move at all mine still moves a little bit when I get past 6500, but I talked to Joey at tick performance and he said that the short stick that i have on my shifter could also be to blame being that it is only 6.5 inches long. Cause now I am able to get the gears in at higher rpm its just not as smooth as it is at lower rpm, I guess its just supose to be notcher at higher rpm being that i'm making close to 540 rwp at the tires, not trying to brag but I guess its never going to be smooth as can be?? I guess I will tell in time when the syncros in my tranny wear out premature. lol This is my first ls1 6 speed car, how do all the other 6 speed fbodys shift at higher rpm are they notcher and harder to shift at higher rpm, you just have to pull harder to get it into the next gear because your spinning the motor that much faster?? Any insite would be greatly appreciated. If this is the way its supose to be, it is what it is.

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

I've got a pro 5.0 and I cut the threads on the stick that came with it to make it shorter. I also have a Tick Master witch I love by the way and a RAM clutch housing and im running a Quarter master Iron metallic clutch disk. I have a shim behind a GM slave cylinder by the way. And mine shifts as smoot as butter at 6200 RPM. Mine is not notchy at all, and the higher the RPM the easier for me to shift. If you really think its your short stick then get the one that came with the pro 5.0 and throw it on see if it makes a difference. If not then throw the stock shifter assy. on it and see what happens. The next thing to keep in mind is that a rebuilt trans no matter who rebuilds it will NEVER shift as smooth as the OEM from GM that came in the car when you bought it. Just from my expeirience. I have driven 3 rebuilt 6 speeds by the way and probably half a dozen OEM F-body 6 speeds.
It does not mean that anything is wrong with the trans or the quality of the rebuild. It just is what is. But if you are rolling forward at 6500 RPM then its obvious its not dissengaging all the way. Since you say your master is adjusted all the way out already I still say you throw a shim behind your slave cylinder. SPEC-01 Still hasnt verified my question yet but I am willing to bet you wont have to adjust the master cylinder that far out any more and it will probably fully dissengage.

gorace

iTrader: (12)

Ls1crazy01 how much of a air gap do you have by the way between the pp and the slave. What oil are you using in the tranny because I am still using the syncromesh, I haven't got around to changing it.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Could you install a shim? Yes...but you have to make sure that the shim will not cause the bearing to ride the diaphragm fingers. This can be checked by referencing Tick's shim thread. As long as it doesn't extend the bearing to the point of riding the fingers and thus causing them to be partially released at all time it shoud be fine. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

gorace

iTrader: (12)

I finally got time to switch over from the amsoil sycromesh oil to the some dextron 3 castro oil it feels a little smoother but I need to try high rpm shifts i'll let you know

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

I can tell ya how to fix it. Put a tilton 5.5 clutch in it. That's what I did after 3 spec 3's. I could turn 10000 rpm now and shift like buttery smooth. It seems all these oem style clutches have weak or ill designed pp. I've been running the same master for 8 years and the only reason I changed the hydraulic release bearing was to fit the tilton clutch. Heat in the fluid IS NOT A ISSUE!!!!! If it was your brakes would never work cause they see waaaaayyyyyy more heat than a clutch does.

gorace

iTrader: (12)

I saw a picture of the clutch assembly and all I have to say is looks expensive, how uch is that thing and do you have a part number

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

Im sorry I didnt pay attention to the gap, but as far as tranny fluid I am running Castrol ATF III NON SYNTHETIC.

gorace

iTrader: (12)

I switched to castrol atf also and it does shift smoother I stil have to check the wot shifts. I noticed that shifting anything below 4K normal driving I just have to tap the clutch to get it to go into the next gear and it it shifts alot smoother. If this doesn't fix it it has to be a defective pp. Cause I still have a **** load of pedal travel to go.

khris99s

iTrader: (1)

I had the same issue with my old SS.

Anything above 7k and it would give out.

I could shift anything below that and it was fine.

All new everything. blah blah never got it figured out.

My personal .02 was the pressure plate was flexing and reverse bleeding the slave.

Much like you do when you change brake pads you compress the cylinder and when you first hit the brakes the brakes are inop due to the lack of fluid in the caliper.

Wish there was a fix.

Cable clutch really would be the only fix. Your not going to get any play there. Well not that cant be adjusted.

I think every LSX car that I know of personally has had the issue. Multiple attempts at fixing and nothing def.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

no more expensive than useing a clutch that don't disengage and knocking out a syncro ring when u go for the gear and u don't know it did'nt disengage.

ozzman98

I had a simular problem with my clutch. an i wrapped my header on the drivers side an the clutch line cause of heat. switched to dot 4 an problem was fixed. except my clutch was messing up round 6k. but all good now

gorace

iTrader: (12)

well sent the clutch back to spec they checked it out and they said it checked out just fine so they are sending it back when I took the tranny out I noticed that the front input shaft bearing was a little worn about a 1/16 of play I don't know if that would cause a clutch disengagment problem but I got it fixed anyways. So we will see and I also called Mcleod and they insure me its not a bellhousing alignment issue the pilot on the input shaft is in perfect condition with no wear at all So I am going to try a new slave and bleeeding it differently to see if I still have air maybe a mity vac. It has to be air in the line or something even though I have a speed bleeder and I have gone through tons of brake fluid already. Any of you guys have any special tricks to bleed the system, I have bench bleed the tick master also.

DJB

iTrader: (15)

I swear HioSSilver has to be right. I think most this can't shift at high rpm stuff is a **** load of pourly designed PP's from the manufactors. Too many people are having these problems and they have all new hydraulics. Check my thinking out on my Spec 2 that went out in 6,000 miles. I had used the shim and it shifted perfect at 6600 rpm but went out prematurely. I think it didn't need the shim thats why it went out cause when I pulled it was glazed and had evidence of high heat(bad hot spots) but lots of meat on the disc. But I think if I didn't use the shim I probably would of had high rpm shifting problems. What kind of makes me mad is all these years the Spec instructions have said if you have a f-body use the shim so thats what I did. Now Tick doesn't even make clutches and they have to come here and show everyone how to determine if they need a shim. Thanks to Tick though. In reality I bet a lot of manufactors not only Spec really owe people for early clutch failures. But thats just life for you.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

DJB, if you feel that you were somhow shorted you are welcome to contact me and I will be happy to talk with you. At the end of the day the issues of high-pedal have been more commonly found recently than they were in the past. I have posted on more than one thread with info on the 1/4" variances I have seen on OE hydraulic bearing/slave assemblies. The parts I examined were OE GM parts...from the local dealership. It is great that Tick provided a measurement set to insure that you get what you need...but I have had a few calls with people that, even after following the perscribed measurement set, have had issues with engagement and release. At any rate, I am happy to talk with you if you like. Let me know. Thanks,

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

PLEASE BUY A SPEED BLEEDER! Its much EASIER to bleed and you will get 100% of the air out. You can get one from Tickshift.com and it will at least rule out the possiblity of air in the system if the problem persists. Good luck man, I know how much of a PITA these issues could be.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

When you guys are serious about fixin' your clutch shot me a pm. We could also do a 7.25" clutch which should be a little more streetable. But hey my gf. drove the SS for months with this setup with no probs. I use the factory master and made a clutch stop and replaced the factory hyd. release bearing with a qtr. master unit. I also have a face plated t56 so I don't use the clutch anymore when I have to shift @ wot.......but I could use it if I wanted too and still do from time to time.

gorace

iTrader: (12)

Well I finally fixed the clutch problem the only problem is that I don't know which of the two things I did fixed it, #1 i'm not sure if i was bleeding it wrong with the speed bleeder I got from tick, I was bleeding it from underneath and got to thinking maybe air was getting trapped in the hose since now the highest spot where I would think the air would go is the slave I think you guys know what i mean, so I routed it to the engine compartment and bleed it that way the pedal feels exactly the same. #2 I had new bearings installed on the tranny the front bearing was shot and had play, now the new one has no play, so i'm thinking maybe when I was depressing the clutch the input shaft was draging on the pilot bearing, all I know is I did the rev test and it stays still as can be and I can shift at high rpm no problem no matter what rpm.

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

Im real glad you got everything worked out! Now go beat the **** out of it and enjoy it!!!