All you clutch Geniuses figure this one out
05-09-2009, 01:21 AM
#1
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All you clutch Geniuses figure this one out All new trans and clutch related components, Spec 3 clutch, findanza aluminum flywheel, new slave with speed bleeder, tick master cylinder. Car is really hard to shift at anything above 6000 rpm, its like it just hits a wall. I measured the air gap and it set between a 1/16 - 1/8. I bench bleed the master,and the speed bleeder with the earls solo end, it was the easiest way to bleed this system I have ever used. Still no luck, before with the ram adjustable I had it would jump foward at about 6000 rpm now it surges foward it bites and lets go bites and lets go?? from 6500 to 7 it does this so its definatly better since I put the tick master on, but I still can't shift up at that rpm, the tick master is maxed out also, do I need a smaller air gap, I have no shim in it so I could ad a 1/16?? Any help would greatly be appreciated
05-09-2009, 05:22 PM
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Anything below 6000 rpm is smooth as can be but above 6000 it is just notch as hell going into the next gear
Last edited by gorace; 05-09-2009 at 05:46 PM.
05-11-2009, 08:42 AM
#6
If the system is bleed properly, and the rod is maxed out then I would say that there must be some problem with the pressure plate itself. We have had guys think their rod was maxed out, but really they only maxed out the side that hooks to the pedal because the rod coming out of the master was spinning instead of screwing out. Where is the clutch pedal in relation to the brake pedal?
05-11-2009, 07:25 PM
#7
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Hey John thanks for checking when I say that i'm maxed out I mean the the travel limiter that stops the pedal from going any further is not touching the pedal any more theres a 1/2 inch gap between the two. I'm sure you know what i'm talking about what else do you think would do this, i'm also using rbf 600 dot 4 motorcycle fluid that what I had lying around, expensive stuff should I use the cheaper stuff. The pedal is stiffer than the ram mc I had I know its because of the bigger bore, which I don't mind as long as it works. Also have any of you guys ever though of a way to hold the slave so the bleeder was in a straight up position and then tried bleeding it you know what i mean i just feel like it could hold air in there since the bleeder comes out at a angle only , or is that good enough, I also bench bleed the master, till there was no more bubbles coming out of it and pumped it at a angle so the air could escape easier. I'm running out of options it shifts smot as hell at anything below 6200 rpm but above that its just really notchy at least I can get the gear in but powershifting it like this would almost gurantee me a missed shift.
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05-11-2009, 07:28 PM
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I have a little over a 1/16 of air gap should I close it up a little make a gasket shim .030 or so. Also John the pedal is about a 1/2 higher that the brake pedal, Joey told me that the pro 5.0 shifter is one of the notchier shifters, I know what he means ,but when I sat down and thought about it at low rpm its so smooth and solid, maybe your right and the pressure plate is messed up , Jermey already told me that I could send it in to them and they would check it out, I just wanted to rule everything out and not waste there time.
05-11-2009, 09:01 PM
#12
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I've heard that to Jermey from spec told me he has seen cars with 1/16 run fine also but with a disengagement issue I would think the farther away it would be from the pressure plate legs the worst it would get.
05-12-2009, 07:56 AM
#14
I'm not sure what it would take to "max out" the slave, but the more clearance you have the more likely that would be to occur. Honestly that clearance wouldn't matter if the tob didn't extend to a certain limit because the spring under the tob keeps it in contact with the pressure plate. You would still be applying pressure to the pp as soon as the pedal begins to move.
05-12-2009, 11:25 AM
#15
I appreciate all the feed back and I know that gorace does too. Keep in mind that the pressure-plate does the same thing no matter when the shift occurs relative to RPM. Realize that nothing is impossible...but due to the fact that gorace can shift consistently at lower RPM it makes me doubt that this is a plate issue. As mentioned I am happy to get the parts back in here for assessment...as this will allow us to find any issue with the parts. Let me know if you decide to send it in and I will issue an RMA. As always I am happy to help. Thanks!
05-12-2009, 05:57 PM
#16
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I tried driving it today and I can shift at anything below 4-5000 rpm smoothly and only need to push the clutch down a little over half ways almost 3/4 down and it still shifts smoothly, it would seem as if it has plenty of disengagment travel, but why would it drag at higher rpm. I tried doing the rev test on my wifes 350z and it doesn't move drag at all at high rpm and shifts smooth as can be at any rpm.
05-15-2009, 02:35 PM
#17
The fact that it doesn't drag when testing it at a stand still with the car in 1st gear and your foot on the gas evidences that the clutch is fully releasing. That being said have you checked the fluid? Is it dark or discolored? These is looking more anf more like an issue associated with heat and hydraulics.
05-15-2009, 03:13 PM
#19
LS1crazy...the OP mentions that engagement occurs mid-pedal which is normal. He also indicates that the clutch is fully releasing when tested by reving the motor with 1st gear selected because the car is not creeping. That being said adding a shim wouldn't really be beneficial...in fact it would likely lead to a clutch that slips as a because of too much height and a bearing that is compressing the diaphragm as a result! I don't think that a shim is the answer.