Monster Stage 3 Problems
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Houston (Clear Lake), TX
Monster Stage 3 Problems I replaced my Spec 3 clutch with a monster. At the time I didn't replace the slave or MC. It was hard to get into 1st and reverse and wouldn't shift at high RPMs. Also I have to push the pedal to floor really hard to get it to disengage. Then I replaced the MC with a stock GM unit and the slave cylinder as well and still have the same problems. Any ideas? Would upgrading to the Tick MC fix my problems? Any way it could be the PP or something else? I don't want to get the Tick MC and then still have the same problems. Thanks for any ideas or advice yall can give.
-Dick
-Dick
when I started putting power to mine, I had the same shifting problems you are describing under hard accel. couldnt shift for nothing the 1-2 shift felt like a brick wall, would not go in. I bought the TICK MC and all my problems are just a bad memory, I have the ram clutch, First thing to do is to be absolutely sure that you have all the air out of the clutch hyd system. once you are sure of that if you still have the problem, then you should really look into the TICK worth every penny. The problem you are describing is TEXT book example of a clutch that is not disengaging completely, the slave is just not pushing in enough to collapse the fingers on the pressure plate and release the disc. THE tick will fix that forever. I am not a sponsor or anything for them Just a super happy customer. But first things first, make sure the system is bled completely , there are a thousand threads on how to do it, I used the mityvac system. From what I have read the monster clutch setup is a super strong nice piece, when my ram fails Monster is what I am going to get, The monster clutch does not use a shim so you can rule that out. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Houston (Clear Lake), TX
I have bled the system a bunch. First when I installed the new MC and then again a whole bunch when I did the slave the other day. When driving around, the pedal feels to have some free play in the beginning of travel and then doesn’t stiffen till almost to the floor. Also between high rpm shifts, it doesn't stick the floor, it comes up and it disengages the clutch some, but not enough to even get the car out of gear. It just stays in gear until the RPMs lower. Then I can finally get it out, and go to the next. Also when bleeding, I did the gravity bleed and had someone pump it, while I open and closed the valve.
you need an adjustable mc(like the tick) so you can adjust the pedal height/how much fluid your pushing through the system. Plus a tick master can push a hell of alot more fluid in one stroke than a stock unit.
- Get 2 big bottles of castrol GT/LMA (great stuff, takes heat really well)
- Get a length of 7/16 fuel hose or similar
- Crack open your bleeder, and put the end of the hose on it
- Put half a bottle of the brake fluid in a clean bottle, maybe like a water bottle
- Put the end of the hose in that bottle so its submerged.
- Pump clutch a lot and have someone fill the reservoir at the same time
- Swap out the fluid in the clear bottle when it gets dirty until you get clean fluid
- When you're satisfied, just turn the hose the direction the bleeder closes, it has enough grip to close the bleeder so you don't suck up air, then take it off and tighten with a wrench.
This helps a TON if you don't feel like buying a mityvac, and prevents you from sucking air up into the slave again by trying to time the open pump shut over and over. Good luck with it, hope you find a solution.
Also, I'm sure that the TICK master is an excellent product, I'll probably get one at some point when I have the extra $$. But with this method I was able to make the stock hydraulics perform as well as any setup I've seen. I can shift my 250+k mile T56 effortlessly at any RPM. By the way, I got my Monster stage 3 today, going in tomorrow. Can't wait
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,909
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From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
You might want to have the title of your thread changed, as I'm pretty sure the problems have nothing to do with the clutch itself, just with the supporting parts.
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Yeah, sounds like a Hydraulic issue, and more than likely air in teh system. However, IF, it comes down to a Monster Clutch problem, you are covered from teh day of install up to 1 year. But, first things first. You say you replaced your Spec with the Monster....Why? Were you having teh same problems that you are having now? If so, than we can rule out clutch. If not, then we can move to the hydraulics.
How are you bleeding the clutch?
The PROPER way is to make sure the reservoir is full, open bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, push the clutch to the floor and hold, close bleeder valve, release clutch, repeat til your satisfied. You very well may have to pull the clutch up with your hand during this process, but that's normal.
You don't bleed the clutch like you do brakes.
The PROPER way is to make sure the reservoir is full, open bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, push the clutch to the floor and hold, close bleeder valve, release clutch, repeat til your satisfied. You very well may have to pull the clutch up with your hand during this process, but that's normal.
You don't bleed the clutch like you do brakes.
Have you given us a call to ask us about this issue?
What it sounds like is one of a couple of things;
- We all know that the stock Fbody master cylinder is garbage, a Tick Master is the answer.
- You may have air in the system, these hydraulic systems are notorious for this.
Give us a call if you have anymore questions, the clutch not engaging/disengaging is a hydraulic issue, not a clutch issue.
How are you bleeding the clutch?
The PROPER way is to make sure the reservoir is full, open bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, push the clutch to the floor and hold, close bleeder valve, release clutch, repeat til your satisfied. You very well may have to pull the clutch up with your hand during this process, but that's normal.
You don't bleed the clutch like you do brakes.
The PROPER way is to make sure the reservoir is full, open bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, push the clutch to the floor and hold, close bleeder valve, release clutch, repeat til your satisfied. You very well may have to pull the clutch up with your hand during this process, but that's normal.
You don't bleed the clutch like you do brakes.
thats the way I do it, and I have done it the other way and tried it and went right back to this
works perfect everytime. Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Houston (Clear Lake), TX
The clutch and hydraulics worked fine with the spec, it was just slipping in 5th and 6th gear so it was time for a new one. I have been bleeding the way yall suggest and I have no problem doing it some more. I just wanted some re-assurance that it was NOT the clutch or PP. I really don’t want to have to pull the trans a third time. I will also look at getting a Tick MC and swap it out next weekend. Also what I don’t understand is that it doesn't feel any different after swapping everything out and bleeding. It’s like it was the day I put it in. Anyways, thanks for all the help guys and I will let yall know my results.
Yes I spoke with you on wed. about this issue. I was told the new slave would help, but that I should look at getting the Tick MC.
Agreed.
Have you given us a call to ask us about this issue?
What it sounds like is one of a couple of things;
Give us a call if you have anymore questions, the clutch not engaging/disengaging is a hydraulic issue, not a clutch issue.
Have you given us a call to ask us about this issue?
What it sounds like is one of a couple of things;
- We all know that the stock Fbody master cylinder is garbage, a Tick Master is the answer.
- You may have air in the system, these hydraulic systems are notorious for this.
Give us a call if you have anymore questions, the clutch not engaging/disengaging is a hydraulic issue, not a clutch issue.
Yes I spoke with you on wed. about this issue. I was told the new slave would help, but that I should look at getting the Tick MC.
The clutch and hydraulics worked fine with the spec, it was just slipping in 5th and 6th gear so it was time for a new one. I have been bleeding the way yall suggest and I have no problem doing it some more. I just wanted some re-assurance that it was NOT the clutch or PP. I really don’t want to have to pull the trans a third time. I will also look at getting a Tick MC and swap it out next weekend. Also what I don’t understand is that it doesn't feel any different after swapping everything out and bleeding. It’s like it was the day I put it in. Anyways, thanks for all the help guys and I will let yall know my results.
Yes I spoke with you on wed. about this issue. I was told the new slave would help, but that I should look at getting the Tick MC.
Yes I spoke with you on wed. about this issue. I was told the new slave would help, but that I should look at getting the Tick MC.
Also, SOMETIMES (forgot to add this earlier, not sure why) the slave/mc with jsut driving it around, can work itself out. I have used my truck as examples here lately on this. I have an '03 Cummins 1 ton dually with teh NV5600 (told you guys I am a manual tranny guy all the way 
) Anyways, after diagnosing my slave/mc, I replaced them both. Followed directions on how to bleed that setup (do everything OFF the truck) got it put on, NADA. It would go into gear, but man it was a PIA to shift.
Anyways, had to do some running around, and did not have time to jack with it, so drove it while it was shifting like crap. Anyways, after about 150 miles of driving stop and go, and shifting, it just worked itself out. Started shifting fine again, smooth as silk, just worked itself out. Been fine ever since. What I am saying is, if you are SURE you bled this thing right, drive it around some and see if it starts getting better.
) Anyways, after diagnosing my slave/mc, I replaced them both. Followed directions on how to bleed that setup (do everything OFF the truck) got it put on, NADA. It would go into gear, but man it was a PIA to shift. Anyways, had to do some running around, and did not have time to jack with it, so drove it while it was shifting like crap. Anyways, after about 150 miles of driving stop and go, and shifting, it just worked itself out. Started shifting fine again, smooth as silk, just worked itself out. Been fine ever since. What I am saying is, if you are SURE you bled this thing right, drive it around some and see if it starts getting better.
