Tick Master Issues
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Tick Master Issues Just bought a Tick Master Cylinder, bench bled it, threw a mity on it, 15 hg of vacuum, but it keeps pulling air. Sound like a defective unit to you guys? I've tested a stock master I have as a spare, and it's sealed so I think this master is just a write off before I even put it in. Any input is welcome since it's the weekend and I can't contact Joey till Monday.
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there's no point in bringing up the vacuum to 20 if its sucking in air from some source. The braided line to the slave isn't leaking air. It's been bench bled, gravity bled, tilted to move the air out of the system into the reservoir but whenever I try to pull vacuum, air is coming in. I looked at the fitting for the hydraulic line and that is solid. I'm thinking its the white part that connects the reservoir line to the master, its somehow not sealed tightly, but I don't want to disassemble it before I get a response from Joey. The line from the white piece to the reservoir is sealed, when I pull vacuum it seems to come from inside the master itself. After 1 hr of vacuuming you'd think all the air was out, but it was pulling bubbles from out of nowhere, you can see them appear out of nowhere from the white part. I'm tempted to take apart the braided line and maybe loctite the fittings to hopefully cross my fingers that's the source of the leak.
Last edited by SladeX; Jul 26, 2009 at 09:09 AM.
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I don't even need to pump the clutch to pull air bubbles, it just keeps pulling.
Its not the master line/slave connection. Disconnected from the slave, it still pulls air.
The hydraulic line from the master to slave checks out. When the line is disconnected from the master and the the line itself is mityvaced, it will hold vacuum all day.
I capped the master at the fitting using the same cap that is off the fuel rail(perfect fit, has o-ring to to seal), then I submerged it and tried to pull vacuum, air bubbles still came in. Suspect its the white plastic part or the front of the lever where air is coming in.
It's been gravity bled 3 times then mityvaced. Each time the mity continuously pulls air.
I've wasted 12 hrs of my weekend on this.
Its not the master line/slave connection. Disconnected from the slave, it still pulls air.
The hydraulic line from the master to slave checks out. When the line is disconnected from the master and the the line itself is mityvaced, it will hold vacuum all day.
I capped the master at the fitting using the same cap that is off the fuel rail(perfect fit, has o-ring to to seal), then I submerged it and tried to pull vacuum, air bubbles still came in. Suspect its the white plastic part or the front of the lever where air is coming in.
It's been gravity bled 3 times then mityvaced. Each time the mity continuously pulls air.
I've wasted 12 hrs of my weekend on this.
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I'd do that but the hydraulic system should be a sealed system. If even a little vacuum is enough to pull air in, then imagine the fluid cooking from the abuse pushing it's way out then later. I can't even get 5hg of vacuum on it for more than a second, that's how easy it is to introduce air into it. Just another user installed it and was able to get all the air out using a mityvac so it begs the question why can't I get even a little bit of vacuum on it? That's what I will talk to Joey about on monday. I daily drive this car too, so I will sit in traffic and I will press the clutch a lot of times and I will eventually expose the fluid to a lot of heat and it will expand and probably seep out at that point. I don't want to be in traffic to find out my clutch just pumps air.
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I've found the source of the air...
while I mentioned it earlier, I had no proof of it, but now I do. The white piece that connects to the master is the problem. I had it out of the car fully filled with fluid. Left alone for the past few hours. It was cleaned up and closed up. When I checked on it, I found a bead of fluid had seeped out from the area where the white piece is on the master. It is held onto it by a brass ring that used a screw to clamp it on and supposedly allow the plastic piece to seal it. It's not sealed there and fluid WILL get out eventually from that point which it has and this is just gravity working on it. I'm wondering if I should epoxy around the area or just tighten it some more or do a combination of both. I don't want to mess with this plastic part until Tick advises me a bit on what I can do.
while I mentioned it earlier, I had no proof of it, but now I do. The white piece that connects to the master is the problem. I had it out of the car fully filled with fluid. Left alone for the past few hours. It was cleaned up and closed up. When I checked on it, I found a bead of fluid had seeped out from the area where the white piece is on the master. It is held onto it by a brass ring that used a screw to clamp it on and supposedly allow the plastic piece to seal it. It's not sealed there and fluid WILL get out eventually from that point which it has and this is just gravity working on it. I'm wondering if I should epoxy around the area or just tighten it some more or do a combination of both. I don't want to mess with this plastic part until Tick advises me a bit on what I can do.
Last edited by SladeX; Jul 26, 2009 at 09:12 PM.
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Found a nick in the plastic piece AND the an fitting was leaking on the master->fitting side rather than the hose->fitting. A little silicon and I WIN. lol
I'll install friday seeing as that I don't feel like testing my luck on the drive to work.
I'll install friday seeing as that I don't feel like testing my luck on the drive to work.
I think I have the same problem with my tick MC. Has anyone else pulled bubbles at 10 in/hg? I REALLY don't want to pull it out again to silicone it. I hope it's not leaking. They should silicone and tighten the plastic on the the MC from the factory, as well as check them for leaks...
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Just to update this thread, turned out when I installed it, it still pulled in massive amounts of bubbles at 10 in/hg and wasn't drivable when doing the gear tests. I contacted tick and sent it back and got a replacement. The replacement still did pull bubbles above 15 in/hg, but below it, nothing came out and was for all intent and purposes sealed. Driving it this time showed a significant difference since it worked fine.
If it really has a leak, you will not be able to hold any vacuum period. It will just bleed down vacuum continuously. My new one held vacuum of 10 in/hg all night so I know the system was sealed.
Also like to note, Jonathan@tick performance was very helpful throughout the diagnosis process and got me a replacement as quickly as possible. So don't hesitate to talk to tick about any issues.
If it really has a leak, you will not be able to hold any vacuum period. It will just bleed down vacuum continuously. My new one held vacuum of 10 in/hg all night so I know the system was sealed.
Also like to note, Jonathan@tick performance was very helpful throughout the diagnosis process and got me a replacement as quickly as possible. So don't hesitate to talk to tick about any issues.
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When pumped, the vacuum will drop slightly for me from 10 in/hg, but its like a drop of 1-2 at most for 30 aggressive pumps, so its not a major leak, if at all since it doesn't go much further than that if I continue pumping. I'm able to reach the top jam nut fine if I remove the kick panel. It's 4 screws (2 phillips + 2 7mm), 2 push pins and a few mins of time at most remove.
To get to that nut; remove all panals under the steering wheel column, then it's easy and right there.