Installed Monster clutch and new problems arose
#81
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is it possible to measure without removing the bell housing? I'm planning on pulling the trans only, throwing the shim in and then reinstalling it. I want to work fast because if it doesn't work then I should have time to pull the trans again and get started on the next idea.
#82
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is it possible to measure without removing the bell housing? I'm planning on pulling the trans only, throwing the shim in and then reinstalling it. I want to work fast because if it doesn't work then I should have time to pull the trans again and get started on the next idea.
#84
FormerVendor
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 2,309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since you state that the engine bumps the rev limiter even when the pedal is released and the gear is selected would make me think that the pressure plate isn't returning for some odd reason. With the spring under the dash removed the only thing that returns the pedal with our cylinder is the pp springs. Unless there was a severe amount of air in the system, the pedal should come up with our cylinder.
Its very strange that you say the clutch seems to still be dissengaged after the pedal is released. That would definately be something going on with the pressure plate and that would also be why the pedal doesn't return.
If you are hitting rev limiter, with pedal released, teh PP is clearly not disengaging. Now, is it the PP's fault or is teh slave/MC sticking and keeping teh PP disengaged?
#85
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fargo ND
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You don't have to remove the bell housing. Heres a thread we started describing how to measure: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
#86
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^The trans has to be removed, but the bell housing stays bolted to the motor. The A measurement is from the fingers of the pressure plate, where the throw out bearing touches, to the part of the bell housing that touches the trans. The B measurement is from the fully compressed contact side of the throw out bearing to the part of the trans that touches the bell housing.
#88
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pull your clutch and check the disk. I'll bet it warped like a dome so it wouldn't release in the first place. Then you installed the Tick m/c to get it to release and now with the added fluid volume/slave travel to get it to release your over extending the diaphragm spring causing the hangup when you mash the clutch to power shift.
Anyway just some food for thought.
Anyway just some food for thought.
#90
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (36)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was talking to Steve and ended up sending mine back to them for inspection, should be received today. He sent me a pre paid shipping label so all i had to do was pack it up and drop it off. Had some troubles with getting the label no thanks to UPS.
#91
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok, it was just delivered. Will the new clutch be ok with the flywheel from the last one? It has over 500 miles (break in miles) on it. I'm assuming I don't have to get it resurfaced. I just don't want to have it fail prematurely and then find out that it was expected that I would have the flywheel resurfaced before installing it.
#93
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Trust me it took 6 weeks and three different friction disk and two pressure plates. On top of that I had to mod the new factory master, making it adjustible to get an extra 1/8in of piston travel for everything to work.
#95
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I installed the new pressure plate and friction disk tonight. Since I wasn't sent a flywheel and was given no instructions for it, I'm assuming that I was supposed to reuse the flywheel without resurfacing it.
The install went smoothly except that one of the bolt holes in the pressure plate wasn't even close to big enough and had to be opened up a bit.
The trans seems to go into reverse without being finicky now, so that's a good sign. Also, the pedal is MUCH harder than it was with the old pressure plate. I'm not sure how hard it's supposed to be since this is my first time with this brand, but comparing the new to the old, it feels like the old was was broken it was so easy by comparison. I'm assuming that's a good sign.
I measured for a shim and, if anything, it seems like the A and B measurements were pretty much the same so I did not install a shim.
Now I have to put 500 break in miles on it before I know if my problem is fixed. I'll let you guys know.
The install went smoothly except that one of the bolt holes in the pressure plate wasn't even close to big enough and had to be opened up a bit.
The trans seems to go into reverse without being finicky now, so that's a good sign. Also, the pedal is MUCH harder than it was with the old pressure plate. I'm not sure how hard it's supposed to be since this is my first time with this brand, but comparing the new to the old, it feels like the old was was broken it was so easy by comparison. I'm assuming that's a good sign.
I measured for a shim and, if anything, it seems like the A and B measurements were pretty much the same so I did not install a shim.
Now I have to put 500 break in miles on it before I know if my problem is fixed. I'll let you guys know.
#98
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes those were all monster pieces. I got a stage 3 to start with a HD pressure plate and ceramic 6 puck disk. Then after the first phone call they shipped out a new disk and a extreme pressure plate. When it arrived I checked the disk and it was warp a little bit still. I installed it anyway, I was getting tired of looking at my car for 4 weeks. Still didn't work. I was going to just send it back, but Steve overnight-ed another disk that showed up flat.
Now after all that I've ended up with a stage 5 package and couldn't be happier with it. A little overkill for my car, but it drives nice and grabs like a pissed off badger. Sometimes the end result is worth the hassle. Well almost...
Now after all that I've ended up with a stage 5 package and couldn't be happier with it. A little overkill for my car, but it drives nice and grabs like a pissed off badger. Sometimes the end result is worth the hassle. Well almost...
#99
FormerVendor
iTrader: (15)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I installed the new pressure plate and friction disk tonight. Since I wasn't sent a flywheel and was given no instructions for it, I'm assuming that I was supposed to reuse the flywheel without resurfacing it.
The install went smoothly except that one of the bolt holes in the pressure plate wasn't even close to big enough and had to be opened up a bit.
The trans seems to go into reverse without being finicky now, so that's a good sign. Also, the pedal is MUCH harder than it was with the old pressure plate. I'm not sure how hard it's supposed to be since this is my first time with this brand, but comparing the new to the old, it feels like the old was was broken it was so easy by comparison. I'm assuming that's a good sign.
I measured for a shim and, if anything, it seems like the A and B measurements were pretty much the same so I did not install a shim.
Now I have to put 500 break in miles on it before I know if my problem is fixed. I'll let you guys know.
The install went smoothly except that one of the bolt holes in the pressure plate wasn't even close to big enough and had to be opened up a bit.
The trans seems to go into reverse without being finicky now, so that's a good sign. Also, the pedal is MUCH harder than it was with the old pressure plate. I'm not sure how hard it's supposed to be since this is my first time with this brand, but comparing the new to the old, it feels like the old was was broken it was so easy by comparison. I'm assuming that's a good sign.
I measured for a shim and, if anything, it seems like the A and B measurements were pretty much the same so I did not install a shim.
Now I have to put 500 break in miles on it before I know if my problem is fixed. I'll let you guys know.
Yes those were all monster pieces. I got a stage 3 to start with a HD pressure plate and ceramic 6 puck disk. Then after the first phone call they shipped out a new disk and a extreme pressure plate. When it arrived I checked the disk and it was warp a little bit still. I installed it anyway, I was getting tired of looking at my car for 4 weeks. Still didn't work. I was going to just send it back, but Steve overnight-ed another disk that showed up flat.
Now after all that I've ended up with a stage 5 package and couldn't be happier with it. A little overkill for my car, but it drives nice and grabs like a pissed off badger. Sometimes the end result is worth the hassle. Well almost...
Now after all that I've ended up with a stage 5 package and couldn't be happier with it. A little overkill for my car, but it drives nice and grabs like a pissed off badger. Sometimes the end result is worth the hassle. Well almost...
If anyone else has any questions just give us a shout, all of the pressure plate defects are finally behind us!