monster clutch disengagement
08-18-2009, 08:27 PM
#1
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monster clutch disengagement ok i just put a monster stage 3.5 in and now my clutch wont disengauge.when i first got it back together the pedal was soft until almost at the floor so i pulled the master and done the drill mod.that didnt help,same exact problem.when the tires are off the gound there still spinning with the pedal to the floor.also you cant hardly put it in first gear or change gears.now i dont know if you have to bleed the system if you just change the clutch or not but ive bleed the clutch everyway i know how and i dont know what the problem is.i havnt tried the mighty vac but i used a vacum bleeder but it kept loseing vacum,i only seen a few very small bubles,and ive used about a quart of dot 3 brake fluid tryin to bleed it through the bleeder.im at the breaking point because this is my dd and ive got about 15 hours in this clutch install and i have no ride
please dont tell me i got to pull the tranny again or i swear ill burn this bitch to the ground.
please dont tell me i got to pull the tranny again or i swear ill burn this bitch to the ground. 
08-19-2009, 09:04 AM
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ok i just put a monster stage 3.5 in and now my clutch wont disengauge.when i first got it back together the pedal was soft until almost at the floor so i pulled the master and done the drill mod.that didnt help,same exact problem.when the tires are off the gound there still spinning with the pedal to the floor.also you cant hardly put it in first gear or change gears.now i dont know if you have to bleed the system if you just change the clutch or not but ive bleed the clutch everyway i know how and i dont know what the problem is.i havnt tried the mighty vac but i used a vacum bleeder but it kept loseing vacum,i only seen a few very small bubles,and ive used about a quart of dot 3 brake fluid tryin to bleed it through the bleeder.im at the breaking point because this is my dd and ive got about 15 hours in this clutch install and i have no rideplease dont tell me i got to pull the tranny again or i swear ill burn this bitch to the ground.
please dont tell me i got to pull the tranny again or i swear ill burn this bitch to the ground.Well, how old is your MC? Did you replace teh slave cylinder? You have a hydraulic issue is your problem....
08-19-2009, 09:26 AM
#3
Disclaimer: This is no attempt to step on toes, as always I am just interested in helping those with issues!
Gen is correct in suggesting that bleeding is necessary and that this is likely hydraulic in nature. But 30th mentions that he has had issues with maintaining vacuum. Is this due to the incorrect line size (or lack of a reducer/fitting). If so, and you aren't able to keep vacuum on the bleeder valve during the process you could be introducing more air to the system.
Most Mighty-Vacs came with a fitting set or line reducers that allow them to work on more than one application (wouldn't it be great if the automotive industry used a standardized hydraulic bleeder size). Make sure that the connection to the bleeder is tight before starting to apply vacuum. If you don't have the adapters you can use thread tape to thicken the threaded valve enough to snuggly fit into the line.
I suggest using between 12-15psi for this process. I also suggest having an extra set of hands (or a friend) watch the reservoir to insure that it doesn't run dry. I always start bleeding from the botton and then when I am confortable with the bleed I will tighten everything back up and attach the bleeder to the reservoir anf bleed the system from the top. I know, some may argue that this is redundant but I have gotten more air out this way on more than one occasion. Give it a try and let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Gen is correct in suggesting that bleeding is necessary and that this is likely hydraulic in nature. But 30th mentions that he has had issues with maintaining vacuum. Is this due to the incorrect line size (or lack of a reducer/fitting). If so, and you aren't able to keep vacuum on the bleeder valve during the process you could be introducing more air to the system.
Most Mighty-Vacs came with a fitting set or line reducers that allow them to work on more than one application (wouldn't it be great if the automotive industry used a standardized hydraulic bleeder size). Make sure that the connection to the bleeder is tight before starting to apply vacuum. If you don't have the adapters you can use thread tape to thicken the threaded valve enough to snuggly fit into the line.
I suggest using between 12-15psi for this process. I also suggest having an extra set of hands (or a friend) watch the reservoir to insure that it doesn't run dry. I always start bleeding from the botton and then when I am confortable with the bleed I will tighten everything back up and attach the bleeder to the reservoir anf bleed the system from the top. I know, some may argue that this is redundant but I have gotten more air out this way on more than one occasion. Give it a try and let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
08-19-2009, 10:26 AM
#4
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When you have an issue it's best to contact us directly. It does sound like a hydrolic issue, as mentioned before make sure the system is free of air, and it might be time to upgrade your MC. Give us a call at the shop and we can work on resolving your issue.
Matt
817-750-2000
Matt
817-750-2000
08-19-2009, 09:25 PM
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well i bought a mighty vac today and i put 12lbs of vacum on the system and pumped it up and one thing i noticed is that with vacum on the line i could only pump it a few times and then i would only have about half a pedal.when i released the vacum i could pump it a few times and i would have a full pedal again.is this normal?i didnt lose vacum on the lines yesterday it was the shity pump i was using wasnt holding the vacum.another thing is that i can feel the rpms in the clutch pedal,is that normal?Matt i talked to you today and you suggested the tick mc im thinking that may be my only option because the pedal feels normal and is at the top, but im really tight on cash so i want to try everthing first.thanks joe
btw if someone knows of a (cable kit) where you could convert hydrolic **** to manual i would like to take a look at it.
btw if someone knows of a (cable kit) where you could convert hydrolic **** to manual i would like to take a look at it.
Last edited by 30th6; 08-19-2009 at 09:44 PM.
08-20-2009, 08:12 AM
#7
With Vacuum applied to the system it could easily have a lesser point at which pressure builds relative to pedal travel because vacuum would pull the actuating components of the system down (or out as it may be). Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
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08-20-2009, 10:13 AM
#8
The best thing to do is bleed the system.Not hard but most people do it wrong.
Open bleeder,push clutch peddle down,close bleeder.The trick is to close the bleeder right before the peddle hit's the floor.It ussually takes us 2-3 times of doing this to get it perfect.I'm not a fan of the mighty vac.
Open bleeder,push clutch peddle down,close bleeder.The trick is to close the bleeder right before the peddle hit's the floor.It ussually takes us 2-3 times of doing this to get it perfect.I'm not a fan of the mighty vac.
08-20-2009, 01:46 PM
#9
My brother is installing his new Tick master cylinder at this very moment because he just installed a Monster Stage 3 with pretty much the same problem you're having (won't go into first unless you really put everything into it, then the tires immediately start spinning even with the clutch pedal fully "disengaged"). We both thought it needed a shim but Monster swears it doesn't as the clutch has the same dimensions as a stock clutch, so he bought the recommended Tick master. Within an hour or two we should know if it solves the problem, so you may want to check out his results in his thread here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ems-arose.html.
What I'm curious about is if this clutch is built to stock dimensions and the stock clutch doesn't need a shim OR an adjustable master that pushes more fluid, why would this clutch need an adjustable pedal to function properly? I am assuming it has something to do with the amount of force required to disengage this clutch over a stock clutch? And if that's true, then I'm assuming pedal feel once it's working properly will be quite a bit heavier than stock if the force required is that much different over a stock clutch.
What I'm curious about is if this clutch is built to stock dimensions and the stock clutch doesn't need a shim OR an adjustable master that pushes more fluid, why would this clutch need an adjustable pedal to function properly? I am assuming it has something to do with the amount of force required to disengage this clutch over a stock clutch? And if that's true, then I'm assuming pedal feel once it's working properly will be quite a bit heavier than stock if the force required is that much different over a stock clutch.
08-21-2009, 08:11 AM
#11
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Well, what you have to realize is this:
MOST MC's are older when your clutch is being replaced. For example...the MC in your car that you just put a clutch in..how old is it? OK, now you get into the "known garbage" that the stock setup is. NOW, we say that you have added a PP that requires more fluid/pressure to disengage teh clutch.
So, now your old, garbage MC just is not capable of it. Now, do you need a Adjustable MC for that? No. You can buy a new one and be done with it as well, but the problem is, you are replacing on old piece of garbage, with a NEW piece of garbage
The reason most recommend an adjustable MC is because most aftermarket MC use a high quality clutch MC, that pushes more fluid to help disengage a "heavier duty" clutch, AND it gives you a better feel for it, as the pedal is now adjustable.
So, while it is NOT necessary to replace with an Adj MC, it is just recommended at this point though. Hope that helps
MOST MC's are older when your clutch is being replaced. For example...the MC in your car that you just put a clutch in..how old is it? OK, now you get into the "known garbage" that the stock setup is. NOW, we say that you have added a PP that requires more fluid/pressure to disengage teh clutch.
So, now your old, garbage MC just is not capable of it. Now, do you need a Adjustable MC for that? No. You can buy a new one and be done with it as well, but the problem is, you are replacing on old piece of garbage, with a NEW piece of garbage
The reason most recommend an adjustable MC is because most aftermarket MC use a high quality clutch MC, that pushes more fluid to help disengage a "heavier duty" clutch, AND it gives you a better feel for it, as the pedal is now adjustable.
So, while it is NOT necessary to replace with an Adj MC, it is just recommended at this point though. Hope that helps
08-26-2009, 01:16 PM
#17
The problem is that the original master cylinders are inferior pieces. We've got over 2000 of these units out without disengagement issues. Even though the problem comes up on occasion, it's more often the hydraulics. We bench test all of our pressure plates before they leave for the customer. This takes all the guess work out of the equation and can allow us to better pinpoint issues over the phone.
We recommend the Tick highly because it is a great piece. If the stock master was competent Joey (and many others) would not have bothered making upgraded pieces.
I apologize for the issues you've had, I'm glad that our diagnoses was correct and that your Tick master cylinder is working for you.
We recommend the Tick highly because it is a great piece. If the stock master was competent Joey (and many others) would not have bothered making upgraded pieces.
I apologize for the issues you've had, I'm glad that our diagnoses was correct and that your Tick master cylinder is working for you.
