pooker

iTrader: (5)

I cannot figure out why it failed. I am not one of those persons that does burnouts in my car as it is a daily driver, and all the hdyrolics checked out fine.

I will post pictures later, but I purchased a spec stage 3 clutch and billet flywheel from a member on ls1tech who told me it had 3k miles. I got it and it definately had either been ridden very hard, or had way more, but the clutch and flywheel still had life left in them.

I might of gotten three thousand more miles before it started slipping. When I removed it I noticed that the back of the flywheel had scorch marks where you could see each of the pucks sat.

Their was uneven wearing on the pressure plate and flywheel, but the disk surprisingly seemed okay. I can post pictures, but I am just wondering what made this happen. If it was installation error I would like to take the precautions to not let this happen again.

I didn't see anything visually wrong with the setup when I removed it. No loose bolts, and the slave was not distended causing premature wear. The car has only been to the track once and only made two passes, and it is just a bolt on car.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Well, there are a few things, namely the original mileage of teh clutch. Did this person have a good feedback (was he from here?) WHY was he selling? Those are a few things I would like to know.

Now, installation...did you clean flywheel and PP surface with brake cleaner before you installed?

Also, HOW do you know it is slipping? What is it doing? (I keep asking this, as it seems that, some have a hard time pointing out what clutch slippage really is) I am NOT saying you don't know, I just would like clraification on what it is doing to determine if it is slipping

Johawk

iTrader: (2)

This will not be helpful to your situation but a friend of mine bought a spec stage 3+ brand new and it only lasted about 6k and a hand full of 1/4 mile passes before he had similar problems. His car was also bolt ons only. Headers, exhaust, lid/filter, and 4.10s on a 15k mile 02 WS6 (350 whp). He is now going with a McLeod Twin Disc due to this happening just after the purchase of H/C package... never installed. Best of luck to you tho. Sounds like a shitty situation. Im happy my T56 came with an Extrailia

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

i always thought you really could'nt re-install a clutch without resetting the springs and such.... am i way off on that?

pooker

iTrader: (5)

I cleaned it all and used all new hardware. My car is an original a4 and the guy had good trader feedback. I had six different people look at the clutch before installing and all said that their were some hard spots in the flywheel, but that it would be okay.

How I knew the clutch was slipping was it got gradually worse with rpm's rising. In the end if I was in 6th and gave it gas the rpms would rise and it would stay the same mph.

Strange thing is my friend said he has driven spec clutches to the rivets before it started slipping. My disk was definately getting close, but not to the point it should of been slipping. They told me the disk just got really, really hot. I was told you could sit on my flywheel with a torch and it would take awhile to see those burn marks like mine had. I also had an uneven pressure plate surface.

I just do not want to spend alot of money on a textrilla, or monster, or something and the samething happened. I have just never had this happen and ls1 clutches are expensive.

I will admit this is my first ls1 car and everything I do on it is a new experience, but I had my friend who works on these cars for a living tell me it was slipping. It got to where I couldn't even give it gas in first without slippage.
So spec's only last that long? I mean, I guess I got its life out of it then if they only last 6k. I am really looking at what clutch to buy next.

I have always been told that you just cannot resurface anything if you reuse an already used clutch. I might be off though, but I have reused clutches in the past.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

my spec 3 is over 30000 miles old, and although it does need to be replaced (i have developed a vibration) it has given me plenty of good stuff to this point.

Cliff

iTrader: (19)

I have had 2 spec 3 clutches several years ago and they both gave out within 2 thousand miles. Never liked them since then.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

I've got a spec 3 in my 3900lb car with ~500rwhp n/a + a 200 shot. I dump the clutch at 6500rpm on et streets and the clutch holds just fine. It takes a good tough clutch to do that, so nobody can convince me that spec sucks. However, the spec 3 is a really grabby on/off style clutch that CANNOT be slipped if you want it to last very long at all. You really have to change the way you drive the car to make a clutch like this last, driving it like a stock clutch will kill it quickly....get it hot once and there's no saving it. I think many of the spec failures around here happen because they get driven like a stocker. Just my $.02

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Yeah, most people have good luck with teh Spec's as you have. Always gonna have few that are not happy with whatever you give them, ya know?


well, it sounds like your diagnosis is correct and spot on (from the above post, 6th gear, floor it, RPM's climb, but MPH do not)

No, teh clutch should last longer than that, of course depending on A LOT of things...driver, oil contamination, racing, etc...

yes, you can resurface a flywheel and even rebuild a clutch. I am not familiar with the process of rebuilding a clutch, but I know you can.

Also, what I ccan tell you is that Spec-01 (member and sponsor here) is a great guy that is a Spec Tech, and will be along to help out shortly. Do not give up on your Spec, as he will problay get you squared away. You can send him a PM as well (I have already notified him of this thread though)

pooker

iTrader: (5)

Here are some pics

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Wow that sucker got HOT.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Pooker, I apologize for the delayed response. This is the first time I have seen this post. I was out of the office when it was originally posted (our second son was born on the 24th). At any rate, let me know what the thickness of the disc is. You can check this with a caliper/micrometer. Also, do you know when the unit was originally purchased?

I can certainly appreciate your frustration, and I am sorry that you are displeased. Of course, the unit was bought used and there is really no way to know what its life was like before you purchased it. As mentioned a Stage 3 will wear faster if slipped or ridden in an effort to "induce" smoothness. Because it is relatively agressive people have a tendency to attempt to force smoothness by being very slow to release the pedal or by slipping the clutch excessively. You may be better off with a more street friendly unit and I would be happy to assist you with more info if you'd like to give me a call. I can be reached at the number in my signature and I'm in the office from 8am until 5pm CST. Thanks,

02SOMWS6

iTrader: (6)

Here are some shots of my car pulling the wheels (1.45 60ft)
That was done with a 5 year old spec 3I clutch
a couple of launch's later I blew the gears apart in my spooled 12 bolt.