Bull

iTrader: (2)

This is my first swap, and I am essentially functionally retarded when it comes to visualizing how parts go together.

I am at the stage where I need to drill holes for the u-bolt and also drill the larger 1 1/2 or so hole for the master in the firewall.

First, how freaking precise must the clutch bracket be lined up in the embossed template in the rubber mat on the firewall? Is this good enough?



Also, when I drill the hole for the master, does it matter if the hole saw bit is angled up or down? I held the bit in place inside the perimeter of the bracket to see exactly where to drill. Holding it here, it was angled upwards a bit, like this:



That ok?

Finally, someone pointed out that my slave is missing a little white plastic mushroom shaped cap on the tip, that acts as some kind of a spacer. Does this matter?

In the pic below, you can see a new slave with the plastic tip held on by some white straps that break upon first use. I do not have this cap:



Thanks for any help.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Cut the plastic out in the firewall liner before you drill. Mount the pedal assembly and tighten all bolts, then drill the u-bolt and master holes. Don't need to hold the hole saw at an angle.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Here is what I did..there are pics in this thread..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...onversion.html

Bull

iTrader: (2)

I have been using the step by step guide by Alex Afrashteh, that is linked from this very forum: http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

Those instructions say to leave the plastic in place, so that is how I bolted up the pedals this morning.

I am not intentionally holding the hole saw bit at an angle. But, I don't believe the firewall is flat in that spot. I figured that if I put it to the firewall right above the bracket, the hole would be in the correct spot, and the bit naturally assume an angle upwards. Is this going to be an issue?

the merv, I'm going to read through your thread tonight...I need all the help I can get.

Thanks for the help so far, guys...I am sure I will have more questions.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

I just took a quick look at that write-up, the merv. Will read in full later.

The wiring nearly gave me an aneurysm. I definitely don't want to tear into my harness like that. The instructions I have just mention splicing some pigtails for the trans and whatnot. I'm actually going to buy a T56 harness from tpi-parts on eBay. I hope there is no need to rip the harness apart...I'll never get it back together properly.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Ya, I did it the professional way..lol

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Wish I could do that. I'm like a monkey with a screwdriver over here, though. I figured I was doing good just ordering the proper harness and not splicing pigtails...at least it will be neater.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Whatever works for you man..

Let me know if you need help with anythin.. PM me if need be.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

That's hugely appreciated. Seriously.

For now, what I am gathering here is that I don't have to worry much about drilling the hole for the master, right? I just can't visualize it. I know the master enters the firewall at an extreme angle, pointing up towards the clutch pedal pin. A 1 1/2 or so hole allows it to be positioned how it needs to go?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Yea, kinda. An ovaled hole works great, you will see in my pics. Hold it in your hand to where the part of the Master that has the Bolt Holes is straight up and down.. that is how it will sit, flush against the Fire Wall with the Master itself at like a 55* angle..something like that, I saw it one time.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Reading your conversion thread, I do not see mention made of what you used to cut the hole...do you remember?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

1 1/2" Hole saw, used a Dremel to make it beautiful.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Excellent. Thank you!

BALLSS

you ABSOLUTELY need the plastic cup.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man. I guess that sucks ***** for me, because it means I have to buy a new set of hydraulics that will have the cap present. Too bad the seller I got this from did not include the cap in the bag of hardware. Wasted my money.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I had some time today to make a little bit of progress. Tough to do when there is a newborn in the house!

Anyway, I cut/drilled the holes for the clutch master cylinder and mounted it in the car with the pedals. The clutch rod lines up with the stud on the clutch pedal, and the brake and accelerator cables line up with their respective pedals, too. This makes me feel that my hole is in the right spot and my pedals are bolted up correctly.

However, I have some issues/questions:

The mounting plate for the clutch master does NOT sit flush on the firewall. This is because it is hung up on the back side of the stud that used to be used to mount the automatic pedals. In the pics of swaps I have seen, no one removes that stud and no one has mentioned it causing the master to not sit flush, but that is what I am experiencing. Because everything lines up and I feel like my hole is in the right spot, it has me confused. Anyone run into this, or have any thoughts?

In the pic below, you can see how my clutch linkage lines up with the pedal. The stud in question is visible at the bottom of the pic, below the bracket on the 6 speed pedals.



Here is a view from under the car, of the master cylinder's bracket hitting the back of that stud:



Also, are you supposed to connect the clutch rod to the pedal before mounting the pedals, or after? I have the pedals mounted, and although the rod lines up, I do not have enough side-to-side play to get it onto the stud.

Lastly, the rubber boot on the cabin-side of the master cylinder has a tear in it. Is this just a dust boot? If so, I am going to put RTV sealant on the tear, but I'm not sure if it needs to be pressure tight or anything.



Thanks guys.

Norbit2

How do you go about removing the button (engine bay) side of the stud without hacking up the firewall?

I am referring to post #16, the middle picture.