Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Cant Power shift??

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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #1  
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Default Cant Power shift??

Ok, I have been power shifting for years, so this is killing me

Installed h/c/i and a new Monster 3.5, light flywheel, slave cylinder and tick master. Put the 500 miles on it, took it to the track around 700 miles.

I can shift fast and hard without problems

Car will not power shift into 2nd or 3rd never tried 4th

Now I never really power shifted this trans since I bought the car 5 months ago and it was all stock and didnt see the point.

So do I have a clutch and or clutch master issue or is it a trans issue?

Played with the Tick adjustment, still nothing. Any ideas?
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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What is it exactly doing, not letting you go into gear or is the pressure plate not releasing when you let off the clutch pedal.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Wont go into gear. Binds up going into 2nd. Wants to grind and not engage in 3rd. Never tried 4th

Also when coming to a stop at times and down shifting into 1st can feel a few teeth clash, never did that before.

Last night on a 6th to 4th down shift had a small grind when going into gear.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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I am not too sure but sounds like the clutch is not completely disengaging when your trying to shift, i am no expert tho. How far you got the pedal off the floor (Master adjusted). I got the exact same setup on the clutch and slave and master as you do, i mean exact. I have had trouble with mine not shifting into third at high rpm only when using the clutch tho. Mine is a slave issues. I adjusted my master almost all the way down to the floor to fix it. Its the travel of the slave on mine its extending my slave too far. The only issue i have is with the way it is now is that when shifting i sometimes dont push the pedal all the way to the floor and it will grind going into second. I hope this helps you out man.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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Yea, I was wondering that too. I was actually going to adjust the master again and start over. Thanks for the help
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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As said above, re-adjust pedal, and possibly rebleed your setup...and then check back with us...
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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tried the 6000 rpm deal, had to adjust some, at this point the pedal is at stock height. Would have to adjust the clutch switch to move out any more.

Will try the power bleed when I get back from vacation.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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Well, did the power bleed, readjusted the clutch, still nothing, at this point the clutch pedal is higher then it was stock.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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Could be wrong but it sounds like you havent done the drill mod.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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have a tick master, no drill mod needed.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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damn this sounds familiar...

very similar issues only a bit worse as far as shifting goes.

Tex. Clutch with a Tick Adj. Master.

Same thing, sometimes its a bit of a fight to get it into gear, I have to rev match my downshifts and high rpm shifts are slow and laggy... almost like I hit a wall for an instant before it lets me get it into gear. Almost feels like the clutch won't fully disengage.

I too have adj. my master fully to the point that I no longer have any adjustment left. Still not resolved, its better now but not perfect. I'm going to try a re-bleed but I don't think this will solve it either. What would adjusting the pedal all the way down do?
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 08:43 PM
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pedal adjusted down will make it worse. Wont move as much fluid.
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobra R
pedal adjusted down will make it worse. Wont move as much fluid.
thats the conclusion I came to aswell, I'm just out of ideas. The only other thought I had is that is there a chance that we need to shim our slaves? If the clutch is always engaged slightly and never fully disengaging doesn't this mean our slave cylinders are not reaching far enough or are they reaching too far?
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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I will make some calls tomorrow and see what everyone has to say.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 02:06 AM
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hmmmm good info in hear. I will be watching this one.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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PM coming...
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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curious on the turnout of this one also...
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:09 PM
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why i only like OEM masters. I have seen way to many aftermarket master do this.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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OEM one was on there the first 500 miles. Pedal grabbed really low, would not quick shift at low rpm.
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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Do the rev test and see if the car rolls foward at all. Rev it to atleast 6,000 plus rpms with the tranny in first gear and the pedal pressed completely to the floor.

If it moves your shifting problem is due to a dragging clutch. This could mean you have a problem with the bleed on the system, the slave, the clutch/pp itself, or possibly even our master. If you have it adjusted to a level higher than the stock pedal, you are moving a ton more fluid than the stock master is capable of.

You could disconnect the quick release connection at the masters line, and BY HAND try to push the pedal down. It should be rock solid. That will elimiate the bleed and problems with our master. Just don't push it too hard.

I still preach that everyone should measure for a shim under thier slave regardless of clutch type. I'm curious if the slaves travel is limiting the amount of release you could achieve because the gap is too wide...effectively reducing the amount of travel the tob/slave has. This is all just theory, as I have never really seen this happen...I'm not sure how the slave would react if our master was adjusted out so far that it was extending the slave to its max.

I'm sure you probably didn't measure, but I'd be curious to hear how wide the gap is now.
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