KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

It seems like everytime I put a new slave cylinder in the car to fix the situation with the clutch I get one day at the track before it goes back to not wanting to shift after the clutch gets a little warm.
It shifts great when I first get in the car, but after a short drive now the clutch just won't engage (when pedal is pushed) and it seems to be temp related. When everything warms up the clutch gets "sticky" and feels like it doesn't want to seperate itself from the flywheel.
Too weak of clutch? Slaves just go bad every 100 miles? What could it be?

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Is it possible the hydraulic line is expanding? I know its braided but that would cause a soft pedal and no disengagement. Unless the master cyl is weak internally.

Arcolog2

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure you flushed the fluid and absolutely got all of the air out? Might want to get a speed bleeder from Tick Performance and just run a big bottle of new fluid through it!

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

Everytime I change the slave I first bench bleed it with an old master and then bleed it again in the car. I am 100% sure the air is out. I also flush the fluid pretty much everytime I drive it.

1sick'98WS6

iTrader: (19)

mighty vac should help you get this taken care of

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

?????? care to explain?


BTW, KCFormula, have you done anything to the master cylinder line to shield it from any exhaust heat?

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

You shouldn't have to bench bleed anything, especially if you're using a Mity-Vac. Sounds like you have other hydraulic issues; what master do you have?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

KC, I think most of us on this site have seen or heard of folks with ridiculous issues that are related to hydraulics. In truth this is related to the less than stellar OE components used by GM in the LS equipped cars. Having read your initial post a few things come to mind. Thus far you have repeatedly replaced the slave cylinder but your issue continues to return. This would lead me to examine a few things in hopes of finding the primary cause of this issue. The first is the routing of the hydraulic line. Does it pass behind the heat sheild as it nears the header? Have you wrapped it in a heat resistent covering? What about the hydraulic fluid you are using...does it have a higher boiling-point? Or the Master cylinder...Have you replaced it? If not, it could be passing air internally which will allow it to burp air into the system causing symptoms like your are seeing. Let me know more about what you have done and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for your post. First off I run a McLeod Adj. Master that HAS been rebuilt. (Helped a little with engagement but not a lot) I have tried to wrap the line in aluminum foil but I didn't notice a difference so I never tried anything else. I also have another McLeod Master off a friend's car laying around somewhere I may give a try. I use just regular DOT3. I would find it very difficult to believe the fluid getting too hot as this problem begins early on in the drive, long before I could see the fluid getting too hot.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I am a firm believer in the use of High BP fluids. I personally use Motul RBF 600 which has a significantly higher temp rating that the OE GM fluid. I can understand the thought that this occurs too soon in the usage cycle to think it is heat related but if the lines are routed outside the heat shield and in close proximity to the header (this is more common when use long-tubes) then the fluid could boil. Understand of course that this is just a possibility.

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

I agree anything is possible at this point as I have not done a lot of testing. Mostly due to time constraints so I will have to try that Motul fluid next.

Thanks

zacht

iTrader: (18)

when you get this fixed let us all know what it was!

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

Two weeks from now will be the first chance I will have to work on it. But I will try to remember this thread and report back.
BTW I did remember that I ended up running my line behind one of the factory heat shields which is where it is now and doesn't seem to help.