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Clutch Dragging?

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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 09:52 AM
  #21  
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Hmm, it looks like mine. I have about 3k on this one.

Thinking out loud here, does anyone think it could be a warped or swollen clutch disc or defective pressure plate that is doing this? When I first installed the clutch the pedal was as soft as a stock clutch, and I noticed not long before this problem started that the pedal was stiffer. I guess it could be all in my mind though.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 10:57 AM
  #22  
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The SAC Springs appear to be even but that doesn't mean that the plate isn't miss-adjusted. Do you still have the transmission off? If so, pull the clutch and flywheel and then bolt them together and use a press to actuate them. The clutch should actuate within about 3/8" of diaphragm compression. If this doesn happen then the plate isn;t releasing. You can reset the SAC-springs by using a flat-head screw-driver to compress the springs (by way of the tab that restricts their adjustment) to their default position. Then when the clutch is actuated again the plate should readjust. I know this sounds like a lot of work...but it is the only way to really check the parts for proper function. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 12:10 PM
  #23  
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UCA I understand where you are coming from but a warped plate or disc or a swlling disc would affect every gear change which makes this pretty unlikely since the primary issue is qith 1st alone.
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Old Nov 17, 2009 | 04:06 PM
  #24  
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I think you are right that it is the pressure plate. I just saw this post from Slowhawk in Mike Bell's thread. I never mentioned it because I didn't think it made a difference but my clutch does engage mid-high on the pedal.

Originally Posted by Slowhawk
It's not the hydraulics.If the clutch grabs at the top of the pedal and it's hard to get into gear the problem is the clutch assembly.The pressure plate is not fully disengaging the disk,probably a bad pressure plate or the disk is too thick.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 09:15 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by UCABlackChevy
I think you are right that it is the pressure plate. I just saw this post from Slowhawk in Mike Bell's thread. I never mentioned it because I didn't think it made a difference but my clutch does engage mid-high on the pedal.
I mean... that pressure plate looks fine to me? I mean how would one know the diff? I'm sick of shelling out money for stuff that doesn't fix it... woohoo!
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 10:04 AM
  #26  
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If you decide to get a non-SAC unit then let me know and I will be happy to assist you. Thanks!
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Bell
I'm sick of shelling out money for stuff that doesn't fix it... woohoo!
Right there with ya brother, I've spent $620 (not counting all the brake fluid) since the beginning of this thread with no resolution to the problem.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SPEC-01
The SAC Springs appear to be even but that doesn't mean that the plate isn't miss-adjusted. Do you still have the transmission off? If so, pull the clutch and flywheel and then bolt them together and use a press to actuate them. The clutch should actuate within about 3/8" of diaphragm compression. If this doesn happen then the plate isn;t releasing. You can reset the SAC-springs by using a flat-head screw-driver to compress the springs (by way of the tab that restricts their adjustment) to their default position. Then when the clutch is actuated again the plate should readjust. I know this sounds like a lot of work...but it is the only way to really check the parts for proper function. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
After I re-adjust the springs, I will be able to test it out on the press to see if it actuates within 3/8" of diaphragm compression, right? If it still doesn't, I happen to be real good friends with the parts manager at my local dealership and he told me he can get me a brand new LS7 PP & clutch disc for $202 + tax. If I got a new one would I have to resurface the flywheel?
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SPEC-01
If you decide to get a non-SAC unit then let me know and I will be happy to assist you. Thanks!
I plan on getting an C6 Z06 in the next year or so, and when that comes to fruition I'll definitely get in touch with you regarding a twin disc for that car, got big plans for it.

I really need the light pedal of the LS7 clutch in this car for daily driving in heavy city traffic, anyway.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 12:04 PM
  #30  
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You can test the unit on a press...but the kit needs to be rest before installing it again because it needs to adjust in the car.

Our new 12" Super-Single kits have very light effort when compared to the older 11" units. These kits provide higher capacity to boot! There is no real down side. So pedal effort doesn't have to be increased dramatically when moving away from the SAC unit.

Either way let me know if you have any further questions or if you need to place an order. Thanks!
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #31  
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Hey man I got mine fixed

Take it all apart
clean it up
assemble on ground (torque to spec not over or under)
bench press check for disengagement. (doesn't take much)
(if it disengages properly on a bench press then the clutch is fine)
If clutch is fine take it apart and put it back in the car.

Next,
check your slave
(I know you have replaced it and its most likely not it)
Hook your slave up to the line
push in on the slave all the way
while pushing in all the way on the slave have someone push the clutch in slowly

If you have travel in the peddle before the slave starts to push out yo have air in lines.

If that doesn't fix it let me know and I will tell you some other steps that I tried w/ no success
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #32  
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you get it fixed yet??
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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #33  
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Took the trans off and tried the slave thing and I felt pressure (strong pressure) the instant my bro pushed the pedal. So I took the PP off to do the spring reset deal. I pressed the fingers down a loooong way and the tension never came off the springs so that I could adjust them. I ordered a new PP from the dealership today. I'll be spending this Thanksgiving underneath my car.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 09:11 PM
  #34  
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Thats ugly man. Any way to return the defective pressure plate??
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 12:22 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by rabiddog
Thats ugly man. Any way to return the defective pressure plate??
I bought the LS7 clutch kit from SDPC in Feb or March so according to their site I'm just SOL.

Either way, the SDPC kit came to me with an open bag and was missing some pressure plate bolts, so I had to reuse the old bolts. Really cheesy to send your customers already opened bags and missing some parts, I'd rather not bother them anymore. I got this new one from the local dealership and they will stand behind it if something goes wrong with it.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:15 AM
  #36  
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I put the clutch in on Friday and immediately stripped out the slave cylinder bolt. So Saturday, I drill out the hole and tap it for a larger screw that worked fine. Got everything put together and stuck a socket up there to release pressure from slave to install the pos quick disconnect and now there is a 7/16 socket in my bellhousing. FML.
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 08:50 AM
  #37  
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Wow dude. Ever think about just having it towed to a shop?
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 09:04 AM
  #38  
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Here in podunk Arkansas the only two places near me that had even heard of an internal slave cylinder were the dealership and one other place that is so busy they can't see my car for at least two weeks.

I guess I'm dropping the starter, can I just remove the two bolts holding the starter and let it hang or are my headers going to make this a pain to get the starter out?
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 12:26 PM
  #39  
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This is complete horseshit... I'm sorry you're going through this kind of **** man. Unfortunately I've been going through this same bullshit for the past 6 months! Still no one can help me including Textralia which won't answer my phone calls.

Same deal with me, it won't go into gear without a fight, trying to make a fast shift is impossible... you have to rev match all your shifts if you want to get it go in within 5 seconds. If anyone wants to bother saying I need to bleed my clutch they can shove their own foot up their ***, I've done that, way more then necessary. If it was air and needed a bleed it would be inconsistantly shitty... but its not, its always predictably the same annoying traits.

Bled multiple times, Tick Adj. MC, Textralia Clutch... I've asked multiple sources if its possible it just needs a shim and how big and everyone says thats out of the question...

Why am I getting no help from Textralia?!? I bought from those guys because everyone said they had great customer service and stand behind their product... well where the hell is this service everyone talked about?


Anyway, I'm really curious to see how this turns out because its very similar to my situation...
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Old Nov 30, 2009 | 04:24 PM
  #40  
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I hear ya, if the new clutch assembly doesn't fix it I'm going to drain the fluids, undo the battery and pull the insurance and call it a day. This is beginning to wear on more than just my pocketbook now, it's prematurely turning me into an old man.
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