araber89

iTrader: (3)

Well tonight the O F*** moment happened for me. Well let me go back a little. Last year I never had a problem with a sticky or slow clutch or anything. Until this spring I got it on the dyno and when it gets off the clutch just sticks to the floor until it cooled down then it was fine. Now over the summer it kept feeling like the car just didn't have it all up top like it usually does. Also when I got on it a lot in first and second I would get a sticky clutch. I changed the fluid and that helped some.

Now tonight I we were coming home from Canton and I had been driving on the interstate for about thirty minutes so the trans was completely warm. Well I got off the interstate and drove normally through first and second then I went to get on it in third just to get up to 60 MPH, well it felt like it held for a little then the car just stopped speeding up as fast as it was. So I put it in a higher gear and it was fine to drive. The next stop sign I got to I put it in first and once the clutch pedal was fully out I went about 3/4 throttle and as soon as the car was between 2500 and 3000 RPMs it just fell on its face. But again when driving at lower RPMs it was fine.

So when leaving the ladys house tonight I decided to do a little more testing. On a warm motor and cool trans first gear held all the way up to 5000 RPMs So I put it in 5th and 6th gear and when opening the throttle the clutch held just fine. Now after driving 20 minutes home I got on it one more time in 4th and at about 3200 RPMs the car felt like it just lost power. It kept gaining speed but you could definitely feel the power wasn't being transmitted like it should be. Also during the end of summer here the clutch felt pretty soft.

So does this sound like a clutch problem? I thought it does but let me know. Also I need to know what all I need to but. I'll be doing the swap myself. I would like to know what you guys recommend for the different parts. I need to know what:

Clutch?
Master Cylinder?
Slave Cylinder?
Flywheel?

Just let me know. Also a place to pick up a mity vac would be nice. And any other pointers you guys have for the swap, let me know.

Thanks

A. Raber

Matt@SNLPerformance

iTrader: (1)

IF you are still on your stock clutch, I think it would be time for a new one.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Your discription sounds like clutch slip to me! How many miles are on the unit? Have you noticed any fluid leaks at all? What does the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir look like? Is it dark or discolored? Let me know and I will be happy to assist you with more info. Thanks!

araber89

iTrader: (3)

Well... It is the stock clutch with 90,xxx miles. I believe it is stock. Or so I was told. I did change the fluid after the dyno runs. It came out completely black. I changed that out using the turkey baster method to take out and add more back in. I haven't noticed fluid leaks from that area. I did notice some from the power steering rack. But I am sure that that has nothing to do with this

Also I just was out driving the car to do more research on the problem. Again once it was warm I noticed the problem. In third it seemed fine again until about 3000 RPMs. At this point it basically just stopped speeding up. It held the RPMs where they were but never gained more speed. Then I did it in first, I got on it again about 3/4 throttle, and at about 2700 RPMs it just let loose. The car stopped speeding up and the RPMs shot up. As soon as I let off you could feel the clutch grab again. Like it grabbed hard. So what does the doctors of LS1tech have to say Thanks for the help

araber89

iTrader: (3)

O ya and it passes the rev test. If that makes a difference

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Your clutch is def on the outs. You could try a full fluid swap and get some more time out of it but its on borrowed time.

Given the year of the car this is what I recommend and it is a 100% surefire way to fix....

Brand new 2002 GM Slave
Tick perf. Adj master Cyl
GM Pilot Bearing
DOT4 Fluid

Clutch Assembly- Now this is a sticking point with me. Always check with Sponsors as they pay for that right to be recommended. I personally went with Textrailia OZ-700 as the car is heavy and makes 400 rwhp and will get a 100-150 shot sometime later and from my personal exp and observance is that some clutches do not like slipping often cannot handle an real margin of error.

If the car is bolt ons or may get a cam, do a LS7 or something in that range. Do a search and you will see other inputs.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Well if in need of a clutch, check out my link in my sig, as I am a dealer for Monster Clutches.

Symptons you are experiencing def. sound like clutch slippage.


Give me a PM/email or phone call, and let me know your intended use and power levels you are at (or are gonna be at) and we can recommend a level clutch for you.

Thanks

araber89

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Gen414. I was actually checking out Monster clutches. I really like what they offer. A few questions though. Basically Whats the difference between the level 1 and 1.5 besides the price? Also I was thinking of the level 2 so it cover me for all future mods. How much heavier is the pedal between a lvl 1 and 2? And finally what type of slave comes with the clutch? A do I need to upgrade the MC?

FMS_FTW

Clutch: Monster Stage 2 or 3
Master Cylinder: Tick Adjustable
Slave Cylinder: New GM Slave Cylinder
Flywheel: Whatever Steve and/or Derrick recommend



Let us know what you go with

araber89

iTrader: (3)

Ok I need to know what the deal is with this adjustable MC from Tick. Its not a cheap part. But its like everyone says to get one. What makes this so great? Why not just buy another non adjustable one or keep the stock one? I never had a problem with gears being block out at WOT. I don't know maybe it would just make for easier shifting

araber89

iTrader: (3)

I'm bringing this one back up to the top to find out what is so great about the Tick Adjustable MC? Also a good place to buy a Mity Vac?

SladeX

I swapped a 2 year old 50k mile master for a tick master. Difference is night and day.

The stock master was the cause of all my stuck pedal problems. While it always felt solid, held vacuum when mityvaced and drove fine in dd situations, on consecutive shifts at high rpm it would stick. It was too late for the clutch though, glazed the few spots on a ls7 that could have done 150k without breaking a sweat.

silverM6TA

iTrader: (5)

Its almost time for me to get a clutch as well. Im interested in seeing what you go with and hearing about the master cylinder too. keep us posted!